method to lock the spindle

jakcampbell · Post by **jakcampbell** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 5:51 pm

i would like some ideas on how to lock the head spindle. i've been using the lathe and it would help if, when changing out my chucks, to be able to immobilize the spindle. help!

rdubbs · Post by **rdubbs** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 9:20 am

Power Tool Woodworing for Everyone shows how to make an indexing jig. A simpler version could only have one hole on top (and one on the bottom for balance) to use as a lock.

reible · Post by **reible** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 12:31 pm

I did the following but it was not to help with chuck changes (I'm guessing you have some that require threading/un-threading) so I can not say for sure how this would work for that.

I took a piece of 3/4" plywood that was wide enough to sit on the tubes and be about 3" higher then the top auxiliary spindle. Then mounted the 6" dia. face plate on the top auxiliary spindle and held the plywood on the tubes and against the face plate and traced the circle of the faceplate on the plywood. Took the face plate off and set it on the plywood aligning it to the circle I just made (set-screw side up) and marked the holes for mounting. I profiled the plywood to the general shape of the headstock then mounted the faceplate to the plywood.

Now if you need to keep things from turning you slip the faceplate with plywood on the auxiliary spindle and tighten the set-screw...... just remember to take it off before you plug the machine back in....

Ed

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 7:16 pm

Jack -- 10" hand screw, quick n' easy.

[ATTACH]82[/ATTACH]

With all good wishes,

ironworker2134 · Post by **ironworker2134** » Tue Feb 06, 2007 11:52 pm

jakcampbell wrote:i would like some ideas on how to lock the head spindle. i've been using the lathe and it would help if, when changing out my chucks, to be able to immobilize the spindle. help!

There is no way to lock the spindel but you can put your sanding disk on the oppisate end of the spindel to hold it still. Or hold the chuck and turn the sanding disk.

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 12:55 am

I though there was a setscrew to lock the spindle am I mistaken?

Greenvilleguy · Post by **Greenvilleguy** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 9:43 am

Nick,

I love your handscrew solution. I've always preferred to spend my shop time building furniture rather than complicated jigs. Handscrews are very accommodating.

edbandit · Post by **edbandit** » Wed Oct 07, 2020 9:34 pm

I found a very simple way to lock the spindle. Get a nut with a 5/8 ID. ( I had one in my don't throw away drawer. Tap a 5/16 x18 hole in side of the nut. I used a 1inch board for the next step.Make the board 5" x 10". It's oversize but you trim it later. Lay the nut i" from the end of the board and lay the nut on that line and trace around it. Chisel out the inside of the layout. Make sure you center the nut. The oversize board will eliminate splitting during the chiseling. After cleaning out the waste, mark where the tapped hole is and drill from the top with a 1/2" bit for clearance. It's oversize, but leaves good access to the set screw. From the centerline of the bolt, measure 4 3/4" down and use a 1 1/8" hole saw and drill through the board. Now all you have to do is insert the bolt and set screw. Take off the top auxiliary nut , slip the bolt on and tighten the set screw. The bottom hole you drilled will surround the bottom nut and prevent the spindle from turning. Very simple to use and efficient.

I cleaned up the board by trimming and rounding the corners.

db5 · Post by **db5** » Sat Oct 10, 2020 11:19 am

edbandit wrote:I found a very simple way to lock the spindle. Get a nut with a 5/8 ID. ( I had one in my don't throw away drawer. Tap a 5/16 x18 hole in side of the nut. I used a 1inch board for the next step.Make the board 5" x 10". It's oversize but you trim it later. Lay the nut i" from the end of the board and lay the nut on that line and trace around it. Chisel out the inside of the layout. Make sure you center the nut. The oversize board will eliminate splitting during the chiseling. After cleaning out the waste, mark where the tapped hole is and drill from the top with a 1/2" bit for clearance. It's oversize, but leaves good access to the set screw. From the centerline of the bolt, measure 4 3/4" down and use a 1 1/8" hole saw and drill through the board. Now all you have to do is insert the bolt and set screw. Take off the top auxiliary nut , slip the bolt on and tighten the set screw. The bottom hole you drilled will surround the bottom nut and prevent the spindle from turning. Very simple to use and efficient.

I cleaned up the board by trimming and rounding the corners.

One picture of the completed jig to go along with the process would be appreciated.

reible · Post by **reible** » Sat Oct 17, 2020 7:06 pm

Since this resurfaced a short while back I decided to post some pictures of how I hold the shaft if and when needed. Keep in mind that there will be some movement in the quill side. This is not used for locking that side for actual precision projects. I have a way to do that using an indexing jig and that is a total different project and method.

You can find the description as to what I did in a previous post of mine in this thread.

: fs1.jpg (121.3 KiB) Viewed 3773 times

: fs2.jpg (126.52 KiB) Viewed 3773 times

: fs3.jpg (161.76 KiB) Viewed 3773 times

: fs4.jpg (170.25 KiB) Viewed 3773 times

: fs5.jpg (158.27 KiB) Viewed 3773 times

: fs6.jpg (97.84 KiB) Viewed 3773 times

Ed

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