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Model 10E for sale

GrampsolSS

Hello all. I have a model 10e that one of you may be interested in. It was my grandfathers' and seems to be in decent condition. Its missing a couple of parts i believe, it also has a few original accessories. I would love to have a reasonable offer on it or even just learn more about it. I'm pretty sure it was one of the first couple thousand made. I live in Central point, Oregon 97502

BuckeyeDennis

Yes indeed, that is a very early machine. We believe that the serial numbers started with 1000. I own 10E SN 1750, and there’s at least one earlier machine owned by a member here.

You definitely came to the right place for info. One of our members, Everett Davis, is researching and writing a book about Shopsmith history. He’s already shared many historical documents here. You can access all of that info from this thread.

amboyna

Where are you located.

GrampsolSS

Central point, Oregon

amboyna

Your machine was made in 1948. In late 1947 Montgomery Wards purchased 250 Shopsmiths for sale on the west coast. Sales were so good that they placed another order for 1,000 machines. Yours is in that range.

I'm not saying your machine was sold by Montgomery Ward. But it could of been.

chapmanruss

Welcome to the Forum.

Your Shopsmith Model 10E looks in pretty good condition. It is indeed one of the early Shopsmiths having the serial number 1539. As Bruce said it was likely part of the second order for Montgomery Ward. It is interesting to note that it has the second version of the headstock. The Lathe tool rest is the first version that was soon replaced by a single casting. Most of your Shopsmith has version 1 parts. Being the 539th tool made it looks like the only change was the headstock and if it is steel not aluminum the quill return spring housing. Issues with the first production headstock and the aluminum spring housing caused the first two changes in the Model 10E.

As BuckeyeDennis mentioned above I have S/N 1077 which was part of the first order sent to Montgomery Ward west coast stores/catalog houses on November 15, 1947. I own or have owned 22 Model 10's of which 17 have been restored and 14 resold. It is through there restorations I have learned a lot about them and the changes that occurred during their production.

More about your Shopsmith, because it is an early one it may be desirable as collectible but not as much as a working piece of history. Improvements made to the Model 10's made them better to work with. The biggest improvement, in my opinion, was the change to the metal extension table and Magna must have believed it to since they offered an upgrade kit for the wood extension table Model 10E tools already sold. It included the Metal Extension Table, Table Extension Bracket, the Tailstock for the new table, new version of the Fence with both front and rear locks along with related knobs and parts.

I would be interested in seeing more pictures of you Shopsmith and I believe others would too. Of interest would be pictures the of accessories too. I noticed you have 2 saw blades mounted on arbors and one looks to be a later version while the other looks to be an early version. You have the original 6 rib sanding disk, the original miter and the original sanding drum accessory. Although the 3326 Jacobs Drill Chuck is a good one, it is not the original 33B Jacobs Chuck on an adapter that came with the early Model 10E's.

rjent

What a magnificent machine! Everything that needs to be said has been, but you have a great woodworking tool that belonged to your family. Think you can find the sales receipt and/or the manuals?

Nice speed changer too. Read up and learn how to operate it. It will do amazing work .... :cool:

chapmanruss

I forgot to mention before there is a person near you who buys Shopsmiths to disassemble and sell the parts on eBay. If you wish to keep it as a complete working unit you will want to sell it to someone looking to restore or use it as is. Your other option as Dick is speaking to would be to keep it as a part of your family history. You may find it useful after learning more about it and how to use it.

amboyna

chapmanruss wroteI forgot to mention before there is a person near you who buys Shopsmiths to disassemble and sell the parts on eBay. If you wish to keep it as a complete working unit you will want to sell it to someone looking to restore or use it as is. Your other option as Dick is speaking to would be to keep it as a part of your family history. You may find it useful after learning more about it and how to use it.

So true. The 10E and ER are really amazing machines. Bought my first one in the 70's. It might not be the most accurate for some things, and it is a little bit of a hassle to change out the table saw for instance. But the versatility outweighs the negatives. :)

rpd

Welcome aboard.

The pulley's on the motor and the drive sleeve should be mounted with the largest pulley closest to the motor and headstock respectively. Mounted that way the upper pulley guard will mount properly..

Speed changer manual here. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2714

Picture 13 in the ad is a home made guard/dust collector for the sanding disk, The jigsaw works with the main table when in use.

