Tablesaw blade not cuting right?

[harvey101871]

I bought my Shopsmith just last February;and I like it alot. Unfortunately, I'm still in the process of setting up my wood working shop. I recently built a three car garage and my shop is the third stall that is soon to be petetioned off to help reduce sawdust on the vehicles. Since I receive my shopsmith I have only been able to do small projects. Since all I have to work with is my Shopsmith and a Craftsman mitre saw. I have mostly been using them to cut down scrap wood that I use for firewood.
Okay, here is my problem... The other day I was trying to rip cut construction grade 2 inch x 10 inch x 8 feet boards to use as concrete forms for steps. And my saw blade ( which is the factory combo blade that came with my Shopsmith) was acting very sluggish and not wanting to cut easily through the boards and it even started smoking some towards the end!?
I had my neighbor come look at it and he said the blade (which is a carbiide tip blade) still felt and looked sharp but that it might have gummed up or pitch ( I think he called it) built up on the blade. Someone mentioned something about soaking the blade in a solution to remove the film or pitch. But I thought I better ask the experts. Especially since I'm just getting started as a woodworker.
Any help solving this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.

An inexperience fellow woodworker.

[Bruce]

Pine has a lot of pitch in it which will build up on a blade very quickly. There are commercial pitch removers you can get, but many woodworkers use oven cleaner. Whatever you use, use it in a well ventilated location and where rubber gloves because all of these cleaners contain caustic chemicals.

Another thing to consider is whether your SS is getting enough current to run at it's maximum power. If you use an extension cord, use the shortest one possible that is at least a 12 gauge wire. Also, be sure you are plugged in to a 20 amp circuit.

Are the 2x10's you're cutting straight? If they aren't, the kerf may be closing up and binding the blade as you cut.

Lastly, invest in a good quality thin-kerf carbide blade for cutting 2-by stock. The SS is a little underpowered for cutting thick stock with a standard 1/8 inch blade, but you'll be amazed at what a thin-kerf blade will do for it's power.

[Unregistered]

I agree with batg4 but I'd go for the new thin kerf blade first. I used SS blades for years and when I switched to a Forrest WWII, I was amazed at the difference. It was the single most important change I've made to my SS in 22 years.

And I'm one of those woodworkers who buys real blade clearner. I've tried Simple Green and over clearner and have not found them effective or easy to use. Rockler makes a decent blade cleaner but my favorite is Empire. I got mine at Woodcraft.

[chip]

Saw blades are a science unto themselves. Good ones are not cheap. SS blades are good for only one thing...hanging on the wall. First thing I did when I bought my second SS is ordered the 5/8 saw arbor and then spent the money to buy better blades. Hardware stores are carrying a better selection these days as we woodworkers are increasing in numbers. As for cleaning the blade what I do is reach for the turpintine and an old tooth brush. This has worked for me for many years. As for burning the wood when cutting. Saw may be running to slow or the fence is not parallel at the front and rear (outfeed). this will bind the wood and cause burning. When ripping the board watch the kerf on the outfeed end, if it is pinching together you may have to adjust the outfeed end of the fence to be offset away from the blade just a bit and that should releive the problem. Oh, I do use the SS blade when cutting junk wood. Don't want to use my better blades.

[robg]

How much, approximately, do these other saw blades cost? Just curious - I haven't had any trouble with the combo blade yet.

[Bruce]

You can get the Forrest WWII for $80.25 at this site. That's about the cheapest I have found it. Also, they will bore the arbor to 1 1/4" for a small fee if you don't have a 5/8" arbor. If you go with the 5/8" arbor, they recommend a stiffener. I have one bored to 1 1/4" and don't see a need for the stiffener.

[billr64]

I spent less than $100.00 to have the WWII shipped to Texas that included the boaring charge.

[ssj1]

has anyone any experience with the Sistimatic blades?

[scottss]

Check out the porter cable razor its variable spaced teeth. I use it for ripping and crosscutting price is under $30 at home depot. Also if you can find the B&D Piranha its priced at under $20. I use it in my chop saw and cut oak and maple with no problems. I have bought expensive blades and my experience is they aren't any better than the cheap ones.

[robg]

Wow. I don't have experience with Home Depot saw blades, but I have found most of their tools to be sub-par. They work, but they are not high grade tools. It's not like harbor freight (where you feel lucky if the tool works a second time, but they are so cheap that's ok), but it's not snap on, for example, either.