Installation tool for '56 toggle switch?

[Cavediver]

Hello all,
After (yet another) interruption to my '56 rehab schedule, I'm back at it!

I'm having problems reinstallng the toggle switch in the headstock. The recess for the switch prevents me from getting fingers or even pliers around the "nut" on the outside of the unit. The nut is really more of a disc with a threaded hole in the center and a slot in the face.
Check out the third photo in this post:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=37607&postcount=294
If I had a giant flat-bladed screwdriver with a gap in the center that would fit over the toggle switch, I'd be in great shape. Unfortunately, I don't...

So, how do I tighten that rnut and keep the switch pointing to 12:00 & 6:00?
Thanks!

[frank81]

Personally, I'd go finger tight, align the plate, stick a single screwdriver in one of the slots to hold it in alignment, and do the final tightening from inside the housing.

You don't need to tighten it down very hard so you shouldn't need a lot of reinforcement to hold it in place. Most people think they need 10x the torque required on everything, 13 ft-lbs is standard for spark plugs on an engine so consider how much less you would need here....and 13 ft-lbs is suprisingly light. I would go as far as saying pressing your thumb firmly on the surface should be enough and if that won't hold it you're overtightening.

[JPG]

Hello all,
After (yet another) interruption to my '56 rehab schedule, I'm back at it!

I'm having problems reinstallng the toggle switch in the headstock. The recess for the switch prevents me from getting fingers or even pliers around the "nut" on the outside of the unit. The nut is really more of a disc with a threaded hole in the center and a slot in the face.
Check out the third photo in this post:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=37607&postcount=294
If I had a giant flat-bladed screwdriver with a gap in the center that would fit over the toggle switch, I'd be in great shape. Unfortunately, I don't...

So, how do I tighten that rnut and keep the switch pointing to 12:00 & 6:00?
Thanks!

'Narrow', Fat bladed 'screwdriver' in the best slot(1 of 2). or skinny long nosed pliers with one 'point' in each slot.

The 'correct' tool looks like a nut driver with a round interior cavity(to clear the bat handle and shank', but with projections that engage the slots.

You could make a crude tool from 1/2" EMT conduit by grinding/filing the end to fit the slots.


P.S. It should have a nut and lockwasher between the switch and the inside of the headstock. You may have a crude anti-rotation nub in the casting hole. [Switch - nut - lockwasher - casting - outer nut(flat/lock washer optional)].

[wvthomas]

Here's an idea that might make it work. Further work could be to place a tube inside the slot, to keep the switch toggle centered, and not catch on the tangs of the tool. Maybe one of those aluminum tent pole tubes (to repair a tent pole tube) would make a good center tube.

[Ulma Doctor]

i was able to tactfully strike a blunted chisel to both tighten and loosen the nut.
this may not be the recommended method but it sure worked in a pinch.
the correct tool would be ideal.
most times i would not recommend doing what i do anyway, just another way to skin a cat.

[benush26]

I guess I might try trimming off an edge of a large fender washer so the hole is large enough to fit around the toggle, then putting it in a vise and bending to 45 degrees (or what ever angle allows you to get the two ends in the slits and still not hit the safety pieces on the side of the switch) at the mid point . then you would have two flat prongs to fit in the slots yet the majority of the washer could be pressed against the body of the safety ridges to help keep it from turning. Those washers come in many thicknesses so one should fit, but even it was a bit to thick you could grind it thinner for a custom fit.

[billmayo]

I find that with a hack saw and grinder, I can make extra sockets to fit a lot of these unique requirements. The ratch handles makes using them real easy.

[everettdavis]

Hello all,
After (yet another) interruption to my '56 rehab schedule, I'm back at it!

I'm having problems reinstallng the toggle switch in the headstock. The recess for the switch prevents me from getting fingers or even pliers around the "nut" on the outside of the unit. The nut is really more of a disc with a threaded hole in the center and a slot in the face.
Check out the third photo in this post:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=37607&postcount=294
If I had a giant flat-bladed screwdriver with a gap in the center that would fit over the toggle switch, I'd be in great shape. Unfortunately, I don't...

So, how do I tighten that rnut and keep the switch pointing to 12:00 & 6:00?
Thanks!

Toggle Switch Face Nut.jpg (31.87 KiB) Viewed 5253 times

Search for Toggle Switch Face Nut Tool and you likely will find two types and depending on your location you may even find one locally. Some are also marketed as a Panel Nut Wrench. You could also fabricate one from an old socket at your grinder etc.

I would still hand tighten with the tool opposed to possibly breaking it off with a ratchet.

Toggle Switch Face Nut Tool.jpg (7.04 KiB) Viewed 5253 times

Face Nut Tool.jpg (25.81 KiB) Viewed 5167 times

Freightliner, Peterbilt, Kenworth and perhaps others use slotted face nuts to allow proper torque to prevent them from vibrating loose. On a Shopsmith headstock that would make sense as well.

The one that is based on a socket will more readily fit between the switch edge shields on the Shopsmith. Yes the edge shields are there to keep you from breaking off the switch while moving lumber around the headstock in addition to providing a safety lockout for kids.