Shopsmith Forums

We were out buying corn, our favorite farmer is only open weekends now so we have to time our outings in that direction. That was followed by a nature walk. We then stopped to visit our newest grandson, a solar ellipse born boy(we now stand at 6 girls and 5 boys).

So a lot of my day was used up with other thing but I need to keep on the 10ER if I have any hope of seeing it running this year. Since I'm at this now I figured I document what I'm doing and the whys and so on.

This machine is a later production so it has things like the thinner tubes and possible other changes. So if it looks different or has different parts well that is how it is.

I went ahead and ordered bearings for the head stock without even checking out the ones installed. The other 10ER I did for my brother the bearings were stiff and needed some lubrication but were fine so this is my first time replacing bears if needed.

Since there are people here who have never seen a 10ER much less the inside part lets start with a picture of the part I'm working on.
The current machines have a very similar part. In this case the pulley mounts on one side and this is what drives the spline shaft of the quill. The assembly consists of two bearings, a sleeve and the shaft. When it is pulled apart it looks like this:
The first thing I noticed is the bearings have metal shields, this is different then the other version I saw on the machine I did for my brother. The bearings are ND c-88505 USA. I have no history with this machine so I can only tell you what I found.

One of the bearings had a "ruff" spot so that was not a good sign. The other bearing spun freely, like it was dry, also not a good sign. Since I have the bearings I'm going to replace them.

I'm sorry I did not have the presents of mind to show the bearings being removed, well I did think of it but my hands were too dirty to handle the camera so........

This the bearing puller that they sell at Harbor Freight, I forgot the price but remember that the 25% coupon is good tomorrow(Labor Day) if you need one.
I have to dig the quill out and if I have to replace bearings I'll try and get some photos of the puller in action if I need it. The current quills I can do without the puller but who knows on the 10ER.

Might be a few days before I get back to this. Other 10ER things need doing too.

Ed

I had a little free time this morning so I started on the quill. Again the new quill is not that far from the old version so I didn't take an assembled picture of it. If you are interested I might post one once everything is back together.

After pulling a few parts off, one of which is a stop collar you can set up the bearing puller as seen here:
I think it could be done without a puller but since I have one I used it. The results looks like this:
With the front bearing off you can now get to the stop collar and the back bearing. Again the puller was used.
And the results:
The bearings again are metal shielded ND, this time 88016. Both spin like they are dry so I will replace them as well.

So while everything is apart I will clean the parts and then hope to install the new bearings yet this week.

Ed

Great thread. I needed to see that. It will be very helpful to me when I do my bearings on my 10er. Thanks.

Is the information in this thread directly applicable to a Mark 5/v?

dusty wrote:Is the information in this thread directly applicable to a Mark 5/v?

The pictures are of 10ER things which look a lot like the modern versions but do have differences.

As you know shopsmith has a single bearing quill and then at least 5 different two bearing quills. There are also some third party two bearing quills so it is hard to be specific yet general on this.

The general concept will be the same but if you have a split shaft quill then the shaft has to come apart to remove/install the bearings and then there are various ways of holding the bearing in place, some sort of collar or ring.

This is my first 10ER bearing replacements but I have done ones for the current version of the single bearing quill and a couple of double bearing quills which were all different......... but once you have done any bearing work it becomes easier to see how it is done and adapt.

I am hoping to do a replacement of some bearings today. Waiting for a call so I've been looking at finances and sorting papers for the last two hours..... not wasted time but not doing what I'd like to be doing either.

Ed

So lets get some bearings installed!

The bearings I got off ebay. New and free shipping so $24.60 for the two of them. They are not the ones often mentioned but a replacement and for a more reasonable price. These don't have much to do but take the load of the pulley and the quill shaft drive. Here is a picture of the bearing:
One thing to do when you get your bearings is to make sure you have what you think you have. Numbers change from company to company but the critical thing is the the outside, inside and thickness are all the same. I normally don't try to mic them just visual and touch should get you in the ball park.

The bearings will be a tight fit on the shaft in this case. It is still a sliding fit but sometimes they are actually a interference fit and the parts are put together by heating one part and cooling the other. Thank goodness that is not required for this application.

While we are at it lets see who knows why this undercut is present? If you know or think you know post an answer and include a sketch to show it.
I could assume you all know that in this case the only pressure applied to the inner race and NOT to the outer race. If you do this wrong you will most likely wreck your new bearing. In this case blue is good and red is not.
One of the big issue is getting the bearing on straight. If it is not it can jam that is not good. To that end I like to start the process by tapping on the inner race and making sure it going on right before I go to the press to install it all the way. One could actually install the bearing this way if you wanted to. The trick is to find a pipe, or similar tool that applies the force to the just the inner race. I used a socket.
I also like to put just a drop of oil on the shaft and rub it around with my finger before putting the bearing on. This is optional but this is how learned to do it so..........

I then went to the press and seated the bearing all the way on.
With that done you can start the other bearing. Just make sure you add that spacer part.....
After getting it started I then pressed it on. The center spacer should have a little wiggle room so don't press it too tight. And there you are re-assembled with new bearings!
We will see if I can get to the quill worked on tomorrow. Pretty full day so who knows.

Ed

I don't know if people can identify with how this all goes together so I took this picture.

In it I have identified where the pulley goes, that is "A".

Area "B" resides in the pulley side of the headstock. It provides the drive to the quill by way of a spline.

"C" shows the spline portion that is on the quill, part of it in inserted and these are the parts that allows the quill to move in and out.

"D" and "E" is the location of the bearings inside the quill.

And finally "F" is where the tapered shaft is that you mount things to.

Of course there are parts missing but I hope this helps some.
Ed

Re the 'undercut', it is created when the square shoulder is created on the end. That allows the bearing inner race to not be interfered by a 'gullet' at the corner between the shoulder and the 'shaft'. That allows the shoulder to accurately position(by being a stop) the bearing on the shaft.

JPG wrote:Re the 'undercut', it is created when the square shoulder is created on the end. That allows the bearing inner race to not be interfered by a 'gullet' at the corner between the shoulder and the 'shaft'. That allows the shoulder to accurately position(by being a stop) the bearing on the shaft.

JPeG, nailed it!

(Sorry about the JPeG, but Big Bad Bob isn't here any more.
May he rest in peace.)

steve

FWIW, 'THEE' started that JPeG stuff, not 'Michael'.