Connecting tubes

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edma194
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Connecting tubes

Post by edma194 »

After amassing 2 extension tables and 6 floating tables for my 510 I have to find longer connecting tubes. I have a whole bunch of the 27" versions but will need some that are about 36" for connecting 3 floating tables to an extension table, maybe the 5 footers that Shopsmith sells when connecting to the main table, and some maybe 8 feet or longer when I want maximum table space. All the tables don't have to be connected of course, different sections of tables can be leveled up with each other, so that a very long tube isn't necessary unless it will substantially help stabilize the whole unit. Some other particular size may be more versatile if I want to set up extended infeed or outfeed tables.

Anybody found alternatives to the Shopsmith tubes? They have an OD of about 1", just barely. A piece of 3/4" black pipe with nominal OD of 1.04" won't fit in but they can quite a bit larger than the nominal figure and not very round. I'll try to sand the piece down and see if it will go in without problem. Black pipe is considerably heavier than the Shopsmith tubes. The metal should be a bit softer also and the table set screws may grip it a little better. 1" rigid electrical conduit is also about the same diameter, 1.050", maybe a little more consistent than black pipe dimensionally and lighter. 3/4" EMT has a smaller OD, 0.922", pretty close, lighter than the others but not as strong.

Has anyone tried smaller tubes? Maybe OD of only 7/8" or even 3/4"? The set screws contacting the connecting tube above or below it's center should force the connecting tube against the table tube from two directions, up or down along with outward. The current system is only pushing the connecting tube outward. That change may not help in the end, variances in the table tube and the connecting tubes may still make aligning the tables difficult.
Ed from Rhode Island

510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
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RFGuy
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Re: Connecting tubes

Post by RFGuy »

Ed,

You may want to search the forum archives by searching for DOM with connector tubes, etc. Below are a couple of threads that discussed this, but I know I have seen several others. Hopefully John (jsburger) and others who have alternatives will respond as well with what they ended up using. I know I have seen threads discussing aftermarket tubing purchases and DOM (drawn over mandrel) was considered as was TGP (turned, ground & polished) tubing of different types. Going with an aftermarket solution you have the option of getting a more rigid and straighter tubing than what Shopsmith sells.

I purchased one set of the 5' connector tubes from Shopsmith, but honestly haven't used them as much as I thought I would...often preferring the shorter length in practice.

viewtopic.php?p=232779#p232779

viewtopic.php?p=232853#p232853
📶RF Guy

Mark V 520 (Bought New '98) | 4" jointer | 6" beltsander | 12" planer | bandsaw | router table | speed reducer | univ. tool rest
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edma194
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Re: Connecting tubes

Post by edma194 »

Thanks RF!

I've been checking out DOM and other pipe. The prices for steel are outrageous right now. Aluminum is a reasonable substitute and better price-wise. Anything precision ground is way too expensive, and I think pointless because precision in the connecting tube won't make up for all the variance in the table tubes, the set screws, the table mounts, and the table itself. I might find something affordable and there's now a Metal Supermarket nearby so I don't need to pay absurd shipping prices or half a day on the road picking it up. I am considering trying out the 3/4" EMT conduit (0.922" OD), maybe it's stronger than I think, it should be pretty strong at that diameter.
Ed from Rhode Island

510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
RFGuy
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Re: Connecting tubes

Post by RFGuy »

edma194 wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 2:40 pm Thanks RF!

