More On Disappointed In MiterSet

Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.

Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin

User avatar
dusty
Platinum Member
Posts: 21359
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Re: More On Disappointed In MiterSet

Post by dusty »

I think I understand what you envision BUT....how would you do a hold down that would work for the large variety of "small" pieces that you might need to cut.

Now I must admit that I have no experience cutting work pieces for segmented turning. I can't even envision how you might assembly pieces that were cut using all of the various angles provided by the MiterSet.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
DLB
Platinum Member
Posts: 1984
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2019 11:24 am
Location: Joshua Texas

Re: More On Disappointed In MiterSet

Post by DLB »

RFGuy wrote: Fri Mar 12, 2021 5:08 pm I have mostly just used my MiterSet Standard to set 90° on my Shopsmith miter gauge. For people like me that are lazy it works great for quickly and accurately setting the angle. I haven't used the other angles as much on it.
When used in this manner, how do the results of zeroing the miter gauge with the MiterSet produce results compare to the results of zeroing the miter gauge per the SS manual? Or are there too many variables to make this comparison? Lazy works for me, especially if it produces equivalent or better results.

- David
RFGuy
Platinum Member
Posts: 2740
Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2018 8:05 am
Location: a suburb of PHX, AZ

Re: More On Disappointed In MiterSet

Post by RFGuy »

DLB wrote: Sun Mar 14, 2021 11:07 am When used in this manner, how do the results of zeroing the miter gauge with the MiterSet produce results compare to the results of zeroing the miter gauge per the SS manual? Or are there too many variables to make this comparison? Lazy works for me, especially if it produces equivalent or better results.

- David
Thanks David. With patience, I get similar results squaring the miter gauge using the Shopsmith procedure to that of the MiterSet Standard. Using the MiterSet is much faster though in my experience.
📶RF Guy

Mark V 520 (Bought New '98) | 4" jointer | 6" beltsander | 12" planer | bandsaw | router table | speed reducer | univ. tool rest
Porter Cable 12" Compound Miter Saw | Rikon 8" Low Speed Bench Grinder w/CBN wheels | Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides
Festool (Emerald): DF 500 Q | RO 150 FEQ | OF 1400 EQ | TS 55 REQ | CT 26 E
DC3300 | Shopvac w/ClearVue CV06 Mini Cyclone | JDS AirTech 2000 | Sundstrom PAPR | Dylos DC1100 Pro particulate monitor
User avatar
dusty
Platinum Member
Posts: 21359
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Re: More On Disappointed In MiterSet

Post by dusty »

I thrive on these discussions.

What could be simpler than squaring the miter gauge to the miter track than using the MiterSet?

But...what good does that do you if the miter track is not parallel to the "face" of the blade?
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
User avatar
edflorence
Platinum Member
Posts: 621
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 8:14 pm
Location: Idaho Panhandle

Re: More On Disappointed In MiterSet

Post by edflorence »

dusty wrote: Sun Mar 14, 2021 11:30 am
What could be simpler than squaring the miter gauge to the miter track than using the MiterSet?

Well, sometimes I take the miter gauge, loosen the head, turn it upside down and set the bar in the slot and then snug the face of the gauge against the front rail of the table. As you point out, the table alignment has to be good for any method to work.

The hold downs for my (as yet) imaginary sled: my first thought is a couple of threaded rods set vertically to press down on the workpiece. If I get a chance later today I will try to post an image of what I am thinking.
Ed
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
User avatar
BuckeyeDennis
Platinum Member
Posts: 3683
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:03 pm
Location: Central Ohio

Re: More On Disappointed In MiterSet

Post by BuckeyeDennis »

dusty wrote: Sun Mar 14, 2021 11:30 am I thrive on these discussions.

What could be simpler than squaring the miter gauge to the miter track than using the MiterSet?

But...what good does that do you if the miter track is not parallel to the "face" of the blade?
If the saw blade is not parallel to the miter track, it will cut an ever-so-slight cove profile onto the end of the workpiece. But it will still be square to the workpiece reference edge (which is placed against the face of the miter gauge). That's assuming that the misalignment is not so bad that the workpiece hits the plate of the saw blade, of course.

I know that's counter-intuitive, but the fact is that all the cutting happens at the leading edge of the saw blade. And if you measure the distance from leading edge of the saw blade to the miter slot, it will be constant, regardless of their relative angle.

You could use the same miter-gauge setup in drill-press mode, and use a straight router bit to trim the end of the workpiece square. In that case, the angle of the miter track obviously makes no difference whatsoever -- you'll always get a straight square cut.
User avatar
dusty
Platinum Member
Posts: 21359
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Re: More On Disappointed In MiterSet

Post by dusty »

BuckeyeDennis wrote: Sun Mar 14, 2021 12:05 pm
dusty wrote: Sun Mar 14, 2021 11:30 am I thrive on these discussions.

What could be simpler than squaring the miter gauge to the miter track than using the MiterSet?

But...what good does that do you if the miter track is not parallel to the "face" of the blade?
If the saw blade is not parallel to the miter track, it will cut an ever-so-slight cove profile onto the end of the workpiece. But it will still be square to the workpiece reference edge (which is placed against the face of the miter gauge). That's assuming that the misalignment is not so bad that the workpiece hits the plate of the saw blade, of course.

I know that's counter-intuitive, but the fact is that all the cutting happens at the leading edge of the saw blade. And if you measure the distance from leading edge of the saw blade to the miter slot, it will be constant, regardless of their relative angle.

You could use the same miter-gauge setup in drill-press mode, and use a straight router bit to trim the end of the workpiece square. In that case, the angle of the miter track obviously makes no difference whatsoever -- you'll always get a straight square cut.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 34608
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Re: More On Disappointed In MiterSet

Post by JPG »

dusty wrote: Sun Mar 14, 2021 12:39 pm
BuckeyeDennis wrote: Sun Mar 14, 2021 12:05 pm
dusty wrote: Sun Mar 14, 2021 11:30 am I thrive on these discussions.

What could be simpler than squaring the miter gauge to the miter track than using the MiterSet?

But...what good does that do you if the miter track is not parallel to the "face" of the blade?
If the saw blade is not parallel to the miter track, it will cut an ever-so-slight cove profile onto the end of the workpiece. But it will still be square to the workpiece reference edge (which is placed against the face of the miter gauge). That's assuming that the misalignment is not so bad that the workpiece hits the plate of the saw blade, of course.

I know that's counter-intuitive, but the fact is that all the cutting happens at the leading edge of the saw blade. And if you measure the distance from leading edge of the saw blade to the miter slot, it will be constant, regardless of their relative angle.

You could use the same miter-gauge setup in drill-press mode, and use a straight router bit to trim the end of the workpiece square. In that case, the angle of the miter track obviously makes no difference whatsoever -- you'll always get a straight square cut.
???
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
edflorence
Platinum Member
Posts: 621
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 8:14 pm
Location: Idaho Panhandle

Re: More On Disappointed In MiterSet

Post by edflorence »

edflorence wrote: Sun Mar 14, 2021 11:39 am If I get a chance later today I will try to post an image of what I am thinking.
Here is a link to a page that shows more or less what I was thinking: http://segmentedturning.com/cutting.htm

It looks like my wheel has already been invented😁 And his clamping method is simpler and more practical than what I was envisioning.
Ed
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
User avatar
rpd
Platinum Member
Posts: 3039
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 3:22 am
Location: Victoria, B.C.

Re: More On Disappointed In MiterSet

Post by rpd »

Some good ideas for a sled in this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Yl-qDN1HtI
Ron Dyck
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
Post Reply