Zero clearance plates

mbcabinetmaker · Post by **mbcabinetmaker** » Fri Feb 18, 2011 7:28 pm

Anyone used these (D) plates on their 510/520? Do they set flush with the table? I know that I can make them but I would prefer to buy if they are of good quality and set flush. My regular plate does not. It is a little lower than the table and drives me crazy. I have used duct tape to build it up but it only last so long.

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michaeltoc · Post by **michaeltoc** » Fri Feb 18, 2011 7:52 pm

They are just like the stock plate - sitting slightly below the table surface. (about 0.020")

damagi · Post by **damagi** » Fri Feb 18, 2011 8:00 pm

I think the "help kit" has shims just for this purpose

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Fri Feb 18, 2011 8:06 pm

AT $28 I don't know if I would buy one. ZC inserts are somewhat expendable. I still use some 1/4 " plywood for ZCI's and have good results. $28 versus a few cents for scrap ply----- no contest. I make several blanks at a time and keep them on hand.
Bill

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Feb 19, 2011 4:50 am

mbcabinetmaker wrote:Anyone used these (D) plates on their 510/520? Do they set flush with the table? I know that I can make them but I would prefer to buy if they are of good quality and set flush. My regular plate does not. It is a little lower than the table and drives me crazy. I have used duct tape to build it up but it only last so long.

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I have two(2) that came in my original order twenty(25) years ago. They do fit but are just a little low. To be flush with the table, I need a couple pieces of paper shim.

I make my own now, using 1/4" MDF reinforced in the center with a second thickness of 1/4" MDF. I have routed out some from 1/2" MDF.

This looks like an ideal job for an OPR.

Problem I have is the blade slot. When you lower the table to cut the clearance slot, it is only blade circumference (maximum). Now you have to lengthen the slot to facilitate the riving knife. If done of the table saw, this can be a kick back waiting to happen. This calls for a jig if you do many of them.

michaeltoc · Post by **michaeltoc** » Sat Feb 19, 2011 7:06 am

dusty wrote: Problem I have is the blade slot. When you lower the table to cut the clearance slot, it is only blade circumference (maximum). Now you have to lengthen the slot to facilitate the riving knife. If done of the table saw, this can be a kick back waiting to happen. This calls for a jig if you do many of them.

Or extend the blade slot using a 1/8" straight router bit

stephen_a._draper · Post by **stephen_a._draper** » Sat Feb 19, 2011 7:31 am

I have the model 500. I make mine out of 1/4 inch hardboard laminated with formica. It sits exactly flush with the table.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Feb 19, 2011 7:37 am

michaeltoc wrote:Or extend the blade slot using a 1/8" straight router bit

Thank you for the comment. I'll have to look into that because I feel real uncomfortable plunging that ZCI down onto the blade.

Actually, I did not know I could get a router bit like that.

michaeltoc · Post by **michaeltoc** » Sat Feb 19, 2011 8:54 am

dusty wrote:Actually, I did not know I could get a router bit like that.

http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbit ... 586_1847+1

joedw00 · Post by **joedw00** » Sat Feb 19, 2011 9:12 am

I use 1/4 " plywood scrap, it us a lot cheaper.

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