Couple of way newbie questions. Is there anything that is not in the manual that I need to know about using the SS as a table saw. I have in and out feeders that I build a long time ago that will help with the stabilization but I have honestly not used a table saw in ~15 years.
I have been going through the setup the big questions are.
Where should I set the spindle length? I can move everything around so should it be as close to the motor as possible or is that not a good idea.
Besides standard setup like making sure everything is true is there any little thing that I could miss that is specific to a SS?
Are the collets that SS provides strong enough with simply the set screw or am I missing another attachment point. I don't see anything in the older manual that I have. It seems a little "hooky" to have that much torque on that little engagement.
I have the shields in place and think I am pretty much ready to spin up for the first time to make sure my angle is good.
Funny I can stand in front of a lathe going full steam but the tablesaw scares me out of my wits.
Really old restored Mark 5, Jointer, Sander, Lathe Duplicator, thickness planer (Home Made)
ShopSmith Stand Alone BandSaw
Sherline CNC Micro Mill
Edco Knee Drill Press
Sawdust.
Table Saw safety?
Moderator: admin
As for the connection, the fit is good and the spindle nose has a reverse taper so that when the setscrew is tightened, if for some very unusual reason it should loosen, it has to back all of the way out and "climb the hill." I have never had the connection become even the least bit loose.
1983 Mark V- beltsander, jigsaw, Stripsander,jointer, bandsaw-double carriage and tables with molders and drums, Over Arm Pin Routers(Freestanding x 2)Second Mark V.
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a1gutterman
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3653
- Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 12:45 am
- Location: "close to" Seattle
Hi wearymicrobe,
IMHO, as long as you followed the instructions in the manual, you are "good to go" as they say. Like MT, I have never had a bit of trouble with the single set screw coming loose. I have always had the quill pretty much all the way in, using it to make minor adjustments to center the blade in the table insert. If you have the big rubber ring around your way tube, just push the carriage against it and the table is in good position to lower around the blade (I believe that is exactly what the rubber ring is for). The only other things that I can think of are to keep safe: Stand to the safe side of the blade in case of kick-back, use push-sticks, feather-boards, push-blocks and fence straddlers, use a dust collector and/or respirator, use eye and hearing protection and do knot expose more blade above the work piece then necessary. One more very important thing: HAVE FUN!
IMHO, as long as you followed the instructions in the manual, you are "good to go" as they say. Like MT, I have never had a bit of trouble with the single set screw coming loose. I have always had the quill pretty much all the way in, using it to make minor adjustments to center the blade in the table insert. If you have the big rubber ring around your way tube, just push the carriage against it and the table is in good position to lower around the blade (I believe that is exactly what the rubber ring is for). The only other things that I can think of are to keep safe: Stand to the safe side of the blade in case of kick-back, use push-sticks, feather-boards, push-blocks and fence straddlers, use a dust collector and/or respirator, use eye and hearing protection and do knot expose more blade above the work piece then necessary. One more very important thing: HAVE FUN!
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
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flashbacpt
- Gold Member
- Posts: 156
- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 9:41 pm
- Location: Concord, Ca.
Table Saw Safety
Keep the fear! It is a good thing! Worry if you lose it! Now is the time to use that fear to your advantage!
Develop some good habits when operating in the table saw mode, and do not take any shortcuts! This is when trouble strikes!
Some good habits: Develop a check procedure such as making sure that all your guards are in place, that your quill is locked, that the headstock is locked in place along with the saw table, both up and down, and locked on the way tubes. Use your push sticks when needed, even if it means walking to the other side of your shop! No shortcuts!
Don't stand directly behind your wood when pushing it thru the saw!
Always have proper wood support going into the blade and coming out the other side!
If you feel tired, or more important, are tired, put away the tools for another day! Making mistakes such as cutting the wrong piece, or cutting the wrong size are minor compared to a physical injury.
