Replicate cut

curiousgeorge · Post by **curiousgeorge** » Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:26 am

Why not pre-drill holes at the end of the cuts to help eliminate some of the blade slant/angle? Then just clean up the sides of the drilled portion with a file. Or, drill holes the entire length of the cut and then just use the saw blade to clean it up?

anmius · Post by **anmius** » Sat Oct 06, 2012 10:01 am

Why not set the board on edge and run it across the blade which is set to a height that is the depth of the slots? No other finish work required.

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sat Oct 06, 2012 11:36 am

anmius wrote:Why not set the board on edge and run it across the blade which is set to a height that is the depth of the slots? No other finish work required.

Read post #'s 3 and 5.

And I like George's idea with the drill (Ed had the same idea, but for use with the bandsaw), but just for the end-of-cut location; drilling holes full length in each of those slot locations wood sure be a lot of work!!!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Oct 06, 2012 1:06 pm

a1gutterman wrote:Read post #'s 3 and 5. And I like George's idea with the drill, but just for the end-of-cut location] drilling holes full length in each of those slot locations wood sure be a lot of work[/B]!!!

A lot less 'work' than using a coping saw!

To create equal spacing,slot width, a jig similar to a box joint jig(angled pin).

What is critical re 50 degrees?

I think I would use a router bit to create the slots and a jig to position the workpiece flat to the table and space the slots. Repeat passes to get full depth(and slot width if small bit used).

P. S. Good to see ya back A1!!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Oct 06, 2012 1:07 pm

[quote="a1gutterman"]Read post #'s 3 and 5.

And I like George's idea with the drill (Ed had the same idea, but for use with the bandsaw), but just for the end-of-cut location]

Just remember that the blade cuts deeper on the bottom than it does on the top. The 3/8" hole is not quite enough to protect from that.

If appearance on the bottom side does not matter, there is nothing to worry about.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Oct 06, 2012 1:09 pm

anmius wrote:Why not set the board on edge and run it across the blade which is set to a height that is the depth of the slots? No other finish work required.

That was my first thought....but think about that for a minute. With the table tilted, what is the maximum depth of cut. Besides that, the table does not tilt to 50°s.

marcp1956 · Post by **marcp1956** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:47 am

I don't know if the depth would be enough, but you can go above 50 degrees by putting a spacer on the uphill side of the blade. Use whatever thickness of board you need attached to a strip that goes in the miter slot. As long as what you are cutting won't bend it should work.

dickg1 · Post by **dickg1** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 2:23 pm

marcp1956 wrote:I don't know if the depth would be enough, but you can go above 50 degrees by putting a spacer on the uphill side of the blade. Use whatever thickness of board you need attached to a strip that goes in the miter slot. As long as what you are cutting won't bend it should work.

That would work for the uphill side, but how do you correct for the 45 degrees on the downhill blade side?
Dick

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 3:02 pm

dickg1 wrote:That would work for the uphill side, but how do you correct for the 45 degrees on the downhill blade side?
Dick

You don't correct on the down-blade side.

Unfortunately this spacer idea will only work if the workpiece always extends off the downhill side of the table. And - in order to make the first cut the uphill side must extend past the blade far enough to rest on the spacer. So - in order to use this method your workpiece must be quite a bit longer than the desired finished length.

It will work if the spacer is clamped to an extension table on the uphill blade side. If the tail end of the workpiece ever passes the bottom edge of the saw table, the angle will change.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 4:37 pm

charlese wrote:You don't correct on the down-blade side.

Unfortunately this spacer idea will only work if the workpiece always extends off the downhill side of the table. And - in order to make the first cut the uphill side must extend past the blade far enough to rest on the spacer. So - in order to use this method your workpiece must be quite a bit longer than the desired finished length.

It will work if the spacer is clamped to an extension table on the uphill blade side. If the tail end of the workpiece ever passes the bottom edge of the saw table, the angle will change.

Adding a spacer exacerbates the lack of cut depth. Maybe a Mark VII would help.

A temporary extension to the workpiece will solve the inadequate length. Depending upon the closeness of the slots to the 'upper' end, ya might have to extend that end also.