Bandsaw Blade Tracking Adjustments Etc.

[JPG]

Gene: De Nada

Dusty: Yes indeedy re tweaks unless all the earlier stuff is verified first!


P.S. the 'anti-slop' screw is NOT brass. I think I said it was brass in either this thread or elsewhere.

My bad!:o

[alfatipo]

I went through cleaning, lubing and adjusting my bandsaw this week. Took several hours. I used the Shopsmith bandsaw manual and parts list (manual refers to numbered parts on the parts list).

I also treated it to a new blade as the one installed was a little bent and made a clicking sound with the saw running. Not checked if there are preferred blades; I got a couple by Olsen and a Timber Wolf(?) from a not quite local Woodcraft.

My main frustration was the upper guide bearing. No matter how I adjusted the upper guide assembly/guard tension the back of the blade would be in contact with the bearing. Just kissing it but contact that rotates the bearing at all points. Moving the blade side to side you can't detect it touching the bearing but there is zero clearance.

First cut and the blade twisted and the cut was not straight. Hmm. Increased tension and it was a lot better. Practiced with scrap wood and was happy with the cut.

So two questions;
What effect does zero clearance have when sawing and,
how important is blade tension referenced to the SS bandsaw presets?

The Timber Wolf instructions refers to adjusting blade tension with the saw running (doesn't sound too safe) so that band chatter is eliminated (don't have the package with me for exact wording).

Lastly, rubber or neoprene tires (guess this is question #3)?

[JPG]

[quote="alfatipo"]I went through cleaning, lubing and adjusting my bandsaw this week. Took several hours. I used the Shopsmith bandsaw manual and parts list (manual refers to numbered parts on the parts list).

I also treated it to a new blade as the one installed was a little bent and made a clicking sound with the saw running. Not checked if there are preferred blades]
Last question first - I have only had experience with the original badly cracked tires on my bandsaw. I have not yet determined that replacement is needed. At this point I am inclined to replace them with rubber as I am somewhat skeptical of the temperature tolerance of the urethane ones.

Tension question - I consider the marks to be a recommend 'starting' point for ss blades. Cutting action and adjusting tension to improve operation always an option regardless of what brand blade is being used.

Now for the 'hard' one. That bearing adjustment is a real booger to get right. Tension is affected. Post angle is affected. bearing clearance is affected. All screw adjustments interact. Careful thought re what to tweak and in what combination and in what amount and on and on. To get the bearing to move away from the back of the blade, requires adjusting the upper and lower screws the same amount and direction and readjusting the anti-slop screw the opposing direction. Then locking them with the lock nut without disturbing the setting just made. If the blade just kisses(does not deflect the blade) the bearing at top and bottom and in between, you got it pretty good and probably is best left alone. Keep in mind a very small adjustment is needed to create a very small clearance.

[reible]

I have setting the tension for the timber wolf blades to look forward to this spring, same for the woodslicer. On my other bandsaw I can follow the procedure as stated by their instructions. In both cases the tension is less then the indicator on the bandsaw show for that size blade. It also goes along with the advertizements indicate about lower tension.

Until I really do one of these operations I can not comment of what changes will be require for proper adjustment. Perhaps someone else should start a thread about lower tension adjustments on the shopsmith bandsaw based on what they have done when mounting these type blades.

I know I'd enjoy reading about it.

Ed

[JPG]

I have setting the tension for the timber wolf blades to look forward to this spring, same for the woodslicer. On my other bandsaw I can follow the procedure as stated by their instructions. In both cases the tension is less then the indicator on the bandsaw show for that size blade. It also goes along with the advertizements indicate about lower tension.

Until I really do one of these operations I can not comment of what changes will be require for proper adjustment. Perhaps someone else should start a thread about lower tension adjustments on the shopsmith bandsaw based on what they have done when mounting these type blades.

I know I'd enjoy reading about it.

Ed

Anybody had a reason to think too much tension is detrimental?(other than bearing wear)

[dusty]

Anybody had a reason to think too much tension is detrimental?(other than bearing wear)

Yes. I think that too much tension, especially for a long time, may cause the upper wheel to lean forward. This would eventually cause a tracking issue or even the blade coming off the wheel.

On the other hand, properly tensioned - I do not believe that leaving the blade tensioned when not in use will create a problem. I have done that for as long as I have owned the two Shopsmith bandsaws.

I know there are many out there that disagree and I am not going to debate it. This is my opinion and I'm sticking to it.

[moose]

No debate needed Dusty. I have had my bandsaw for well over 10 years under tension the entire time and it runs today just as it came from the factory. The only modifications I've made to the saw was the addition of ceramic guides which over time have shown no wear.

[db5]

I just read this and converted the entire article with pictures to a Word document. I like to have things so I can easily print them out and keep in a notebook for easy reference. If anyone wants a copy just PM me with your email address and I'll send it.

[keakap]

I w...g).

Lastly, rubber or neoprene tires (guess this is question #3)?

You couldn't pay me enough for me to try the urethane "glueless" tires again.

[keakap]

Tweaking is sometimes not a good thing. If your bandsaw needs tweaking, this thread is an excellent tutorial but if your bandsaw is already tuned - this thread and the tutorial could have you saying words the kids best not hear.

If done from scratch, bandsaw alignment can be an all day task.

Good luck with your tweaks.

All day task indeed!
A recent band saw crash has me installing new lotsa stuff, and I figure 3 or 4 days if I'm lucky. JPG's photoes will help, I'm sure, as they are much much better than the ones in the SS BandSaw manual. I almost wish I hadn't gotten out the Manual, 'cause I see in it notes to self at some of the adjustments (like guides!) saying "could not get". Has to do with depth of cut being not 6" but a little more than 5. And stuff like that.
And now I put on the new wheels, and new 1/2" blade, and almost nothing lines up (and the blade has a big bend in it).
Amazing to see how much fatter the black tires are than the urethane, how irregular that thickness, and how they are not glued to the wheels. Ah, the new technology (?)!
Btw, tires so fat the blade doesn't come close to the center of the lower guide bearing, and blade rubs on upper guide block housing-with (square) block removed.
This outta be fu--, uh, that is, interesting.

** should note that I mention larger tires- and not secured to the wheels- only because I am going to assume this is normal, since they are brand new, right out of the box. In other words, I don't consider this a problem but rather will use this as the new (to me) standard. If they were not new I would probably have thought there was something wrong, with the tire being bigger than the wheel. But it must be okay, and that's a relief.
So I'm takin off the table, strippin the hole thing down, and starting from scratch.
(Meanwhile, anyone have a recommendation on a similar-sized band saw, like Delta, Grizzly, Jet, whatever?)

**********Never mind that last thing. CORRECTIONS, MODifications made Aug 7 (to this msg, this thread)...