Just bought this green (not teal) scroll saw, powerhead mounted version. Runs great, went through and cleaned lubed everything. Original blade holders work fine but are a bit frustrating & slow to use.
Question: Can I just install 555708 upgraded holders directly on this saw leaving the existing metal hood feet/guards in place or is the 555706 with the extra items and rear tension cam a must-do?
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Last edited by Steele510 on Thu Jan 02, 2020 9:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I have a grey scroll saw that I upgraded the blade holder to the newer configuration. If the picture of the red headed scroll sawer is using your scroll saw then you'll need/want the full kit with the see through cover. The upgraded kit eliminated the rear blade support with a modern holder that is also quicker and easier to use. My used scroll saw didn't come with the blade setting gauge so the upgrade solved all the issues and made the saw work much better.
Here's what I took off and the kit I bought:
parts removed to install the upgrade kit
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Attachments
P1050831.JPG (138 KiB) Viewed 18357 times
1986 510, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, scroll saw, jigsaw and lots of accessories. Shopsmith woodworking bench too!
P89DC wrote:I have a grey scroll saw that I upgraded the blade holder to the newer configuration. If the picture of the red headed scroll sawer is using your scroll saw then you'll need/want the full kit with the see through cover. The upgraded kit eliminated the rear blade support with a modern holder that is also quicker and easier to use. My used scroll saw didn't come with the blade setting gauge so the upgrade solved all the issues and made the saw work much better.
Here's what I took off and the kit I bought:
P1050829.JPG
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I have sent a note to All-in-One to see if Greg can get me a price for 555706, or if it still available at all. I notice on the SS site the link doesn't work. I'm assuming the rear blade support is not well liked in a modern saw (due to heat, or general obstruction, or?)
Not having ever used a scroll saw previously, I thought it best to get the SS positioned where I am comfortable and I also made a DIY cyclone. Vacuum has a new Hepa filter, and to be honest the system is way better than what I expected. Shop looks messy, but its an organized mess. I'm calling it "Santa's Workshop" today He also brought me a new magnifier light so I can see better.
The need for a quicker way to change blades is becoming more obvious to me as I progress on this first project..
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quick tool change would be a dream.jpg (127.01 KiB) Viewed 18299 times
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I went back and looked more closely and I think the full upgrade kit really isn't necessary. The new blade blocks are all you really need (555708). The new hold down design isn't better, it's just lower cost to manufacturer. I would remove the rear blade support and use the existing hold down. Then either cut the "Scroll Saw Arm Hood" down so that it doesn't interfere with the new blade blocks or order the new clear hood (518163). The "Scroll Saw Tension Lever" is very convenient compared to the knob and I might add that to my order (518127).
Some pictures:
Attachments
The Scroll Saw Arm Hood comparison. The old one needs to be cut back to aviod interfering with the blade block.
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Comparision of old and new hold downs. New hold down is simpler but not better.
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The rear blade support can be removed in the old hold down by removing the grub screw.
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1986 510, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, scroll saw, jigsaw and lots of accessories. Shopsmith woodworking bench too!
P89DC wrote:I went back and looked more closely and I think the full upgrade kit really isn't necessary. The new blade blocks are all you really need (555708). The new hold down design isn't better, it's just lower cost to manufacturer. I would remove the rear blade support and use the existing hold down. Then either cut the "Scroll Saw Arm Hood" down so that it doesn't interfere with the new blade blocks or order the new clear hood (518163). The "Scroll Saw Tension Lever" is very convenient compared to the knob and I might add that to my order (518127).
Some pictures:
Fantastic, thanks for the info!
I may remove the rear blade support and cut back the air tube similar to the the shape of the air tube in the kit. Tried using the saw without the air, it is near impossible. Definitely need the air to remove the dust and clear the cutting path. It works great.
He also brought me a new magnifier light so I can see better.