Problem with Table Saw Guard Interference

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prawlings1
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Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2020 7:25 pm

Problem with Table Saw Guard Interference

Post by prawlings1 »

I have a model 510R S/N 180632 (1984). I had to put my tools in storage for several years due to lack of a workspace when I moved to a different house.

Now that I have a place to work and free time, I found that the table saw cut depth is limited to about 2" or slightly less. This is with the standard 10" blade. The problem is due to the metal baffle on the underside of the table hitting the plastic blade guard/dust chute. This problem is with the table angle set to 0 degrees. I think the saw had this problem before putting it into storage, but I'm not sure.

I'm considering removing the metal baffle because it is damaging the plastic blade guard/dust chute and I need more than 1.5 to 2" of cut depth. I don't know if this has any bearing on the problem but I upgraded the saw from the original to a Mark V around 1986 or 1987.

Has anyone else experienced this problem if so what did you do about it?

Also, I am not happy with the endplay and runout in the quill so I think I will do the quil upgrade. Any comments?
garys
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Re: Problem with Table Saw Guard Interference

Post by garys »

The lower plastic blade guard is adjustable for width. If you open it too far, it will contact the baffle under the table. Check that you have it closed up properly if you want a deeper cut. Mine is closed all the way for a narrow blade, and I get about 3 1/4" depth of cut that way.
prawlings1
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Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2020 7:25 pm

Re: Problem with Table Saw Guard Interference

Post by prawlings1 »

I think the guard is set as narrow as I can set it. I'll double check, but I believe the baffle is the problem.
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rpd
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Re: Problem with Table Saw Guard Interference

Post by rpd »

prawlings1 wrote: Tue Oct 27, 2020 8:12 pm

Also, I am not happy with the endplay and runout in the quill so I think I will do the quil upgrade. Any comments?
Any end play on the spindle should be taken up by the Spindle Knob (the knurled collar). One side of it is stepped down to a smaller OD. That side goes towards the quill and should be pushed tight against the bearing to take up any end play.
If it is on the other way around it will prevent the arbor from going all the way onto the spindle which causes problems with aligning the blade with the riving knife.
Ron Dyck
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
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