PARF REAM for 20mm holes

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sehast
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Re: PARF REAM for 20mm holes

Post by sehast »

I got to try out my reamer today and overall I would say it is excellent. I used a TSO close fit dog and some holes I had previously drilled with the SO that were too tight to remove without assistance from underneath the table. The drill guide worked well and I quickly discovered that the depth you allow the reamer to go in the hole determines the tightness of the fit. If you go all the way down to the max depth you get a hole that is a little bit too loose for my taste. With some experimenting I found just the right depth for the tightness I prefer and just set the stop on the guide there. I also tried free handing with no guide and it works pretty good, probably just as good as with guide and faster but harder to get just the right depth each time. The reamer end is tapered so it uses the hole as a guide for the cutting part of the reamer so I think that is the reason it works so well.
RFGuy
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Re: PARF REAM for 20mm holes

Post by RFGuy »

I'll have to get one of these PARF REAM tools to try. I wish I had thought to put it on my order from TSO. I did get the DoubleGroove™ Smart Connect Dogs from them this week. I do like them, but I need to make some spacers to use them. They are custom designed for Ron Paulk and are meant for connecting through 2 sheets of 5/8" plywood, but my MFT top is 3/4". I'll make some spacers to put around them on the bottom so that the speed knobs will hold them tightly to the MFT top. So, for the PARF REAM does it just do the 20mm hole, or does the top of the reamer also chamfer the top edge of the 20mm holes? I see TSO updated their website to indicate that the UJK Chamfer tool should not be used to chamfer (see below).

"To flush mount Smart Connect Dogs, you will need to chamfer the 20mm holes on your work surface. We recommend using a trim router to chamfer your 20mm holes as you can perfectly adjust the depth of the chamfer to match these bench dog. We do not recommend using the fixed-cut-depth of the UJK Chamfer Tool which is not suitable for plywood."
📶RF Guy

Mark V 520 (Bought New '98) | 4" jointer | 6" beltsander | 12" planer | bandsaw | router table | speed reducer | univ. tool rest
Porter Cable 12" Compound Miter Saw | Rikon 8" Low Speed Bench Grinder w/CBN wheels | Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides
Festool (Emerald): DF 500 Q | RO 150 FEQ | OF 1400 EQ | TS 55 REQ | CT 26 E
DC3300 | Shopvac w/ClearVue CV06 Mini Cyclone | JDS AirTech 2000 | Sundstrom PAPR | Dylos DC1100 Pro particulate monitor
sehast
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Re: PARF REAM for 20mm holes

Post by sehast »

The reamer is just a reamer and I think you can only get it from Axminster, at least that is where I got mine.
RFGuy
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Re: PARF REAM for 20mm holes

Post by RFGuy »

sehast wrote: Tue Feb 02, 2021 5:50 pm The reamer is just a reamer and I think you can only get it from Axminster, at least that is where I got mine.
Steve,

Thanks. I think TSO has it as well (see below). I don't think I have ever ordered from Axminster, but I am certainly gun shy on placing orders to the UK now. My first order to Benchdogs.uk.co came fast, but my 2nd order is stuck in shipping purgatory right now. They had a sale so I bought a few more items, but that was a mistake. First there were customs forms that were incorrect, then they complained about my address. As the recipient I can't correct any of it...only the company that shipped it can. They claim they have taken care of it, but the tracking hasn't changed for 2 weeks now since it got stuck. I like these guys - believe it is a small, family run company. However, I didn't expect my order to take over a month to get. Also, they just sent an email to everyone saying that they have now switched to DHL for all order shipping and guarantee orders to arrive within 3 days from having been shipped. This doesn't help me though because my order is stuck and probably will be eventually be declared a lost package.

https://tsoproducts.com/tools-equipment ... 0mm-holes/
📶RF Guy

Mark V 520 (Bought New '98) | 4" jointer | 6" beltsander | 12" planer | bandsaw | router table | speed reducer | univ. tool rest
Porter Cable 12" Compound Miter Saw | Rikon 8" Low Speed Bench Grinder w/CBN wheels | Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides
Festool (Emerald): DF 500 Q | RO 150 FEQ | OF 1400 EQ | TS 55 REQ | CT 26 E
DC3300 | Shopvac w/ClearVue CV06 Mini Cyclone | JDS AirTech 2000 | Sundstrom PAPR | Dylos DC1100 Pro particulate monitor
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reible
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Re: PARF REAM for 20mm holes

Post by reible »

Interesting that the hole gets larger the deeper you go, I was not expecting that. That has to mean the ream is fully tapered, right?

I'm all set to try it out and might get to it today. I'm trying to find a second collar to keep the slide from coming off when you pick it by the drill handle. Actually I have one just have to find it and see if I can locate a thumb screw for it so I don't have to keep track of another Allen wrench.

How much of the ream was out of the material when you found the sweet spot?

TSO would have saved me some money if they would have had them when I ordered since I just placed an order a few days ago. Anyway I see that you can't order it now as it is not in stock.

Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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reible
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Re: PARF REAM for 20mm holes

Post by reible »

Did a few hole and it seems to work really well. I tried to get a picture of a before and after but they did not turn out well. Visually the reamed hole does seem smoother, as expected. I only checked and worked on a small section of a top that I had out and mounted. Most of the holes were already just fine so no reason to do them. At a later time I have another top I did that I know has issues with tight holes and I'm really thinking that this will help with this.
ream1.jpg
ream1.jpg (162.25 KiB) Viewed 2179 times
Ed
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RFGuy
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Re: PARF REAM for 20mm holes

Post by RFGuy »

RFGuy wrote: Fri Jan 29, 2021 8:12 am
reible wrote: Wed Jan 27, 2021 3:24 pm I don't know how much time you spent getting the bushing aligned to the bit but if you had the bushing set up correctly and checked again when you went back the holes really shouldn't have gotten bigger. I have heard of people having issues due to bad alignment of the bushing/sub-base so I would check that first.

