New to SS

Forum for people who are new to woodworking. Feel free to ask questions or contribute.

Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin

afzski
Bronze Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 11:51 pm

New to SS

Post by afzski »

I have just bought a used Mark V 510 (1983 from the serial number) - I've been drooling ever since I saw it for sale - well I'm sending off the headstock to be "Tuned-Up" - the speed control seems a little stiff and the quill binds a little. Being over 20 yr old - and not seemed to be maintained well - I'd feel a little safer before I really get into using it.

From the times I have seen these at the shows - I tend to remember plans for the under table tool rests - Unfortunately I did not get any of the training books that were included - (rats!) so I was wondering if there were any plans still available for those tool storage tables.

I have access to a stacked dado cutter - but it is an 8" set - not 6" like SS sells - would I be able to use it on the SS 510??? and if so could I make a table inset out of 1/4" plywood???

Also where would I find the instructions for proper use of the "Feather Boards" - I have been reeling over how to attach it to use - and lastly a biscut cutter came with the tool - but no instruction booklet - where may I get one???

Alex
scottss
Gold Member
Posts: 301
Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:46 am
Location: Pacific Northwest Washington State

Post by scottss »

First welcome to the family of shopsmith users. If you can pick up a couple of items they would help. They are as follows
1 powertool woodworking for everyone book http://www.bestwebbuys.com/Power_Tool_W ... c=b-search
2 ten lessons from shopsmith book
3 Shopsmith Heirloom projects Fundamentals availible on ebay often
4 Hands online Sawdust Sessions http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Sawdust_Sessions.htm
and of course there is a lot of tips right here and all over this site
User avatar
dusty
Platinum Member
Posts: 21359
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

New to SS

Post by dusty »

alex,

Welcome to the family of Shopsmith users. It is good that you are here, we can always use another dissenting opinion.

I hope that this is one of the first places you will come when you need assistance regarding your Shopsmith equipment and your woodworking experiences.

Please consider the items offered here, if you don't already have them.

http://www.shopsmith.com/markvsite/education.htm

Some of this material is available from other sources, like ebay, but I highly recommend these wherever you might get them. Hopefully, some of this came with your Shopsmith.

Browse the Shopsmith forum. Get to know your way around, there is a lot of valuable information available here.

Once again, welcome.:)
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
User avatar
johnmccrossen
Gold Member
Posts: 173
Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 8:09 pm
Location: Washington

Post by johnmccrossen »

Be sure to use their customer service contacts. They will have the part number for the biscuit joiner booklet. They also have detailed printed "how-to" instructions they can mail you for most maintainence or repair functions that may be needed. They are a great resource. Good Luck, John McCrossen
John McCrossen
Everett, Wa.
1954 Mk 5 SN 269454, 1955 Mk 5 SN 316013, 1960 Mk 5 SN 360792, 1962 Mk 5 SN 380102, Magna band saw, (2) jointers, (1) belt sander, (1) air compressor, (1) jig saw, (1) strip sander, (1) 20" scroll saw, DC 3300 dust collector, Sawsmith RAS, Craftsman table saw, 13" DeWalt planer, Triton 3 1/4 HP plunge router & table
User avatar
Nick
Platinum Member
Posts: 808
Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 4:04 pm
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Contact:

Post by Nick »

I prefer an 8" dado cutter, Alex. The bigger diameter leaves a smoother cut. You can either make an insert from plywood or buy one of our "zero-clearance" inserts and make one.

With all good wishes,
burnsrk
Silver Member
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:25 pm
Location: Englewood, OH

Biscuit Joiner booklet

Post by burnsrk »

I have the instruction booklet, however it is two sided and my scanner isn't. I cannot upload the documents successfully to this thread, however, I can send you an email with them attached. There will be two files, biscuit 1 and biscuit 2. 1 are the odd pages and 2 are the even pages. Since they are saved in PDF format, you will have to print them out and then collate them yourself.

