45 angle on a wide board?

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 1:19 pm

How about making a miter bar to fit the slot, hot glue that to the board. Then make your cut.

johnmccrossen · Post by **johnmccrossen** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:04 pm

Hi Flipper, What you want to do is difficult to do safely with a model 500 without making some extra fixtures, jigs and supperts. If you have a "skillsaw" you could clamp your board to the edge of a work table and use a long guide board clamped the length of your board and cut it with the saw set to 45.

Whatever you do don't take any chances and do something unsafe.

Good luck, John Mccrossen

reible · Post by **reible** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:13 pm

Seems that this is rather a simple thing to do, you just need to think a little differently.

Board flat on the tilted table, board vertical on the tilted table.

Keep in mind this is not a real set up to cut the wood, just a way of showing how it might be done.

First you need a tall fence, this you can make on your own to fit the 500 rip fence and using the holes in the fence to mount it.

The edge of the blade nearest the rip fence should just leave the very edge of the workpiece, perhaps a 32nd left which you can later touch up by sanding.

You will need a out feed table or support set at the proper height to support the workpiece as it leaves the table, say 3 feet away.

If you have the guards you will have to check for fit, it works on the 520 but the 500 is a little different, it is best if you can as the splitter if helpful on this sort of cut.

Pictures please? Sure.

[ATTACH]15974[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]15975[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]15976[/ATTACH]

Ed

garys · Post by **garys** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:47 pm

johnmccrossen wrote: If you have a "skillsaw" you could clamp your board to the edge of a work table and use a long guide board clamped the length of your board and cut it with the saw set to 45.

I've done it this way in the past and it is very easy. I bolted a 1" or so wide board to the Skilsaw platform as a guide fence, tilted the saw platform 45 degrees and simply run the saw along the edge of the board to cut the 45. It is easier to run a Skilsaw along a long board than to run a long board across a table saw.

jeff__130 · Post by **jeff__130** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 5:42 pm

flipper wrote:I need to rip a 45 angle on the long edge of a 1''x10''x 6'..I tilt the table to 45 degrees but can not get close enough to make the cut without the table getting right on the blade...am i doing something wrong?
thank you

New, inexperienced guy here throwing out an idea to be supported/smashed:

Assuming you can't clamp a straight board (to use as a fence) to your table and tilt your circular saw to 45, would it be that difficult to build a sled? I've seen it done in other posts and it didn't look that difficult.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 7:07 pm

jeff__130 wrote:New, inexperienced guy here throwing out an idea to be supported/smashed:

Assuming you can't clamp a straight board (to use as a fence) to your table and tilt your circular saw to 45, would it be that difficult to build a sled? I've seen it done in other posts and it didn't look that difficult.

Sleds are typically used for cross cutting on a table saw.

Are you proposing a sled for the circular hand saw or what???

swampgator · Post by **swampgator** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:10 pm

As an owner of two 500's, I would do it the same way as Ed showed and discussed. However, with a board that long, I would have some helpers for both infeed and outfeed.

edflorence · Post by **edflorence** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:48 pm

Hi Flipper;

As a long time owner, user and fan of the model 500, I think this operation, which as I understand it is a rip bevel on one of the long edges, can be done with reasonable safety. I like Ed Reible's approach, but it does require a tall fence be attached to the standard fence to provide support. It is probably worth the time and effort to make the tall fence as it will certainly come in handy again. When I built mine I affixed a couple of hand holds to the back side and that way I can also use it as a panel beveling jig. I clamp the piece to be beveled to the tall fence and then slide the tall fence along the rip fence.

In this situation, if you did not want to build the tall fence (plans given in PTWFE) then I would probably clamp a straight guide piece to the underside of the workpiece, parallel to the edge to be ripped. This guide piece can then be held snug up against the bottom edge of the tilted table as the work piece is passed through the saw. If the upper guard and the anti-kickback pawls are left in place, the cut-off should be restrained and not kick back at the end of the cut. PTWFE shows a variation of this technique where the guide piece is held snug to the upper edge of the table. Either way, this method does require accurate measuring to get the guide piece the right distance from the blade and perfectly parallel to the edge. It also requires that the table/blade alignment be correct.

If neither of these approaches seems appropriate for you, then the idea of making the cut with a guided skill saw should be perfectly adequate. Use a fresh carbide blade and keep the saw snugged up to the guide bar.

Hope some of this is helpful.

derekdarling · Post by **derekdarling** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 1:59 am

reible wrote:Seems that this is rather a simple thing to do, you just need to think a little differently.

Board flat on the tilted table, board vertical on the tilted table.

Keep in mind this is not a real set up to cut the wood, just a way of showing how it might be done.

First you need a tall fence, this you can make on your own to fit the 500 rip fence and using the holes in the fence to mount it.

...
Ed

Brillliant! I have a 10ER, but this will work. I'm thinking move the whole rig (headstock and table) to the left, and make a REALLY TALL table, with supports to ride on the way tubes. this should allow for a very stable way to make angle cuts safely. I am SO going to try this, and post pics when I do. Come to think of it, if the supports were linked to some sort of 'knee' joint, it would be possible to make the tall table work at 90 degrees as well, giving a very stable tenon cutting system. I'm going to do up some drawings. Nice thinkin' Reible.

Derek

jeff__130 · Post by **jeff__130** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 1:39 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Sleds are typically used for cross cutting on a table saw.

Are you proposing a sled for the circular hand saw or what???

I was thinking to just build a jig (calling it a sled might be wrong) that he could place the board-to-be-cut on and push it across the table saw like a rip cut. So long as the board stays flush to the jig and in contact with the table, it ought to produce the beveled edge. It would still be best to have help, but it seems like a logical way to me. I've never had to do it, though.