Aux Table Alignment

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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

[quote="JPG40504"]Wait for it! A response from Plant City, FL.]

Thanks. My lengthly response. I am finally back working in my shop each day now thanks to my new Alzheimer pill (Aricept). Please let me know if I owe anyone any parts or responses from the past several years. Thanks.

You will need to saw both legs off at the bottom of the trunnion cross bar, weld an aluminum "L" bracket to the trunnion where the legs were cut off. The "L" bracket will only fit on one side of the trunnion as the stop pin for tilting is in the way on the other side. Then I use clamps, a wide 3/4" plywood board across both table and spacers to clamp the table being worked on to the main table at its lowest position so the fence rails will line straight and level, with the legs in the headrest, I position the table being worked on over the legs and match the top of the legs to the "L" bracket and tack weld or braze the legs to the "L" bracket on one side. Then I disconnect the tables and insure the working table will slide up and down with out binding. I then raise the main table high and make sure the working table still aligns with the main table. Once I get the legs to where they will slide and maintain position, I tack weld the other side of the legs and repeat the tests. If still OK, then I remove the working table and finish welding the legs to the "L" bracket. I try to do several tables at the same time as I have the tools and equipment available then. I find these modified tillable tables can be used for many tasks.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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reible
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Post by reible »

BTW the image from the last post is from here:

http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/tblsaw ... tm#ripping

Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

I stand corrected!
Heath
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mountainbreeze
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Post by mountainbreeze »

I now remember seeing that PTWFE write-up a long time ago. It's interesting to note that the main table in the picture doesn't have the extra slot. For my setup, I'll go with the work-around of fence extensions and usage of the second slot in the main table.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

mountainbreeze wrote:I now remember seeing that PTWFE write-up a long time ago. It's interesting to note that the main table in the picture doesn't have the extra slot. For my setup, I'll go with the work-around of fence extensions and usage of the second slot in the main table.

Interesting that a MV 500 will 'work', but tain't so for earlier vintage hardware. IMHO that is wishful thinking, but then I have 0 experience with a MV 500.

P.S. perhaps the newer PTWFE entry was an attempt to justify the elimination of the extra slot, although methinks the 10" blade issue was the deciding factor.

Straddling will only work if the extension table matches the main table extension(the wide ext table does!) and they are aligned properly.


P.P.S. I do not think the 'author' of that PTWFE segment ever used a '500'. There are no pix of a '500' there. I think the author calculated the difference in table dimensions and 'assumed' the rest.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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