Tablesaw blade not cuting right?

ricknwood · Post by **ricknwood** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 1:25 pm

I'm an Academy instructor and am asked this question often.The other owners have offered you some good advise but I might add a few. First, make sure you are using a 3/32" blade. The difference between a 1/8" blade and a 3/32" blade is exceptionally important for us Shopsmith owners as our headstock motor at 1 1/8 hp is much smaller that say a unisaw at 3 hp. Engineers say that the difference the smaller kerf makes will make the motor seem as if it has 1/3 more hp. That's significant! Second, make sure you have a 20 amp circuit as suggested and if you are pulling through an extension cord, make sure it is a large gauge. Also use the shortest cord possible. Your 20 amp circuit should be designated for shopsmith only. Do not have your over head lights or garage door opener on the same circuit as your machine will shut down as you over load it. Third, use Top -Cote made by Bostik. This can be sprayed on each side of your blade while the machine is running. This cuts down the friction. Forth, make sure your table is not raked into or away from the blade. This information is covered in the Help Kit. And forth, after you have found that your table is aliened correctly, make sure your fence is parrell to your miter track on the table top. Fifth, if your blade gets gumed up, use Simply Green as recomended to clean the pitch. And last but not least, COME TO A TRAVELING ACADEMY!!!!!!!!! You can find our schedule online under education. Hope this helps you. Happy Trails Fellow Woodworker,
PURA VIDA Rick

scottss · Post by **scottss** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 3:39 pm

Remember that home depot is just selling the blades they aren't making them and they are not there own brand. You can find them at woodwoking stores and hardware stores even on the web. If you have a problem with them you can take it back.

Unregistered · Post by **Unregistered** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 4:37 pm

Something that happens on all saws when ripping long stock is the board will twist as it gets near the end. If you are useing an outfeed stand try adjusting it and make sure it is not causing the twist. As the board extends over the end of the table the more weight hanging off the end and more difficult to keep flat on the table. Like wise you blade should not extend more than 3/16" to 1/4" above the top of the board. You can also try ripping 1/2 way and then flip the board and finish the cut. I use this system a lot as as it keep the weight on my end and give me more control.

Good luck
Joe Mohnike

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Thu Oct 12, 2006 12:36 am

ricknwood wrote:I'm an Academy instructor and am asked this question often.The other owners have offered you some good advise but I might add a few. First, make sure you are using a 3/32" blade. The difference between a 1/8" blade and a 3/32" blade is exceptionally important for us Shopsmith owners as our headstock motor at 1 1/8 hp is much smaller that say a unisaw at 3 hp. Engineers say that the difference the smaller kerf makes will make the motor seem as if it has 1/3 more hp. That's significant! Second, make sure you have a 20 amp circuit as suggested and if you are pulling through an extension cord, make sure it is a large gauge. Also use the shortest cord possible. Your 20 amp circuit should be designated for shopsmith only. Do not have your over head lights or garage door opener on the same circuit as your machine will shut down as you over load it. Third, use Top -Cote made by Bostik. This can be sprayed on each side of your blade while the machine is running. This cuts down the friction. Forth, make sure your table is not raked into or away from the blade. This information is covered in the Help Kit. And forth, after you have found that your table is aliened correctly, make sure your fence is parrell to your miter track on the table top. Fifth, if your blade gets gumed up, use Simply Green as recomended to clean the pitch. And last but not least, COME TO A TRAVELING ACADEMY!!!!!!!!! You can find our schedule online under education. Hope this helps you. Happy Trails Fellow Woodworker,
PURA VIDA Rick

Rick
What blade do you recommend? I thought with the thinner blades you had problems with blade bending and twist. I know SS make a thin kerf blade but I thought the saleing point on the 1 1/4 bore was the more support to prevent blade flex which I would think a thin kerf blade would neutralize.
Ed

marinegunny · Post by **marinegunny** » Wed Dec 20, 2006 6:04 pm

[quote="harvey101871"]I bought my Shopsmith just last February]

Saw blade that came with your Shopsmith..clean it, sharpen it and go for the wood. Something about a SAW BLADE. I too have a saw blade that needs to be replaced. My saw blade came with my Shopsmith Mark V in 1975. YES in 1975 I brought the Shopsmith. Today I order my first saw blade. I have used this saw blade for over 30 years, that is wright over 30 years. I can not say anything bad about the Shopsmith saw blades. Keep the Shopsmith clean and in good working order and you will never have a problem. John

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Dec 20, 2006 7:18 pm

I just had problems that may be similar to yours and that were eventually cured by getting a sharp saw blade.

But before I would suggest the same, I would recommend that if you haven't done so recently that you do a complete alignment of your Shopsmith, paying particular attention to those alignments involving the Main Table, Rip Fence and Mitre Gauge.

I would then clean all your blades.

Now check for cutting quality and ease. If your blades are clean and the table is aligned and it still doesn't cut - buy a new blade.

Yes, good primary power is important (critical) but are you not using the same power that has previously worked fine?

Now a question for Rick:

Shopsmith offers 1/8" blades in their catalog; in fact, the only thin kerf (3/32") blades they offer are carbide tipped. Is it the thin kerf or the carbide tip that makes the thin kerf better?

htz308 · Post by **htz308** » Sun Dec 24, 2006 11:12 am

All good advice, but it doesn't matter if you have a $100 saw blade and your table and fence are perfectly aligned if the edge of the lumber you are cutting isn't jointed perfectly straight and true. If there's any curve to it, it's going to curve along the fence and bind against the blade. And construction grade lumber never has a straight edge.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Dec 24, 2006 12:05 pm

This post is so profound.

We (at least I) so often overlook the obvious. It was stated in the very beginning of this thread that the TS was being used primarily to cut construction grade lumber.

I immediately related this basic problem (saw bogging down) to my most recent experiences which have been associated with a shop (and its primary user) that has sat idle for months on end. Not necessarily a valid comparison.

Yes, we must all be aware that if we put that saw blade in a bind (no matter what the cause) the blade is going to perform abnormally and "unsafely" I might add. This is particularly true of table saws that are not driven by high horsepower motors.

___________________
Making Sawdust Safely

twig/al · Post by **twig/al** » Mon Dec 25, 2006 4:37 am

Just a quick way to check for the problem. Cut a small piece of plywood that has a straight edge. If it cuts the plywood fine, it is the lumber. If not, it's probally the blade or binding. But you should be able to tell by looking at the cut edge. Just a thought

twig/al · Post by **twig/al** » Mon Dec 25, 2006 4:42 am

Try cutting a piece of plywood that has a straight edge. If it cuts clean, it is the lumber. If it still doesn't cut correctly, look at the cut edge and you should be able to tell if it is binding or a dull blade. Just an idea from a ol' country boy,, lol...

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