I've been checking out DOM and other pipe. The prices for steel are outrageous right now. Aluminum is a reasonable substitute and better price-wise. Anything precision ground is way too expensive, and I think pointless because precision in the connecting tube won't make up for all the variance in the table tubes, the set screws, the table mounts, and the table itself. I might find something affordable and there's now a Metal Supermarket nearby so I don't need to pay absurd shipping prices or half a day on the road picking it up. I am considering trying out the 3/4" EMT conduit (0.922" OD), maybe it's stronger than I think, it should be pretty strong at that diameter.
Ed,

Thanks. Yeah, I bought my Shopsmith 5' connector tubes when they were on sale before. I didn't want to spent too much on them either, even though I would have preferred a more rigid, straighter solution. I skipped on EMT because I have seen mixed reviews of them for connector tubes in the past. Not trying to deter you from using it, but maybe search through all the old posts on EMT. Some claim that EMT works great for this even though it should be too small in OD. Rigid conduit might be a better option, but then it will be heavy. I'd love to find a thick wall aluminum option...couple of EMT specific threads below for you to review.

viewtopic.php?p=232872#p232872

viewtopic.php?p=232838#p232838
📶RF Guy

Mark V 520 (Bought New '98) | 4" jointer | 6" beltsander | 12" planer | bandsaw | router table | speed reducer | univ. tool rest
Porter Cable 12" Compound Miter Saw | Rikon 8" Low Speed Bench Grinder w/CBN wheels | Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides
Festool (Emerald): DF 500 Q | RO 150 FEQ | OF 1400 EQ | TS 55 REQ | CT 26 E
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edma194
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Re: Connecting tubes

Post by edma194 »

RFGuy wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 2:50 pm I'd love to find a thick wall aluminum option.
Prices from Online Metals (you have to select 1" OD and wall thickness)
https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/aluminum-round-tube

Looks pretty good for 6061 with a .125" wall, not that bad for .25" wall either. No guarantee on the straightness of those pieces those. The drawn tubing is quite a bit more expensive than the extruded but maybe somewhat stronger.
Ed from Rhode Island

510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
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garys
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Re: Connecting tubes

Post by garys »

A few years ago I purchased two 6' stainless steel tubes from Grainger. They are a bit heavier wall than the Shopsmith 5' ones, but that makes them more rigid. I use them when I break down 4x8 sheets of plywood and they work great. I don't have the exact information on them anymore, but they look like this.
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAING ... ing-53PA26
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jsburger
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Re: Connecting tubes

Post by jsburger »

RFGuy wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 12:49 pm Ed,

You may want to search the forum archives by searching for DOM with connector tubes, etc. Below are a couple of threads that discussed this, but I know I have seen several others. Hopefully John (jsburger) and others who have alternatives will respond as well with what they ended up using. I know I have seen threads discussing aftermarket tubing purchases and DOM (drawn over mandrel) was considered as was TGP (turned, ground & polished) tubing of different types. Going with an aftermarket solution you have the option of getting a more rigid and straighter tubing than what Shopsmith sells.

I purchased one set of the 5' connector tubes from Shopsmith, but honestly haven't used them as much as I thought I would...often preferring the shorter length in practice.

viewtopic.php?p=232779#p232779

viewtopic.php?p=232853#p232853
I bought 6' stainless tubes from Metals Depot as described in the referenced thread (1" dia. X .120 wall). That was 4 years ago and I said they were $103 plus shipping for two 6' lengths. They are great and very rigid.

I just checked the price today. The same tubes are now $134 each. :eek: :eek: :eek:

https://www.metalsdepot.com/stainless-s ... round-tube
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
edma194
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Re: Connecting tubes

Post by edma194 »

Anything made of steel costs a fortune now so I'm going to investigate inexpensive options for the time being. That won't be easy either, it seems the local Loews stores aren't restocking metal conduit. Stainless steel seems like a good option, it is very strong and stiff and a 0.12" wall, virtually 1/8", should be very strong. I am leaning toward Chromalloy tubes though, quite strong and according to someone with a modicum of credibility it will be very straight even for the longer lengths.

I will say the Shopsmith 27" tubes have been fine for me so far. But I only had 2 floating tables for a long time, and no extension legs, these tubes rarely had to support much weight over any significant length. Now I get to use all the cool variations of table setups with longer tubes. I would like to be able to set up a bunch of them off one end of the machine just to give me a large general purpose work surface.

