Shaper/Router Set Up

[bgeagle]

I don't understand why I need a router table or a router for that matter when my Mark V (older model) has the shaper? That brings me to ask, How do I set up the Mark V to be an under table router. It seems that one should be able to do this? Can someone explain how it works?

[DLB]

There are four basic features of the Mark 7 that give it an under table routing/shaping capability different from the Mark 5/V:
1) Speed - roughly double the high RPM, but still much lower than a typical router. Normal range for a Shaper though.
2) Reversibility - Not essential obviously, but allows flexibility.
3) Double Tilt Base - Allows the Mark to hinge at the left end putting the headstock below the table. There are several ways to make a double tilt base, all of those I've seen use two Base assemblies and zero Headrests. I've made one that basically copies the SS approach, some of those on line are based on pulling the hinge pin out of one end to allow it to hinge on the other. Both work, I'm sure there are other version or variants.
4) Double Tilt Main Table - Replaces the standard table support tube that has a rack on one side of each tube for adjusting height with one that has a rack on both sides of each tube. The table is put in the 90 degree (drill press) position then removed from the carriage and turned around so that the table 'top' is away from the headstock. If your DT base has the setscrews on top, like the factory version, you don't really need this. You can simply turn the table and carriage around together. With other versions you can still do it, but it is more trouble. Personally, if I made a DT Base out of the older style Base that does not have those setscrews I would add them.

I have not tried this, but if a person wanted to try this out without DT it seems simple. Take the headstock and table carriage off your base and put it all back on in the under table configuration. Put the headstock on first, but with the quill on the left. Then put the carriage on with the table set to 90 degrees but with the 'top' facing away from the quill (not reversed). Be very careful and mindful of router bit rotation in positioning a fence and feeding stock, just as you would if you had DT. Again I have not tried this, there may be something I'm overlooking so be careful.

- David

[SkullsquadronX]

You could just pick up a speed increaser. This will let you do under table routing with out tipping the headstock in either Direction.

[chapmanruss]

The Speed Increaser mentioned above gives any Mark 5/V model the ability to do under table routing and shaping. You do not put the Shopsmith in drill press mode to use it so no heavy lift to be done setting it up. It also increases the speed to 10,000 RPM's doubling the speed of "V" on the Speed Dial. A slower feed rate along with multiple passes for heavy cuts will make routing/shaping work well at that RPM.

[cham-ed]

I've actually had good results with my 10ER as a shaper. I do have the speed changer, so my top speed is 6800 RPM. Not fast as it needs slow feeds. And a little extra sanding perhaps but over all it does work. And at 10,000 RPM I would think it would be a lot better.

[harveydunn]

What is the difference between a shaper and a router?

[jsburger]

What is the difference between a shaper and a router?

A shaper is a dedicated floor mounted tool. The spindle is mounted under the table. It generally uses larger diameter bits than a router for making things like molding.

A router is a hand held device. It generally uses smaller bits and runs at a higher RPM than a shaper because of that. In recent years tables have been developed to mount the hand held router under a table like a shaper.

Shapers are generally more powerful (HP) than routers.