"They" say "Accidents happen" but don't believe it! Accidents happen because the "pilot" was tired, taking a shortcut, not using the proper guards, support etc.
Best of Luck!
John
Develop some good habits when operating in the table saw mode, and do not take any shortcuts! This is when trouble strikes!
Some good habits: Develop a check procedure such as making sure that all your guards are in place, that your quill is locked, that the headstock is locked in place along with the saw table, both up and down, and locked on the way tubes. Use your push sticks when needed, even if it means walking to the other side of your shop! No shortcuts!
Don't stand directly behind your wood when pushing it thru the saw!
Always have proper wood support going into the blade and coming out the other side!
If you feel tired, or more important, are tired, put away the tools for another day! Making mistakes such as cutting the wrong piece, or cutting the wrong size are minor compared to a physical injury.
"They" say "Accidents happen" but don't believe it! Accidents happen because the "pilot" was tired, taking a shortcut, not using the proper guards, support etc.
Best of Luck!
John
The comments above pretty much say it all. The ShopSmith platform gives a excellent work surface. Make sure your wheels are up, if you have them, so that the platform is firm to the ground. Take your time. Make test cuts before you take out the good wood. And have fun. By the way, I have not yet tried the lathe, even though I have all the equipment needed to start turning. Guess I too am intimidated by new equipment. Have fun.
Gary Kalyn
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
wearymicrobe
Welcome to the forum. Pretty much everything that I could say has been said already. I have had my SS since 93 and have never had any problems with cutting with the saw. You said you had a restored mark 5. One important item not mentioned is the blade. Always use a sharp blade. One safety thing I do is always unplug my machine whenever I am making any change over, especially when dealing with the saw blade. This eliminates the issue of accidentally bumping the on/off switch which could be bad. I always use my upper and lower guard and riving knife whenever possible when I am making a cut. Make sure you have the correct speed for sawing before cutting and that the material to be cut is clear of the blade before turning on the saw. It is good to have respect for what your machine could do if you violate safety. The red zone is there to keep you safe. Enjoy and make some sawdust.
Welcome to the forum. Pretty much everything that I could say has been said already. I have had my SS since 93 and have never had any problems with cutting with the saw. You said you had a restored mark 5. One important item not mentioned is the blade. Always use a sharp blade. One safety thing I do is always unplug my machine whenever I am making any change over, especially when dealing with the saw blade. This eliminates the issue of accidentally bumping the on/off switch which could be bad. I always use my upper and lower guard and riving knife whenever possible when I am making a cut. Make sure you have the correct speed for sawing before cutting and that the material to be cut is clear of the blade before turning on the saw. It is good to have respect for what your machine could do if you violate safety. The red zone is there to keep you safe. Enjoy and make some sawdust.
Ron from Lewisburg, TN
Hi Weary...! Welcome to the Forum and keep asking questions!
You didn't say is your Mark V has been restored to a 510 or 520 or if it is a fully restored 500. You didn't say that you have an upper and lower saw guard. BTW - I believe the collets you refer to - if they hold the saw blade are in fact arbors.
I usually saw with my spindle in the retracted position. The reason for this is, when the table is up and the headstock is slid beneath the table, the rubber ring on the back way tube will serve as a spacer to center the blade in the saw insert plate when the quill is retracted.
You mentioned standing in front of a lathe. This is proper, but don't EVER stand in front of a whirling saw blade. Always stand to one side or the other.
If your machine has been upgraded to a 510 or 520, you can obtain a new manual from the Shopsmith Company.
You mentioned starting up the Mark V to see if your angle is good. You should really see if it is square prior to starting it up.
I'm probably the exception, but I have had a saw arbor come loose while sawing. It never did come off but when stopping the saw I noticed the arbor and blade were loose on the spindle. This happened to me sever times using the same brand new arbor. I have since switched allen set screw with another and this fixed the problem. It can happen, so be careful.
