original 10er vs revised 10er
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original 10er vs revised 10er
ok so here i go again lol. for those who are aware of my post about the jointer you are aware that i got more than the jointer unit. i was out in the garage last night working on some thing on my original SS, i noticed some differences between the headstocks. So i called skip today and he cleared it up, i have an original 10er and a revisioned 10er. which one should i keep and use, both are in great working condition and cosmetically similar?
- dusty
- Platinum Member
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Re: original 10er vs revised 10er
I'm not a 10ER fan but if I had to make that decision I would keep the original (depending a lot on condition).
I do hope that you poised this question to skip. He would be best able to give you as reliable answer.
I do hope that you poised this question to skip. He would be best able to give you as reliable answer.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Re: original 10er vs revised 10er
Keep both. You may regret in if you get rid of one. I have 2. One is a dedicated drill press and the other a dedicated lathe. The vertical drill press mode takes very little space. If space is an issue, you could always take it apart, and save parts for extras or replacements for the one you continue to use. Just my opinion.
Re: original 10er vs revised 10er
I assume you are talking about the quill and head stock locks. There were slight changes in the pinion shaft and its components also. None of these changes make a significant difference in the machines. As has been suggested, I would keep them both.bandmn wrote:ok so here i go again lol. for those who are aware of my post about the jointer you are aware that i got more than the jointer unit. i was out in the garage last night working on some thing on my original SS, i noticed some differences between the headstocks. So i called skip today and he cleared it up, i have an original 10er and a revisioned 10er. which one should i keep and use, both are in great working condition and cosmetically similar?
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
- ChrisNeilan
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Re: original 10er vs revised 10er
They don't sell for much, so I would keep both. If one is in the way, break it down and store it somewhere (attic?). you might need it later...
Chris Neilan
Shopsmith Mark 7, Shopsmith Mark V 1982, shortened, Shopsmith 10 ER; Craftsman table saw (1964); Powermatic 3520B lathe
Shopsmith Mark 7, Shopsmith Mark V 1982, shortened, Shopsmith 10 ER; Craftsman table saw (1964); Powermatic 3520B lathe
Re: original 10er vs revised 10er
Yes i am along with the table carriage locks. I am thinking about keeping both.jsburger wrote:I assume you are talking about the quill and head stock locks. There were slight changes in the pinion shaft and its components also. None of these changes make a significant difference in the machines. As has been suggested, I would keep them both.bandmn wrote:ok so here i go again lol. for those who are aware of my post about the jointer you are aware that i got more than the jointer unit. i was out in the garage last night working on some thing on my original SS, i noticed some differences between the headstocks. So i called skip today and he cleared it up, i have an original 10er and a revisioned 10er. which one should i keep and use, both are in great working condition and cosmetically similar?
Re: original 10er vs revised 10er
You will not regret keeping both since you already have them.bandmn wrote:Yes i am along with the table carriage locks. I am thinking about keeping both.jsburger wrote:I assume you are talking about the quill and head stock locks. There were slight changes in the pinion shaft and its components also. None of these changes make a significant difference in the machines. As has been suggested, I would keep them both.bandmn wrote:ok so here i go again lol. for those who are aware of my post about the jointer you are aware that i got more than the jointer unit. i was out in the garage last night working on some thing on my original SS, i noticed some differences between the headstocks. So i called skip today and he cleared it up, i have an original 10er and a revisioned 10er. which one should i keep and use, both are in great working condition and cosmetically similar?
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
- rjent
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2121
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:00 pm
- Location: Hot Springs, New Mexico
Re: original 10er vs revised 10er
Another vote for keeping it!
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
Re: original 10er vs revised 10er
Keep both! The only thing better than having a Shopsmith is having multiple Shopsmiths!
Also, I can't keep myself from clarifying... The original was the Model 10E (not ER). The E stood for Experimental. I don't remember (if I ever knew) why it was Model 10. When they introduced the improvements, it changed to Model 10ER (Experimental Revised). The R or E prefix to the serial number indicates the factory that it was made in (San Francisco or Cleveland respectively). If the serial number prefix is "ER" it's one of the rare handful of machines that started life as a Model 10E but received a factory upgrade to a Model 10ER before being shipped out.
Also, I can't keep myself from clarifying... The original was the Model 10E (not ER). The E stood for Experimental. I don't remember (if I ever knew) why it was Model 10. When they introduced the improvements, it changed to Model 10ER (Experimental Revised). The R or E prefix to the serial number indicates the factory that it was made in (San Francisco or Cleveland respectively). If the serial number prefix is "ER" it's one of the rare handful of machines that started life as a Model 10E but received a factory upgrade to a Model 10ER before being shipped out.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Re: original 10er vs revised 10er
I have 2 10er's 1 is the original version of the 10er and the other is version 2 of the 10er from the way i understand it.heathicus wrote:Keep both! The only thing better than having a Shopsmith is having multiple Shopsmiths!
Also, I can't keep myself from clarifying... The original was the Model 10E (not ER). The E stood for Experimental. I don't remember (if I ever knew) why it was Model 10. When they introduced the improvements, it changed to Model 10ER (Experimental Revised). The R or E prefix to the serial number indicates the factory that it was made in (San Francisco or Cleveland respectively). If the serial number prefix is "ER" it's one of the rare handful of machines that started life as a Model 10E but received a factory upgrade to a Model 10ER before being shipped out.