On my "new" 10e I loosened up the allen screw on the adaptor above the drill chuck and tried to get it to slide off the shaft - taking the drill chuck with it. I even tapped it lightly with a hammer. Nothing. Am I missing something that is holding the adaptor/chuck in place? Any suggestions of how to get it off?
Also, how is the drill chuck held in place on the adaptor - is that just a press fit or is there some allen screw or key that holds the drill chuck to the adaptor?
Thanks
Can't Get Drill Chuck off 10e - Advice Please
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pieceseeker
- Gold Member
- Posts: 370
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2013 12:13 pm
- Location: Lawrenceville, Georgia
If there is signs of rust, try some PB Blaster or other penetrant oil. Not familiar with the 10e , so not sure if it's attached differently from a MarkV headstock.
Open up the jaws all the way on the chuck, there may be a screw inside holding it to the adapter.
I'm sure others will chime in today on that problem.
Open up the jaws all the way on the chuck, there may be a screw inside holding it to the adapter.
I'm sure others will chime in today on that problem.
" I cut it twice and it's still too short"
2006 Mark 520, 1983 Mark V model 500(soon to be a shorty)/Power Stand mounted Planer/Jointer/Belt Sander/Band Saw/Jigsaw on pwr stand/Scroll saw/Strip Sander/Power Station/Speed Reducer/Increaser/2 Nova chucks.... 12" DeWalt sliding compound mitre saw, 10" Delta tabletop saw, Bosch router and jig saw, Makita circular saw, Graco V-COMP HVLP, Festool CT-26 E Hepa
2006 Mark 520, 1983 Mark V model 500(soon to be a shorty)/Power Stand mounted Planer/Jointer/Belt Sander/Band Saw/Jigsaw on pwr stand/Scroll saw/Strip Sander/Power Station/Speed Reducer/Increaser/2 Nova chucks.... 12" DeWalt sliding compound mitre saw, 10" Delta tabletop saw, Bosch router and jig saw, Makita circular saw, Graco V-COMP HVLP, Festool CT-26 E Hepa
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fredsheldon
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1175
- Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:31 pm
- Location: The Woodlands, Texas
My 10ER drill chuck is the same as my V. I would remove the screw and fill the hole with PB Blaster and every other type of product you can find and let it soak for a couple of hours. Spray around the shaft where it meets the base of the chuck as well and let it leach into the recess. I'm sure it's just rusted on. Unless the 10E is different than the 10ER.
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
If your chuck is the usual one supplied, it has a 5/8" hole in it and just slides on the 10ER shaft and is held on by the set screw. There is no "adapter".
It would look like this:
[ATTACH]22050[/ATTACH]
I have also seen non Shopsmith chucks screwed on an adapter like on the left in this pic:
[ATTACH]22051[/ATTACH]
Once the setscrew(s) removed you can put penetrating oil in the hole and both types should come off eventually if rusted in place.
It would look like this:
[ATTACH]22050[/ATTACH]
I have also seen non Shopsmith chucks screwed on an adapter like on the left in this pic:
[ATTACH]22051[/ATTACH]
Once the setscrew(s) removed you can put penetrating oil in the hole and both types should come off eventually if rusted in place.
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Peter
a 510,a Mini, dedicated SS drillpress, SS spt's, home made SS belt grinder, SS piston air system, Southbend 10k lathe, mill/drill, Taig
a 510,a Mini, dedicated SS drillpress, SS spt's, home made SS belt grinder, SS piston air system, Southbend 10k lathe, mill/drill, Taig
By the way, (re the "adapter above the drill chuck") if you are looking at the ring pointed at by the red arrow in this photo:
[ATTACH]22052[/ATTACH]
It is not an adapter or part of the chuck. It retains the spindle bearings and is not removed.
[ATTACH]22052[/ATTACH]
It is not an adapter or part of the chuck. It retains the spindle bearings and is not removed.
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Peter
a 510,a Mini, dedicated SS drillpress, SS spt's, home made SS belt grinder, SS piston air system, Southbend 10k lathe, mill/drill, Taig
a 510,a Mini, dedicated SS drillpress, SS spt's, home made SS belt grinder, SS piston air system, Southbend 10k lathe, mill/drill, Taig
All good advice so far. The 10E/ER spindle and drill chuck is exactly like the Mark V/5/VII/7 etc. Unless it's a one off thing done by a previous owner. In that case, we would need pictures. Actually pictures, even with standard equipment would help.
I agree with others that it's either rusted on, or there's a burr from the set screw. Either way it's going to take a little time, patience, persuasion, and chemicals.
It it's not too rusted, try some penetrating oil. I've had a lot of luck with Kroil but others haven't. I have had no luck with PB Blaster, but others have. Whichever penetrating oil you try, take the set screw all the way out and fill that hole with it. If it seeps out, even slowly you're not in too bad shape.
If it's very rusted, get some Evapo-Rust (Harbor Freight carries it, Lowes used to, and it might be available elsewhere). You have to submerge the rusted part in the Evapo-Rust, so situate the headstock so the quill is pointing down (like in drill press mode), cut off the top of a plastic water bottle, put the Evapo-Rust in it, and prop everything up so the drill chuck is submerged in the Evapo-Rust. Let it sit for an hour or so up to overnight if it is significantly rusted. Rinse it off, then try your penetrating oil.
If it's a burr, then hopefully you can get the chuck moving a little. You may be able to rotate the chuck slightly until it stops, then rotate it the other way until it stops again. If that's the case, use your penetrating oil and keep working at it.
I agree with others that it's either rusted on, or there's a burr from the set screw. Either way it's going to take a little time, patience, persuasion, and chemicals.
It it's not too rusted, try some penetrating oil. I've had a lot of luck with Kroil but others haven't. I have had no luck with PB Blaster, but others have. Whichever penetrating oil you try, take the set screw all the way out and fill that hole with it. If it seeps out, even slowly you're not in too bad shape.
If it's very rusted, get some Evapo-Rust (Harbor Freight carries it, Lowes used to, and it might be available elsewhere). You have to submerge the rusted part in the Evapo-Rust, so situate the headstock so the quill is pointing down (like in drill press mode), cut off the top of a plastic water bottle, put the Evapo-Rust in it, and prop everything up so the drill chuck is submerged in the Evapo-Rust. Let it sit for an hour or so up to overnight if it is significantly rusted. Rinse it off, then try your penetrating oil.
If it's a burr, then hopefully you can get the chuck moving a little. You may be able to rotate the chuck slightly until it stops, then rotate it the other way until it stops again. If that's the case, use your penetrating oil and keep working at it.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
The only thing I can add to the advice is. Put the HAMMER AWAY.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34642
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
beeg wrote:The only thing I can add to the advice is. Put the HAMMER AWAY.
And the pipe wrench!:D
Pix will help us help you!;) It eliminates us guessing what you have!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Got it!
I WD40ed and LiquidWrenched in the allen keyhole. After about an hour it slowly moved and then pulled off. The pix helped since I did not know what was under it. Looks like a Jacobs 33b chuck or or something like that may made in Conn.?
beeg wrote:The only thing I can add to the advice is. Put the HAMMER AWAY.
Although I can't remember ever disagreeing with beeg before, I do recognize a small ball pein hammer a help in cases like this. The metal to metal vibration from a tap does loosen stuck objects. Same reasoning as an impact hammer. but in this case, a tap with the hammer is enough we don't want to damage the spindle or the chuck.
Try this again after the soaking recommended above.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA