A view on alignment of the shopsmith.

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JPG
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Re: A view on alignment of the shopsmith.

Post by JPG »

i.e. pulled the tables towards each other so the individual adjustable collars were constantly tight. Yep that makes sense(≡pivot on the other side to push against).
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dusty
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Re: A view on alignment of the shopsmith.

Post by dusty »

I had to maintain some pressure of the left side of the main table to keep it from moving so as to allow only the infeed side to move when the infeed side stop collar was being adjusted. Other than that it all worked the way I envisioned. I didn't finish the concept proof because I am going to make some other changes (move the stop collars). As I had them the changes on one side were not equal and opposite on the other side. Moving the stop collars to be equal distant from the spindle should balance that.
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Ed in Tampa
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Re: A view on alignment of the shopsmith.

Post by Ed in Tampa »

Hey in the “my growth rings” YouTube video he went over setting up the lathe part of the SS. He said it was the most important part of the SS set up. He mentioned using the set screw in back side of left side way tube foundation.
This may explain a lot of alignment problems.

https://youtu.be/w_SS67qincs
Last edited by Ed in Tampa on Sun Jan 24, 2021 9:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Ed in Tampa
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Re: A view on alignment of the shopsmith.

Post by Ed in Tampa »

https://youtu.be/w_SS67qincs
Forgot to post link sorry
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JPG
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Re: A view on alignment of the shopsmith.

Post by JPG »

Ed in Tampa wrote: Sun Jan 24, 2021 8:59 pm . . . He mentioned using the set screw in back side of left side way tube foundation.
This may explain a lot of alignment problems.

https://youtu.be/w_SS67qincs
AMEN!!!!!!! He actually used the twist word!

He also revealed a simple way to check. Spoken, not demonstrated.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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algale
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Re: A view on alignment of the shopsmith.

Post by algale »

JPG wrote: Mon Jan 25, 2021 10:22 am
Ed in Tampa wrote: Sun Jan 24, 2021 8:59 pm . . . He mentioned using the set screw in back side of left side way tube foundation.
This may explain a lot of alignment problems.

https://youtu.be/w_SS67qincs
AMEN!!!!!!! He actually used the twist word!

He also revealed a simple way to check. Spoken, not demonstrated.
Wait, are you now a set screw convert JPG?
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Re: A view on alignment of the shopsmith.

Post by DLB »

Ed in Tampa wrote: Sun Jan 24, 2021 8:59 pm Hey in the “my growth rings” YouTube video he went over setting up the lathe part of the SS. He said it was the most important part of the SS set up. He mentioned using the set screw in back side of left side way tube foundation.
This may explain a lot of alignment problems.
I'm aware of at least four 'recommended' methods of adjusting the big setscrew in the headrest end of many Marks. Recently we discussed a method that Nick advocated in a Sawdust Session where adjustment of the big setscrew resulted in the ability to swap the 520 extension table from left to right without losing alignment. And another where adjustment allowed the use of straight tube SPT mounts. IMO, these methods do not all consistently produce the same results. The part I agree with is that misalignment of the base explains many alignment problems. Personally, I would not use a method that did not include confirmation of the alignment at both ends of the machine. (I no longer use any method for my own stuff, I found the Double Tilt (DT) Base eliminates the issue completely, so I use a shop made DT on my shorty. Mine is functionally a copy of the factory DT except for the double rack main table tubes, but I suspect other DT versions would produce equal results.)

Note - The best method I used was one advocated by JPG on this forum. I don't know if he still considers it the best, I think there was a later version that involved a laser. To summarize it, he used a router chuck with a countersink as a headstock pointer and an extension table base as a transfer standard. He transferred both the pointer and standard between left and right and adjusted the big setscrew until things were aligned/centered at both ends at the same time. This method produced the best results I have experienced on a system that included a Headrest.

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JPG
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Re: A view on alignment of the shopsmith.

Post by JPG »

The 'laser' method was for attempting to get a single table aligned at both ends. It did not replace the previous method, but I did use an aux table base(sans table) and a mechanical pointer on both the quill shaft and the upper aux shaft. The laser allowed marking the center of the base on both 'sides' for positioning on both ends(using opposite side).

The laser allows verifying points between the ends.

Al:
I have ALWAYS insisted that the PURPOSE of the big set screw was to adjust twist out(make way tubes parallel to the bench tubes in the horizontal plane. I disagree with using that big set screw for other alignment purposes that "might" create twist.

FWIW the tail stock method Scott mentioned ASSUMES the tailstock is also centered between the tail stock mounting tubes. Somewhat trivial, but tis possible although that would imply the quill is not centered either. Twist COULD cause that but more so from end to end.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Re: A view on alignment of the shopsmith.

Post by db5 »

"Note - The best method I used was one advocated by JPG on this forum. I don't know if he still considers it the best, I think there was a later version that involved a laser. To summarize it, he used a router chuck with a countersink as a headstock pointer and an extension table base as a transfer standard. He transferred both the pointer and standard between left and right and adjusted the big setscrew until things were aligned/centered at both ends at the same time. This method produced the best results I have experienced on a system that included a Headrest."

I'd love to see some pictures of this.
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JPG
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Re: A view on alignment of the shopsmith.

Post by JPG »

I have not(yet) tried the tail stock moved to both ends, but it is essentially the same as my previous method with an aux table base, but it has that adjustable center thingie to possibly muck things up..
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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