Elbotool on Shopsmith Review

[roy_okc]

A month or so ago I asked for ideas to mount an Elbotool lathe hollowing tool to my Shopsmith. After some ideas and discussion here and with Stan Townsend, the inventor, we have a solution.

Stan figured out that he could use a piece of 2" pipe turned down slightly at one end to fit into the SS's tailstock (see pics ElbotoolShopsmithAdapter.JPG and AdapterInTailstock.JPG). Note that there are two steps in the tailstock, one over 2" and the outer one a bit under 2", with the Ebotool mount designed for a max opening of 2" this means that the adapter isn't going to fit perfectly in the tailstock; however, I have had zero problems so far with it mounted in a single set screw tailstock. With the adapter in the tailstock and the tailstock in the SS, I attached and adjusted the Elbotool to get it level (ElbotoolMountedOnAdapter.JPG).

I bought a spare tailstock to mount the adapter as I knew that the tailstock would have to be raised higher than normal (TailstockRaised.JPG). Once I got it to the right height, I dropped the stop collars down and tightened them in place. I mounted up the rest of the Elbotool parts, made additional adjustments to the height and rotation, and I was all set (ElbotoolReady.JPG). I'd recommend reviewing the Elbotool site for installation, adjustment, and use.

How well does it work on the SS? Very well. I consider myself a veteran beginner, with mostly small spindle work (many pens, trinkets) and a couple large projects (lamps, an attempt at something that resembles a bowl). I had thought for some time that it would be nice to turn hollow forms, but I knew that I was nowhere near ready to try to use traditional hollowing tools. With the Elbotool, though, I've now turned two vases, each with restricted 1" - 1-1/2" openings and wider insides; the second received several compliments at the local woodturning group's "bring back" give away last week.

The laser pointer helps you determine the wall thickness. Determine your desired thickness and simply aim it that distance away from the cutting tool tip. When the laser beam "falls" off the front side, you are at your desired thickness.

The tool is well made. I can't feel any vertical flex between the bars by hand, although I can raise it up maybe 3/16" at the left end by raising the tool rest. The articulation is very smooth. The standard cutting tool can be adjusted to several different angles, allowing straight penetrating cuts through greater than 90 degree cuts that allow you to have the restricted opening and wider lower opening.

Stan sells various adapters that let you connect other hollowing tools or to use to make your own out of various pieces of metal (Stan mentioned that he's used Allen wrenches shaped and sharpened to do some very small openings (see his gallery)). The 3/4" main opening allow using any round 3/4" arm (or smaller diameters with the aforementioned adapters, such as Don Pencil's Scorpion, Kelton, or Rolly Munro.

Issues:

With the standard 14" length 3/4" diameter round hollowing arm (I recommend the round one) and the headstock to the far left, there is not a lot of room left to maneuver with longer pieces, especially when initially entering a piece. I'll likely buy a spare arm and cut it down a few inches (there is also a shorter arm pictured, that may also work).

My '83 SS had the single bearing quill. I experienced a lot of vibration in it with even minimal sideways pressure. I just put in a new double bearing quill which helped a lot, but still get some vibration, possibly from the chuck adapter, that I need to eliminate. I'm also planning on building an inline skate wheel steady rest to help reduce problems from lateral force as well as an extra measure of safety.

The laser mount really needs to go on the square bar with at least one bolt, as it tends to rotate on the round bar, especially with the vibration I'm experiencing--probably this is less of an issue when vibration is eliminated. The laser rod is a tad short for this. I'm hoping to find the same diameter rod a couple inches longer at the hardware store later today.

The turning vortex will be hitting my wallet to purchase various adapters and other hollowing tools.

Stan doesn't yet have this part kit (the adapter and two longer bolts) listed on his web site. I won't list the price I paid, as he said it could be a bit higher or lower when/if he actively sells it; however, I felt it was a very reasonable price. Send him an email or call him if you're interested.

Have fun,
Roy

[charlese]

Thanks for your very comprehensive followup review of the Elbow Tool. Glad you were able to get it designed and adapted to your Mark V. Amazing that you have already been able to make a couple of narrow necked vases.

Enjoy, and thanks again for your followup report.

[chiroindixon]

I'm intrigued. I too am halfway decent with spindle turning but hollow forms have kicked my butt. My two attempts at bowls sit sadly on a shelf, daring me to try again.

Several master turners in our Quad Cities club use similar but far more expensive guide bar systems to do pieces that appear in galleries and museums. This system looks to be effective and at a reasonable cost.

So.... if this can be ordered with the SS adapter, I think I see where some of my "W" cash may go.

Doc

[woodburner]

About the vibration you are feeling, two things come to mind.

1. Trying to take too deep of a cut. This happens with most hollowing tools on most lathes. The Shopsmith is comparitively light as far as lathes go, which doesn't help the problem. A light touch is recommended, especially with a hollowing jig attached to the Shopsmith.

2. Speed and wood balance. Make sure you turn your hollow vessel blank down on the outside until it is balanced, and that you are not trying to turn at too fast a speed.

As you discussed earlier, a hollow vessel steady rest will help tremendously. A friend helped me make one by cutting out the steel parts on his plasma cutter. It has really helped in creating a smoother cut in my hollow vessels.

Hope this advice helps.

[roy_okc]

Woodburner,

Thanks for the suggestions.

1. This happens with a very light cut.

2. The outside is turned, runs very smooth without touching any steel to wood. I've tried a variety of speeds, from slowest, up through 'G' or so.

I'm going to try a thick rubber washer between the chuck and the adapter to see if that helps.

I need to look around this site for steady rest ideas that others have made.

Thanks,
Roy

[charlese]

Hi Roy! This may be a stupid question, but I'll ask it anyway. When you were getting that vibration, are you sure that the headstock lock on the way tubes was secure? I did a little turning today without the tail stock and got some vibration - then found I hadn't tightened down the headstock. A simple twist of the wrist cured it all.

[greitz]

Along with Chuck's suggestion- I sometimes forget to tighten the quill lock after I drill out the hole in a bud vase. That causes some vibration when I try to finish the top.

Gary

[roy_okc]

Chuck, Gary,

Thanks for the suggestion, I checked to make sure everything was locked, still had some vibration. I put a rubber washer between the adapter and chuck which helped reduce vibration a bit, but didn't eliminate it. I may have to break down and buy a better chuck to see if that is where my problem is.

Also, here's a pic of the second item I turned using the Elbotool. It's spalted silver maple, about 9" tall. The walls are probably 3/16" or so thick.

Roy

[charlese]

Pretty vase!! Pretty wood! Hope you get you vibration issue fixed soon.

[a1gutterman]

Very unique, Roy! I like it!