I'll go off topic in my own thread now:

Extension legs! Does anyone find these things useful? They won't support much weight, vibration makes them move around. To get them tight against the floor I have to swing them out, lengthen them a little, then kick bottom over until the leg is straight and tight, and hopefully the table is then level so I don't have to do it again. There seem to be two versions, one a little beefier than the other that locks into the length better, maybe I just have a lot of the weaker version. I have an idea for making legs with black or galvanized pipe and threaded rod. I think they could be adjusted from the top saving my poor back from further punishment.

And while I'm in a slightly rant-y mood I'll bring up alignment pins or bolting floating and extension tables together so the connecting tubes are simply supporting the tables, not keeping them in alignment. I don't think I could drill accurately enough for alignment pins or bolts in tight holes, but maybe there's a solution by attaching steel plates with connecting pins and holes that get bolted to the sides of the tables in a way they can be adjusted until the tables are aligned. All my dreams I suppose. One day I have to get a look at a 520 table system and see how that worked out.
Ed from Rhode Island

510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
RFGuy
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Re: Connecting tubes

Post by RFGuy »

edma194 wrote: Tue Oct 12, 2021 12:08 pm Extension legs! Does anyone find these things useful? They won't support much weight, vibration makes them move around. To get them tight against the floor I have to swing them out, lengthen them a little, then kick bottom over until the leg is straight and tight, and hopefully the table is then level so I don't have to do it again. There seem to be two versions, one a little beefier than the other that locks into the length better, maybe I just have a lot of the weaker version. I have an idea for making legs with black or galvanized pipe and threaded rod. I think they could be adjusted from the top saving my poor back from further punishment.

And while I'm in a slightly rant-y mood I'll bring up alignment pins or bolting floating and extension tables together so the connecting tubes are simply supporting the tables, not keeping them in alignment. I don't think I could drill accurately enough for alignment pins or bolts in tight holes, but maybe there's a solution by attaching steel plates with connecting pins and holes that get bolted to the sides of the tables in a way they can be adjusted until the tables are aligned. All my dreams I suppose. One day I have to get a look at a 520 table system and see how that worked out.
Thanks Ed. You have hit upon some of the main reasons that I don't use my extension tables, and hence my 5' connector tubes, as much as I would have thought. I know there is a camp of Shopsmith enthusiasts who believe that cutting plywood on the Mark V is a breeze and who embrace having lots of extension tables, etc. I find myself in the other camp that doesn't believe the Mark V does this all that well so I went the tracksaw route instead. Don't get me wrong, I still love my Shopsmith, but I try to limit its use to those functions that I find the Mark V does well at. The extension legs are a PIA. Yes, they work, but invariably it is frustrating setting them up, then what happens if you didn't set the main table at the appropriate height, you get to do it all over again. What is needed is the ability to micro-adjust the extension legs height similar to the adjustable stop collars the Shopsmith sells. If Shopsmith, or an owner, could come up with a better system for handling the extension table support then I would change my mind on this topic. The extension table idea is a great concept, but lacking in terms of execution as far as I am concerned. Rather than a single, flimsy leg, what is realled needed is a small rolling platform that forms a solid base with a riser that has adjustable height to raise up and support the extension table from underneath. JMO.
📶RF Guy

Mark V 520 (Bought New '98) | 4" jointer | 6" beltsander | 12" planer | bandsaw | router table | speed reducer | univ. tool rest
Porter Cable 12" Compound Miter Saw | Rikon 8" Low Speed Bench Grinder w/CBN wheels | Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides
Festool (Emerald): DF 500 Q | RO 150 FEQ | OF 1400 EQ | TS 55 REQ | CT 26 E
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dusty
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Re: Connecting tubes

Post by dusty »

I do wish I could figure out exactly what you two are ranting about.

What can't be done with the extension tables??? The only issue I ever have with them comes when I need to readjust table height after getting it all set at a different height. I don't use the 5' tubes for that very reason.
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