Jigsaw manual here. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2703

chapmanruss

Ron,

For the pulleys the position, as you point out, is important as it shows in the picture.

I believe you are referring to the 10E for sale in Texas for the following comment that is part of the Shopsmith 10E Shaper Fence? thread.

Picture 13 in the ad is a home made guard/dust collector for the sanding disk,

I remember I had commented on that elsewhere. Also the original poster for this thread wasn't showing a Jig Saw. :eek: Is that from the Texas sale too.

I get mixed up sometimes too. Example - Even though I had restored over a dozen Model 10's I was doing the table alignment of a newly restored Model 10 and couldn't figure why I could not get the table to align front to back. It finally came to me that I had attached the rear table bearing P/N 103-4 upside down. Something that doesn't make a difference on a Mark 5 but certainly does on a Model 10.

So many Shopsmiths running through my head and so little brain power left to even keep them straight.

JPG

chapmanruss wroteRon,

For the pulleys the position, as you point out, is important as it shows in the picture.

I believe you are referring to the 10E for sale in Texas for the following comment that is part of the Shopsmith 10E Shaper Fence? thread.
Picture 13 in the ad is a home made guard/dust collector for the sanding disk,
I remember I had commented on that elsewhere. Also the original poster for this thread wasn't showing a Jig Saw. :eek: Is that from the Texas sale too.

I get mixed up sometimes too. Example - Even though I had restored over a dozen Model 10's I was doing the table alignment of a newly restored Model 10 and couldn't figure why I could not get the table to align front to back. It finally came to me that I had attached the rear table bearing P/N 103-4 upside down. Something that doesn't make a difference on a Mark 5 but certainly does on a Model 10.

So many Shopsmiths running through my head and so little brain power left to even keep them straight.

I indeed does make a difference on a Mark 5. A good way to break it is to mount it upside down and tighten the bolts. :(

chapmanruss

JPG,

I believe we are talking about different parts. On the early Model 10E P/N 103-4 is called the Rear Table Bearing. It's counterpart on the early Mark 5 tables is P/N B 2295 Trunnion - Rear.
In both cases the part remained the same during their production of the Model 10's and the original table system of the Mark 5 A.K.A Mark V 500. In the case of the Mark 5 there is no up or down side.

103-4 Table Bearing r.jpg

Trunnion Rear.png

jsburger

The first 10E I refurbed I did the same thing. I got the pivot bracket wrong and it took me a while to figure out what was wrong.

JPG

chapmanruss wroteJPG,

I believe we are talking about different parts. On the early Model 10E P/N 103-4 is called the Rear Table Bearing. It's counterpart on the early Mark 5 tables is P/N B 2295 Trunnion - Rear.

103-4 Table Bearing r.jpgTrunnion Rear.pngIn both cases the part remained the same during their production of the Model 10's and the original table system of the Mark 5 A.K.A Mark V 500. In the case of the Mark 5 there is no up or down side.

IF that be the case, WHY is the word "TOP" cast into the side with the bump which will interfere if installed upside down?

chapmanruss

JPG,

I didn't realize I had one until I just went out and looked. I believe it is from a 80's Mark V Original Table System. You are correct, it has a raised bump which has TOP stamped into it. Still not sure what that would hit if it was upside down. I do not have a complete original table assembly to check it out but since you do I will agree with you that there must be a reason. Below is the one I found.

504249 Rear Trunnion.jpg

JPG

A lousy pix, but the "BUMP" will hit the underside of the table if the bearing is installed upside down.

BTW "TOP" is for the assembly person who installs it at the factory. Sorta like laying sod green side up! 😃

REAR TRUNION BEARING B.jpg

amboyna

GrampsolSS has not responded to my PM. Wonder if they sold it.

chace

i have model 1272

chapmanruss

Hi chace and welcome to the forum,

You said you have model 1272 but do you mean serial number 1272 for a Model 10E? We would love to see pictures. If it is Model 10E S/N 1272 it would be from the next Model 10E's made after the original shipment. If you need help on how to post pictures on this forum go to the following link for that.

https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/community-f7/how-to-post-a-picture-t19246.html

It is also one of the top threads on this community page. We look forward to hearing more from you.