I sure had my mind wrapped around a larger, taller, deeper chest of drawers. Started out thinking this would be a large chest of drawers used in perhaps the bedroom, for clothing, or dining room for linens. When you said tools and shop, I immediately thought of hand held power tools, hammers, etc.. How silly of me.
Hey! that is one good looking chest you want to build!
Best wishes
Looking for advice: Dado or Sliding Dovetails?
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Dusty,dusty wrote:That is a great chest but if I had it...I would never be able to find anything. Too many drawers "in which to hide".
I have a similar problem with my Kennedy tools chest where I keep all my other tools (from that previous life).
I have a Kennedy as well, from a practical standpoint these are probably some of the best machinists chests out there. Yet I am still partial to the wooden ones.
Troy
The best equipped laundry room in the neighborhood...
charlese - I should have said more about the project and what it was for before asking for help.
I can't find a screwdriver on a pegboard to save my life. But it might be easier if all the Philips heads are in the same spot. I mean really... how many screwdrivers can one person own ][/INDENT]
[ATTACH]12004[/ATTACH]
The chest I'm working on needs to be on wheels because of my workshop space.
Since it's only about 30" tall, it would have to hold the weight of other stuff; you know ... stuff that won't fit in the drawers
.
[INDENT][INDENT]dusty - The idea behind the small drawers is to purposely restrict the amount of stuff that can be put in one spot.dusty wrote:That is a great chest but if I had it...I would never be able to find anything. Too many drawers "in which to hide".
I have a similar problem with my Kennedy tools chest where I keep all my other tools (from that previous life).
I can't find a screwdriver on a pegboard to save my life. But it might be easier if all the Philips heads are in the same spot. I mean really... how many screwdrivers can one person own ][/INDENT]
[ATTACH]12004[/ATTACH]
The chest I'm working on needs to be on wheels because of my workshop space.
Since it's only about 30" tall, it would have to hold the weight of other stuff; you know ... stuff that won't fit in the drawers
.
- Attachments
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- Studley_sm.JPG (87.99 KiB) Viewed 3015 times
~Ryan
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Looks like a good example of an indication that no more tools are needed(or room to put them).ryansm7 wrote:charlese - I should have said more about the project and what it was for before asking for help.
[INDENT][INDENT]dusty - The idea behind the small drawers is to purposely restrict the amount of stuff that can be put in one spot.
I can't find a screwdriver on a pegboard to save my life. But it might be easier if all the Philips heads are in the same spot. I mean really... how many screwdrivers can one person own ][/INDENT] [ATTACH]12004[/ATTACH]
The chest I'm working on needs to be on wheels because of my workshop space.
Since it's only about 30" tall, it would have to hold the weight of other stuff; you know ... stuff that won't fit in the drawers
.
At least the three hammers are 'together'.
Interesting tool 'organization' near the bottom right of the 'left' half!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
ryansm7 wrote:charlese - I should have said more about the project and what it was for before asking for help...
Well, Ryan, if I had been on the ball, I'd asked questions. I ASSUMED! My bad:(
That is a great case!!!! I'm sure you will find many uses for it. I've found when having sever similar drawers in the same location, it helps to put identifying stickers on the drawer fronts.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Well, I'll take plenty of pictures as I go.charlese wrote:Well, Ryan, if I had been on the ball, I'd asked questions. I ASSUMED! My bad:(
That is a great case!!!! I'm sure you will find many uses for it. I've found when having sever similar drawers in the same location, it helps to put identifying stickers on the drawer fronts.
I'm probably going to need some advice on the finish.
Since its all hard maple - and maple doesn't stain evenly - I'm not sure how to get past the initial coat of sealer.
Maple also tends to have a yellow tint to it after a while. It might be UV from sunlight.
Anyway, I'd like to end up with a deeper dark cherry red. (not a candy apple; for the automotive enthusiasts)
So far, I've just planed the rough sawn wood for the carcass.
I really hate planning through knots...
A new set of jointer knives just arrived from Shopsmith - so those need to be put in and get them adjusted.
.
~Ryan
[quote="ryansm7"]Since its all hard maple - and maple doesn't stain evenly - I'm not sure how to get past the initial coat of sealer.
Maple also tends to have a yellow tint to it after a while. It might be UV from sunlight.
Anyway, I'd like to end up with a deeper dark cherry red. (not a candy apple]
To get an even stain on blotchy woods, I have used the following formula with success. First sand to your desired smoothness. I would then use a 1# cut shellac to seal the wood and sand with 220 or 320 after it dries. After this I used General Finishes gel stain to get the desired color. This is a GREAT stain that is easy to apply and control the color. Once this dries you can use the topcoat of your choice.
I usually test my finishing technique on a sample piece of the same wood as my project. This allows me to get the desired effect without risking my project.
Maple also tends to have a yellow tint to it after a while. It might be UV from sunlight.
Anyway, I'd like to end up with a deeper dark cherry red. (not a candy apple]
To get an even stain on blotchy woods, I have used the following formula with success. First sand to your desired smoothness. I would then use a 1# cut shellac to seal the wood and sand with 220 or 320 after it dries. After this I used General Finishes gel stain to get the desired color. This is a GREAT stain that is easy to apply and control the color. Once this dries you can use the topcoat of your choice.
I usually test my finishing technique on a sample piece of the same wood as my project. This allows me to get the desired effect without risking my project.