Shopsmith Forums

chapmanruss wrote:While looking over the Mark 2 I noticed an interesting thing about what is the Headrest/Tie Bar which in the case of the Mark 2 is called Base and Tie. Something about it's design looks familiar.Mark 2 Headrest Assembly - Base and Tie r.jpgDoes the Mark 7 come to mind? It looks like if you change the Base and Arm to the Base and Tie, move the Headrest end in 3-1/2" like the base end and cut off 3-1/2" from the Way Tubes you would have a Double Tilt Mark 2.

chapmanruss wrote:John asked

The one or two pictures of the Model 10 lower guard I have ever seen looked like cast iron as I remember. Is the MK 2 lower guard the same? Also, why do you say it will work with the Model 10 upper guard? The upper guard does no interfere with anything under the table.

The Model 10 Lower Guard I have is cast Aluminum I believe. Cast Iron would be heavier for the mass in the guard. Interesting the only reference I have for the Model 10 Lower Blade Guard is the November 19, 1951 Part Number conversion table. There are no pictures or part drawings on that table. I have not seen it listed in a catalog until the February 15, 1958 accessory catalog for the Mark 5 and Mark 2. It does not have a picture or drawing of it there either. Below is the Model 10 Lower Blade Guard I have which would be part number 162-1X or 12 370.
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162-1X - 12 370 I c.jpg
I painted it but it was gray when I received it.

As for using the Model 10 Upper Saw Guard it works because there is a threaded hole just like the Model 10's have on the back edge of the table to attach the splitter to. Using the Lower Guard listed in the 1958 catalog, if it is the same Model 10 Lower Guard, requires an independently mounted upper guard. Again there in no picture or drawing of the upper guard in the catalog. The only guard shown is the set for the Mark 5 which is a 9" guard.

If anyone has a catalog or similar source picture of the Model 10 and/or the Mark 2 Lower Saw Guard it would be nice to see.

chapmanruss wrote:For historical purposes it is nice to have the Model 10 lower blade guard but as a practical part to use, it scores pretty low, just above not having anything there. A better Lower Blade Guard that fits the Model 10's is the one for the Mark 5/V shown below and in my earlier post in this thread. Using the Upper and Lower Guards (505627 & 505628) together reduces alignment time if you keep them attached to each other. I would use the 5/8" Arbor with the machined washer next to the base, then the blade, the wide spacer and lastly the nut (see 2nd pic below). This moves the blade closer to the quill and keeps it from hitting the far side of the lower guard. Although, for safety, I use the later Arbor with the keyed washer instead of the original Model 10 version shown without it. You can use just the Lower Blade Guard 505628 with the Model 10 Upper Guard. Either way you add dust collection to your Model 10. even though the Mark 5/V Guard set was made for a 10" blade stay with the 8" blade since that is what the Model 10 Table was designed to use.$matches[2]505628-10ER.jpg

ChrisNeilan wrote:

chapmanruss wrote:For historical purposes it is nice to have the Model 10 lower blade guard but as a practical part to use, it scores pretty low, just above not having anything there. A better Lower Blade Guard that fits the Model 10's is the one for the Mark 5/V shown below and in my earlier post in this thread. Using the Upper and Lower Guards (505627 & 505628) together reduces alignment time if you keep them attached to each other. I would use the 5/8" Arbor with the machined washer next to the base, then the blade, the wide spacer and lastly the nut (see 2nd pic below). This moves the blade closer to the quill and keeps it from hitting the far side of the lower guard. Although, for safety, I use the later Arbor with the keyed washer instead of the original Model 10 version shown without it. You can use just the Lower Blade Guard 505628 with the Model 10 Upper Guard. Either way you add dust collection to your Model 10. even though the Mark 5/V Guard set was made for a 10" blade stay with the 8" blade since that is what the Model 10 Table was designed to use.$matches[2]505628-10ER.jpg

Thanks for posting this. I never would have thought to try that, and I have an old set of guards collecting dust - and not sawdust!