If I scanned them in Word format and saved them (in order to collate myself), they would be over 50MB, so it is easier for me to send you two PDF files.

Send me a PM and I will send the two files to you (approx 5 MB total - 12 pages).

Kevin B
afzski
Bronze Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 11:51 pm

Home Made Table insert

Post by afzski »

Nick

Just to understand what I'm doing -- all I need to do would be trace the existing table insert on plywood, cut it out and secure to the table. Set the Dado cutter to it's maximum width and then lower the table (raise the blades) with the tool running to cut the opening.

Do you recommend using 1/4" plywood or 3/8"

Thanks for the reply

Alex
User avatar
dusty
Platinum Member
Posts: 21359
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Post by dusty »

I'm not Nick but I'll give you $.02 worth anyhow.

I use one of my inserts as a template and create the new one with a router and a pattern following bit.

Yes, cut the slot by slowly lowering the table down onto a running blade - the one the insert is intended to work with.

Take your time, be safe.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
User avatar
berry
Platinum Member
Posts: 751
Joined: Sun Oct 15, 2006 5:46 pm
Location: St. Paul, MN

New to SS

Post by berry »

Welcome aboard! Little in life is as rewarding woodworking can be.

I use a 6" dado set on my 520. It's a Freud set and works fine.

I make my inserts from hard wood. Someone earlier mentioned that use the factory insert that came with their SS as a pattern. That's what I do as well. I keep a couple of blanks on hand in case I need zero clearance for an odd dado size.

When I lower the table to cut through the insert for the first time I put the fence over the insert BEING CAREFUL that the fence is off to the side of the path of the dado set.

I think you'll enjoy making an under SS tool shelf/holder/cabinet. I know there are plans to be had but what a swell project to use your creative talents. And because all of us work differently I'm surprised we don't all create our own design. Here a picture of mine. You might do this same project a couple times trying to fit your needs.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/berry63/

If you have questions about it feel free to ask & I could shoot a couple more snap shots. Briefly the top shelf side pieces or rails are 1" cherry. I cut a groove with my dado set and the shelf itself is 1/2" OSB (it was the platform of a waterbed I got really cheap. The rails are attached directly to the legs of the SS using rosen inserts. The bottom shelf is the same construction except rather than attaching it to the legs I cut a notch on the ends of the rails and it hang on the 'axle' of the retractable casters.

At the risk of sounding like a nanny, please work safely & have fun.
james.miller
Gold Member
Posts: 303
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:16 pm

Post by james.miller »

I got really fancy with a couple of inserts. I had made some from 1/4" Melamine MDF but they sat about .020" lower than the table. I made some out of 1/2" Baltic Burch ply and routed the edges of the underside until they sat flush with the table. A little extra work but why not.

You can make several at a time, I find it easy to rip them to width then cut them to length slightly long. Cut the curved end with a band saw or scroll saw then finish the curved end with the disc sander or use a router with a bearing bit and the metal insert as a guide. Use a self centering center punch to mark the two mounting holes.

Then use the metal insert to mark with pencil where to route the relief on the underside. It will take a little trial and error to get the depth just right but
when finished it will set perfectly flush with your table.

I have had the top surface of the baltic birch plywood splinter when lowering the table onto the saw blade so I harden the top surface of the insert with extra thin super glue right down the middle where the saw blade will come through and let it harden overnight.

Once you have the saw blade slot cut IF you will be using this for a regular saw blade then extend the opening to the back with a scroll saw the same distance as the opening on the metal insert.

This looks like more work than I really want to do but it's really not that bad.
I usually make 4 inserts at a time and they last me for a few years. One for standard kerf blades and one for thin kerf blades and a couple of extras.

If your doing a lot of dadoing you can go through a lot of inserts so you might want to just make them out of 1/4" Melamine MDF or 1/4" plywood.

Zero clearance inserts can make an OK plywood blade into a great performer.
Jim in Tucson
Post Reply