Lathe.....

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Wed Sep 02, 2009 1:45 pm

I have to agree with bettyt44720! There are quite a few turning tools that replicate the iron pipe idea. Those are the ones with round cutters. I think Shopsmith sells one with the lathe duplicator.

When you look at the tool bit mounted into a steel rod like the one posted a week ago by paul269, you can see the innovation is not dead. http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... ostcount=1

Store bought turning tools, of course, have is steel that is formulated and better adapted to sharpening polishing and holding an edge. Home made tools are usually not made from tool steel, but they will work effectively.

Actually a sharpened/angled screwdriver could be a very effective small skew. Old discarded files can be sharpened to make skews.
Personally, at a local lathe turning club, I've seen a hand held sander and a grinding wheel dresser used to do turning.

There's probably no end to home made, effective turning tools.

scollins · Post by **scollins** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:51 am

Good tools = better steel = better edge and less time between sharping. Having said that, my turning tools are a $10-20 set from Habor Freight that will bend with abuse, but won't hurt my feelings if I screw them up learning to sharpen. My next ones will probably be cryogenic. My cheap tools turn just fine, but require frequent, frequent, frequent sharpening.

I think #1, your tool is probably dull and #2 beginners need to learn to sneak into the cut, most go in too aggressively. The one point I didn't see mentioned in any reply that may help is the ghost effect when roughing out uneven stock (i.e. firewood). You easily see the solid part that is even all around, but the uneven part that sticks out is a "ghost image" and can be hard to see so you may only be contacting edges that are several inches apart but trying to dive into the solid part that you see which would definitely result in a bend tool and possibly serious injury. Also pay attention to the comment on technique. If you use a roughing gouge, which you should to start out, and point it down it isn't going to cut.

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Sun Sep 06, 2009 9:15 pm

navycop wrote:You want to hear (read) something funny? I asked my co worker if he had any lathe chiesles. He runs his own home fixing business. He told me that anything sharp would work (i.e. wood chiesl, screwdriver, ect.).

I remember meeting a fellow some years ago who was one of the most talented turners i have ever met. He took great joy in illustrating how he could turn with any sharp tool he had at hand. Even a sharpened flat bladed screwdriver. He also strongly suggested that he would never suggest the practice of using anything but chisels designed for lathe tuning to anyone. He pointed to the wall behind him and the ceiling above his lathe and explained his practice to allowing any tool or wood chip that got away from him to remain where it landed as a reminder of his stupidity. Jim P

boozeclues · Post by **boozeclues** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 4:28 am

quick update.

I just inherited some of my uncles tools and among them was a dremel moto-lathe that he used to make dollhouse furniture on.

i have been messing around with this to practice on with some large dowels. when i catch its no big deal and im learning a thing or two.

i wanted to do some spindles on the ss but my cup center is still on back order

least i got my gilmer belt and it wasnt to big of a pain to install

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 11:04 am

boozeclues wrote:quick update.

I just inherited some of my uncles tools and among them was a dremel moto-lathe that he used to make dollhouse furniture on.

i have been messing around with this to practice on with some large dowels. when i catch its no big deal and im learning a thing or two.

i wanted to do some spindles on the ss but my cup center is still on back order

least i got my gilmer belt and it wasnt to big of a pain to install

Do you have a drill chuck and a tailstock chuck arbor? If so you can make a crude, temporary, flimsy one using the above and a large nail ground to a point(< 60°). Place a flat washer over the nail b4 inserting it into the workpiece(drilling a hole in the workpiece first helps). Keep the washer lubricated while turning.(beeswax[preferred])[or parafin]

As I said this IS flimsy, so be cautious!:eek: Good idea at this point is to be cutting cautiously(non-aggressive cutting) anyway. Keep track of the cutting edge of the chisel and ONLY contact the work piece when you consciously/intentionly intended to!

Be prepared to avoid the workpiece if it separates from this contrived tailstock center.