You didn't say is your Mark V has been restored to a 510 or 520 or if it is a fully restored 500. You didn't say that you have an upper and lower saw guard. BTW - I believe the collets you refer to - if they hold the saw blade are in fact arbors.
I usually saw with my spindle in the retracted position. The reason for this is, when the table is up and the headstock is slid beneath the table, the rubber ring on the back way tube will serve as a spacer to center the blade in the saw insert plate when the quill is retracted.
You mentioned standing in front of a lathe. This is proper, but don't EVER stand in front of a whirling saw blade. Always stand to one side or the other.
If your machine has been upgraded to a 510 or 520, you can obtain a new manual from the Shopsmith Company.
You mentioned starting up the Mark V to see if your angle is good. You should really see if it is square prior to starting it up.
I'm probably the exception, but I have had a saw arbor come loose while sawing. It never did come off but when stopping the saw I noticed the arbor and blade were loose on the spindle. This happened to me sever times using the same brand new arbor. I have since switched allen set screw with another and this fixed the problem. It can happen, so be careful.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
All I can add is, MAKE SURE you know where the blade is and your HANDS.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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edflorence
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 679
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 8:14 pm
- Location: Idaho Panhandle
Hi WearyMicrobe...
Welcome to the Forum. As usual, the collective wisdom and experience of the group here has resulted in some really good responses to your questions...the only additional offering I can make is to take a tip from "Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone", the SS ussers handbook and suggest that you get in the habit of making a "five-point check" every single time before you turn on the power. I learned this years ago and I believe it is an essential part of using the saw safely. The "five point check" only takes a few seconds...when you are ready to begin sawing, but before the power is turned on, reach down and be sure that all five locks--power plant, carriage, table height, table tilt and quill--are snugged up and secure. Then go ahead and fire up the motor.
Welcome to the Forum. As usual, the collective wisdom and experience of the group here has resulted in some really good responses to your questions...the only additional offering I can make is to take a tip from "Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone", the SS ussers handbook and suggest that you get in the habit of making a "five-point check" every single time before you turn on the power. I learned this years ago and I believe it is an essential part of using the saw safely. The "five point check" only takes a few seconds...when you are ready to begin sawing, but before the power is turned on, reach down and be sure that all five locks--power plant, carriage, table height, table tilt and quill--are snugged up and secure. Then go ahead and fire up the motor.
Ed
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
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wearymicrobe
- Silver Member
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2008 10:10 am
So some clarification, I do have the upper and lower guard sets but they were purchased after the machine. So I am guessing its a 500. I do have a bunch of the 510 parts though that were purchased over the years by the previous owner.
I have had the set screw back out on me twice while using the lathe and I have wrapped the screw with a little bit of plumber tape to combat that. So far no more backouts and its easy to reverse with no modifications to the machine.
I have a couple featherboards that I made a number of years ago and have two of the factory ones. I think the push sticks are a little bit to short that are
provided with the machine so I made a few more in the machine shop today.
I am going to fire it up tonight on some cheap pine with the new blades, then work my way up to the dado blades that I have.
Anybody have some plans for a nice hope chest that they can share.
I have had the set screw back out on me twice while using the lathe and I have wrapped the screw with a little bit of plumber tape to combat that. So far no more backouts and its easy to reverse with no modifications to the machine.
I have a couple featherboards that I made a number of years ago and have two of the factory ones. I think the push sticks are a little bit to short that are
provided with the machine so I made a few more in the machine shop today.
I am going to fire it up tonight on some cheap pine with the new blades, then work my way up to the dado blades that I have.
Anybody have some plans for a nice hope chest that they can share.
Really old restored Mark 5, Jointer, Sander, Lathe Duplicator, thickness planer (Home Made)
ShopSmith Stand Alone BandSaw
Sherline CNC Micro Mill
2hp Edco Knee Drill Press
1953 BridgePort with DR and Feeder
ShopSmith Stand Alone BandSaw
Sherline CNC Micro Mill
2hp Edco Knee Drill Press
1953 BridgePort with DR and Feeder