Ed
Thanks Ed. I think you nailed my problem here. In doing a search I found out that there are issues with guide bushings in my OF1400 router (see below). Essentially the design of the router base and how it mounts the guide bushings on the OF1400 can make it very difficult to have concentricity between the guide bushing and the bit. When I make my next MFT top I will either need to solve this with the OF1400 or use a different router. Of course, the reamer is another option for me to finish 20mm holes if I still have issues too.

https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/fest ... -solution/
I just stumbled across something new that I wasn't aware of and it is related to what I posted before on this thread. Previously I pointed out how I thought that I had issues with using my Festool router with a guide bushing to make an MFT style workbench. Essentially the way the guide bushing mounts on the Festool OF1400 is such that there can be an offset between the origin of the bit and the origin of the guide bushing, i.e. they are not concentric. So, I found a tool called a "Centering Mandrel" from Festool. Wondering if I can somehow adjust the mount for my guide bushings on this particular router using this centering mandrel? Also wondering if centering mandrels exist for other brand routers, i.e. is this a common reference tool in the industry? I had never heard of this specialty item before so thought I would ask the question here to find out if anyone has used something similar to this on a router before.

https://www.festoolusa.com/accessory/49 ... 8#Overview
FestoolCenteringMandrel.jpg
FestoolCenteringMandrel.jpg (13.17 KiB) Viewed 2013 times
📶RF Guy

Mark V 520 (Bought New '98) | 4" jointer | 6" beltsander | 12" planer | bandsaw | router table | speed reducer | univ. tool rest
Porter Cable 12" Compound Miter Saw | Rikon 8" Low Speed Bench Grinder w/CBN wheels | Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides
Festool (Emerald): DF 500 Q | RO 150 FEQ | OF 1400 EQ | TS 55 REQ | CT 26 E
DC3300 | Shopvac w/ClearVue CV06 Mini Cyclone | JDS AirTech 2000 | Sundstrom PAPR | Dylos DC1100 Pro particulate monitor
sehast
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Re: PARF REAM for 20mm holes

Post by sehast »

I have used one that is convex on the bottom and fits into the spindle on my mini mill to quickly find the center of existing holes but I have never used one on a router. To my knowledge Festool is the only one that allows an offset for guide bushings. Usually the mounting hole in the base is just assumed to be concentric with the collet.
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reible
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Re: PARF REAM for 20mm holes

Post by reible »

I have several versions of centering jigs. Some routers come with one if you get the "kit", but not all. They are available on the open market for a lot of the major brands and have various designs. Some have both a 1/4" and 1/2" shaft size for the two basic collets here in the US. I have not looked for metric versions but the Festool appears to cover 1/4" and 8mm.

I don't have the Festool one but to me it looks like it is for the 1010. The 1400 and 2200 have what are called self-centering systems and the 700 the guide bushings screw right in and are centered automatically.

I just did a set up on one of my routers to use the guide bushing so I have a few pictures I will share showing the general way it is done but you may have other quite different looking parts.

This router has an special insert that allows it to use what are referred to as porter cable style bushings. The idea here is that you can use larger bits if and when you need to and then still have the option of using guide bushings. I just leave the insert in. That is the metal part shown here:
gbu1.jpg
gbu1.jpg (166.37 KiB) Viewed 1989 times
The actual guide bushing goes in and the nut on the backside holds it in place. This is a tight fit with no slop and no room for adjustment. The two screws that hold the insert in do have slop and do allow for adjustment. In some cases the whole sub base is used for adjustment, especially routers that have the guide bushing area just built into the sub base.
gbu2.jpg
gbu2.jpg (157.21 KiB) Viewed 1989 times
So in my case I have a disk (white disk in picture) that is the right size to tight fit into the place where the guide bushing sets and has a centered hole for a 1/4" rod. So with the 1/4" rod mounted in the router and the disk in place of the guide bushing and the two screws loose the router is located at the center. Also shown is a one piece version that has both the 1/4" and the 1/2" option to mount in the router. If you normally keep a 1/2" collet in the router then this is a better option then swapping collets most of the time.
gbu3.jpg
gbu3.jpg (170.47 KiB) Viewed 1989 times
Now with the router and guide bushing held in place you can tighten the two screws. Bang done.
gbu4.jpg
gbu4.jpg (138.11 KiB) Viewed 1989 times
Since there are many different router set ups and centering jigs this is but one of them.

While once done it should stay for about ever unless you take off the sub base or switch routers in a base(which still should work but....). It is really easy to check and that is part of my normal set up for a project.

Ed
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reible
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Re: PARF REAM for 20mm holes

Post by reible »

I was going to pull out a couple more centering systems I have but getting to the Hitachi case would be too much work. However this is the cone that came with my Dewalt 618 router.
gbu5.jpg
gbu5.jpg (93.8 KiB) Viewed 1978 times
This is the one that came with a Milescraft bushing kit:
gbu6.jpg
gbu6.jpg (105.6 KiB) Viewed 1978 times
If I get some more time I might try and dig out a couple more...... or maybe this is enough already.

Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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