Quill Spring

[dusty]

Has anyone developed a fool proof method for rehooking and rewinding the quill spring?

I thought that I could do it but I have several whacks in my fingers and hand that show proof positive that I don't have this task down pat.

This has been frustrating enough that I just might buy a new quill.

[JPG]

Has anyone develop a fool proof method for rehooking and rewinding the quill spring?

I thought that I could do it but I have several whacks in my fingers and hand that show proof positive that I don't have this task down pat.

This has been frustrating enough that I just might buy a new quill.

Are you having a problem:

a)hooking the spring on the 'stud'?

b)keeping the spring 'hooked' on the stud?

c)getting the spring tensioned*?

d)getting the tensioned spring into the housing?


z)All the above?

*tensioned to allow insertion back into the housing.

[mickyd]

Has anyone develop a fool proof method for rehooking and rewinding the quill spring?

I thought that I could do it but I have several whacks in my fingers and hand that show proof positive that I don't have this task down pat.

This has been frustrating enough that I just might buy a new quill.

I have a good method but can't explain it. It involves a thin flat screwdriver, coordination, and prayer. Seond body works the best but I am able to do it alone now.

Too bad I don't have a video camera or I'd upload it to you tube. Sorry. Maybe someone else could that is successful at it??

[dusty]

Are you having a problem:

a)hooking the spring on the 'stud'?

b)keeping the spring 'hooked' on the stud?

c)getting the spring tensioned*?

d)getting the tensioned spring into the housing?


z)All the above?

*tensioned to allow insertion back into the housing.

You might say - All of the above!:o

I know not to turn the quill backward (when it is installed). When I am holding it in my hands there are two CCW directions depending on orientation. Bottom line, I unhooked it by turning it the wrong direction. I don't even know why I was turning it. Then after many unsuccessful attempts to rehook, I decided to remove the spring from the housing.

Now you have the picture. It amounts to a table top full of parts that you might not recognize unless you did something dump like I have.

Actually, the last option is probably the most applicable. I can wind the spring using a couple different methods but while trying to get it back in the housing I lose control and it whacks the daylights out of my fingers.

Bill Mayo highly recommends wearing gloves when doing this. I can not work in gloves!. Bandages have become my preferred hand wrapping.

[JPG]

You might say - All of the above!:o

I know not to turn the quill backward (when it is installed). When I am holding it in my hands there are two CCW directions depending on orientation. Bottom line, I unhooked it by turning it the wrong direction. I don't even know why I was turning it. Then after many unsuccessful attempts to rehook, I decided to remove the spring from the housing.

Now you have the picture. It amounts to a table top full of parts that you might not recognize unless you did something dump like I have.

Actually, the last option is probably the most applicable. I can wind the spring using a couple different methods but while trying to get it back in the housing I lose control and it whacks the daylights out of my fingers.

Bill Mayo highly recommends wearing gloves when doing this. I can not work in gloves!. Bandages have become my preferred hand wrapping.

Since the spring is 'out', look at the radius on the end where the 'tapered' hole is. Its radius(under the hole) needs to be just slightly smaller than the shaft. This allows the spring to slightly grip the shaft. Depending upon the height of the 'pin' head, it may help to form(bend) the end slightly so the 'top' of the spring presses against the bottom of the 'pin head'. Both items just mentioned help prevent the spring from inadvertently slipping off the head.

Of course this must be done with the spring spiraling around the shaft.(the housing is removed from the spring while doing this). This gives some room to 'pull' the spring under the pin head(long nose pliers).

Once the pin is securely positioned into the tapered hole in the spring,
take the housing, insert one end of the opposite end of the spring(the bent end) slightly into the slot in the housing. This 'captures' the loose end of the spring and allows rotating the shaft so as to 'tighten' the spring around the shaft. i.e. hold the housing with the loose end of the spring captured in the slot, and rotate the shaft. As the spring is drawn tighter onto the shaft, the outer dimension of the spring will also decrease until it will slip into the housing fully. The bent end of the spring will probably be stubborn re entry, and direct pressure on it will get it into fully inserted position.

That is what 'works' 4me!:)

Oh! Gloves not necessary(but DO make sure the bent end of the spring stays in the housing slot:D)!

[dusty]

Since the spring is 'out', look at the radius on the end where the 'tapered' hole is. Its radius(under the hole) needs to be just slightly smaller than the shaft. This allows the spring to slightly grip the shaft. Depending upon the height of the 'pin' head, it may help to form(bend) the end slightly so the 'top' of the spring presses against the bottom of the 'pin head'. Both items just mentioned help prevent the spring from inadvertently slipping off the head.

Of course this must be done with the spring spiraling around the shaft.(the housing is removed from the spring while doing this). This gives some room to 'pull' the spring under the pin head(long nose pliers).

Once the pin is securely positioned into the tapered hole in the spring,
take the housing, insert one end of the opposite end of the spring(the bent end) slightly into the slot in the housing. This 'captures' the loose end of the spring and allows rotating the shaft so as to 'tighten' the spring around the shaft. i.e. hold the housing with the loose end of the spring captured in the slot, and rotate the shaft. As the spring is drawn tighter onto the shaft, the outer dimension of the spring will also decrease until it will slip into the housing fully. The bent end of the spring will probably be stubborn re entry, and direct pressure on it will get it into fully inserted position.

That is what 'works' 4me!:)

Oh! Gloves not necessary(but DO make sure the bent end of the spring stays in the housing slot:D)!

Sounds good and logical. The only problem is execution.

That very last recommendation (or warning) - just how do you propose that I do that. That is the flying end that has been beating the daylights out of my hands and fingers. If I could do that I would have been done with this at 9 am.

[mickyd]

Sounds good and logical. The only problem is execution.

That very last recommendation (or warning) - just how do you propose that I do that. That is the flying end that has been beating the daylights out of my hands and fingers. If I could do that I would have been done with this at 9 am.

I hit the od with a nylon hammer and it closed up the gap tight, holding onto the spring.

[horologist]

Sounds similar to putting a clock mainspring back into the barrel. I've never taken this portion of my Shopsmith apart and it is pretty much the only thing in the headstock that wasn't removed during the Power Pro upgrade.
For clocks there are all sorts of tools for installing springs but I'm not sure any of this would apply in this case. Anyone have photos?

Troy

[JPG]

Sounds good and logical. The only problem is execution.

That very last recommendation (or warning) - just how do you propose that I do that. That is the flying end that has been beating the daylights out of my hands and fingers. If I could do that I would have been done with this at 9 am.

Actually it fits in to the slot fairly securely since it is going in at a bias.

Just keep pressure(I use my left thumb while holding the housing in my left hand) pushing the spring in so as to prevent it 'coming out'.

By using the wing nut on the opposite end of the shaft(quill LOCK) the shaft is easier to turn/hold while pushing the collapsed spring into the housing.

Key to this method is the use of the housing/slot to contain the bent end of the spring and provide a more 'comfortable' handle for holding the end while 'collapsing' the spring. The quill lock wing nut provides a better way to rotate the shaft.

Thought I had submitted this earlier. Sorry re delay!