GeorgeM
Hi
Now, a question regarding Nick's videos. I have noticed that any time Nick puts on the Johnson's paste wax, he just puts it on and never allows time for it to dry. I would think that process allows for a buildup of wax and sawdust. I always let it dry and then buff it off. What do you folks do?
Thanks
GeorgeM
JPG
Letting it 'dry' would allow for a thicker coat prior to polishing. However the more you polish, the less remains(the coat gets thinner).
I think for storage, apply and polish only when taken out to use. Otherwise apply and polish. The solvents will dissolve the existing coat.
I like to let it 'dry' for a minute or two and minimally 'polish'.
charlese
My experience is that time makes no difference. A slick surface is the result of no time drying and also hours drying. All I ever wanted from the wax is a slick surface (also tubes and legs and headstock).
Applying and wiping right away needs no buffing, but works to make slick. Applying and waiting needs buffing and takes more time. This may leave a little more wax on the surface, but can't tell any difference between the two methods for slickness.
I have done both methods/
Bruce
I treat it like paste car wax. Let it dry to a haze, then buff.
reible
Bruce wroteI treat it like paste car wax. Let it dry to a haze, then buff.
That makes two of us.
Ed
jsburger
reible wroteBruce wroteI treat it like paste car wax. Let it dry to a haze, then buff.
That makes two of us.
Ed
And now three.
GeorgeM
jsburger wrotereible wroteBruce wroteI treat it like paste car wax. Let it dry to a haze, then buff.
That makes two of us.
Ed
And now three.
And since I started this thread, that makes 4!
GeorgeM
oldiron
I've tested liquid car wax which the directions specify allowing the wax to lightly haze over on my truck. I followed the directions as directed and also tried rubbing on and immediately wiping back off.
Not sure of any technical results however, When I applied water to the two sections, They appeared to bead and shed water exactly the same.
The most important thing here is the fact, We're discussing something I wish more folks would engage in. Protecting our equipment!!!!
Mike
garys
I'm not the worrying kind of guy. I put some on when things don't move smoothly anymore.
swampgator
I may be all wet here, but some years ago, there were posts on here to not apply car wax on the tables. The posts conveyed that some of the chemicals would transfer from the table to the wood and interfere with finishing of the wood.
ERLover
I cant remember why, bad/busy day with mom, but car waxes have silicone in them, I cant remember why not good on machinery.
reubenjames
Nick Engler mentions in a sawdust session something about car wax. I think he said it dried hard and was protective but not much of a lubricant. That being said, I use car wax with high carnauba content on Crokinole boards precisely because it does dry to form a hard barrier and *does* make the surface slick for the discs to slide on. Seems like it would do the same here. The chemical thing might still be a concern I guess, if that is true.
BuckeyeDennis
The problem with using silicone-based wax on woodworking machinery is that some of the silicone can get rubbed off onto your workpieces. This can cause problems with finishing them. Fisheye, in particular.
That said, I used car wax on the stand of my Power Station when I was rehabbing it. I figured that my workpieces should never touch the stand, and the car wax worked great for sprucing up the paint.
