Brut force method, since I don't have a schematic capture tool. I drew it in Key Note. Apple's iwork version of the ever popular Power point. My son looked over my shoulder when I had just about finished it and asked... Why didn't you ask me. He has a schematic capture tool he uses for school.
I've been looking for parts. I'm struggling with the 10A 2 pole Circuit Breaker that is used in the ShopSmith Control box. I think it maybe a P&B now Tyco Electronics (TE) Circuit Breaker. W92-X112-10 or W68=X2Q12-10. Both are expensive.
Yes this is not the in-expensive way to get it running again, but it is better. There is about $100.00 in parts for the DC Feed motor control. If the TE Circuit Breaker is what was used it is almost $50.00 alone. So this control is pushing close to $200.00. Once I find some Project Boxes and various hardware.
I hope to get the schematic verified and then I will begin my little electrical project. In listing my son for his insight in electronics. He is in his 2nd year so will be helpful.
Thank You,
Dan
ProPlanner Upgrade Project Documentation - 90%
Moderator: admin
electrical schematic layout tool
For what its worth I use this tool when I am roughing out a circuit. Then I turn it over to our draftsman and he puts it in autocad. For me it is simple and easy.
http://www.expresspcb.com/expresspcbhtm/download.htm
Biggest advantage... Its Free...
http://www.expresspcb.com/expresspcbhtm/download.htm
Biggest advantage... Its Free...
Mike......... Rowlett, Texas, near Dallas
86 MK V 500/520. 59 MK 5 Greenie Shorty. SS Jointer, SS Planer,
SS Bandsaw, SS Lathe duplicator, SS Belt Sander,SS Molder & Shaper,
SS Tenon master jig, SS Mortising kit, SS 2 1/4' Drum Sanders, Ringmaster, DC3300....
86 MK V 500/520. 59 MK 5 Greenie Shorty. SS Jointer, SS Planer,
SS Bandsaw, SS Lathe duplicator, SS Belt Sander,SS Molder & Shaper,
SS Tenon master jig, SS Mortising kit, SS 2 1/4' Drum Sanders, Ringmaster, DC3300....
-
dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21481
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Thank you, Mike, for posting this. I have needed something like this ever since I trashed my AutoCad CD.mikelst wrote:For what its worth I use this tool when I am roughing out a circuit. Then I turn it over to our draftsman and he puts it in autocad. For me it is simple and easy.
http://www.expresspcb.com/expresspcbhtm/download.htm
Biggest advantage... Its Free...
I have several sets of paper notes that are begging for better documentation. This makes that possible.
Thanks Again
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Hi Mark,
I was hoping to find out if you have any updates on your Pro planer upgrade.
I've ordering the parts to build the new speed control. The Minarik DC motor control has arrived and the other parts should arrive soon.
The breaker has not been ordered, I was hoping to hear back from you to see if the P&B Breaker may be what you used.
Dan
I was hoping to find out if you have any updates on your Pro planer upgrade.
I've ordering the parts to build the new speed control. The Minarik DC motor control has arrived and the other parts should arrive soon.
The breaker has not been ordered, I was hoping to hear back from you to see if the P&B Breaker may be what you used.
Dan
Sorry to have disappered
Sorry to have left folks in a lurch if they were following the upgrade.
Life took a dramatic turn for me for the worse. My wife was diagnosed with brain cancer on Novermber 6th and ever since then life has been turned totally upside down. I haven't spent a day in the shop or working on the project since then.
We are temporarily living in Seattle since December 18th so that my wife can go through a clinical trial. My typical day is get up, make breakfast, go to the hospital one or more times a day, take care of my wife, keep the apartment clean, make dinner, do chores and mail, then go to bed. We will be here at least another month.
I have looked over the posts and schematics and everything looks ok. The only comments, and they are minor, on the schematics are:
1) the first filter is really a surge suppressor to take out heavy duty spikes.
2) the second filter is truly a filter to protect the Minarik is is somewhat overkill but it's cheap overkill.
3) the connectors are really on the bulkhead connectors.
4) I don't have details here on the wiring of the pot, or the power connector to the motor. The one detail that may not be obvious is that L1/L2 may need to be reversed to get proper direction on the motor. That's dependent on the motor used and whether it's is marked CW or CCW.
As to the final testing, I just started when things went south. It appears that I had more than enough torque and speed range. In fact the speed may have to be throttled back a bit. That was all very preliminary, so take it with a grain of salt.
Hopefully those that are trying the design out will have news much sooner than me. You can update here, but I cannot honestly say when I will be back here as my wife goes into probably the worst of the treatment this weekend.
All that I can say is that I will try.
Good luck!
Life took a dramatic turn for me for the worse. My wife was diagnosed with brain cancer on Novermber 6th and ever since then life has been turned totally upside down. I haven't spent a day in the shop or working on the project since then.
We are temporarily living in Seattle since December 18th so that my wife can go through a clinical trial. My typical day is get up, make breakfast, go to the hospital one or more times a day, take care of my wife, keep the apartment clean, make dinner, do chores and mail, then go to bed. We will be here at least another month.
I have looked over the posts and schematics and everything looks ok. The only comments, and they are minor, on the schematics are:
1) the first filter is really a surge suppressor to take out heavy duty spikes.
2) the second filter is truly a filter to protect the Minarik is is somewhat overkill but it's cheap overkill.
3) the connectors are really on the bulkhead connectors.
4) I don't have details here on the wiring of the pot, or the power connector to the motor. The one detail that may not be obvious is that L1/L2 may need to be reversed to get proper direction on the motor. That's dependent on the motor used and whether it's is marked CW or CCW.
As to the final testing, I just started when things went south. It appears that I had more than enough torque and speed range. In fact the speed may have to be throttled back a bit. That was all very preliminary, so take it with a grain of salt.
Hopefully those that are trying the design out will have news much sooner than me. You can update here, but I cannot honestly say when I will be back here as my wife goes into probably the worst of the treatment this weekend.
All that I can say is that I will try.
Good luck!
Whoops - forgot two things
Yes, the circuit breaker is expensive and that is because it is a dual pole. You could substitute a single pole, or if you are never going to consider 220v operation with the main motor you could change it out to 110v.
The reason for the dual pole is: The circuit breaker must at least cover the hot side. With 220v both sides are literally hot. If you have 110v then putting it on the hot side is OK. I don't like that option. It's not unreasonable to expect someone may goof and wire the shop incorrectly or that a short will occur on the ground side and the breaker wouldn't trip. It's not so much about the equipment's protection but mine! In my designs I always use a dual pole, even though more expensive.
In my case I actually bought a surplus breaker. These breakers can be found in new condition for a way lot less. I wouldn't be concerned about using even a used breaker since unless they show signs of burning I have never encountered a bad one. If I get a chance I will try to find out where I got mine.
That's it for now.
The reason for the dual pole is: The circuit breaker must at least cover the hot side. With 220v both sides are literally hot. If you have 110v then putting it on the hot side is OK. I don't like that option. It's not unreasonable to expect someone may goof and wire the shop incorrectly or that a short will occur on the ground side and the breaker wouldn't trip. It's not so much about the equipment's protection but mine! In my designs I always use a dual pole, even though more expensive.
In my case I actually bought a surplus breaker. These breakers can be found in new condition for a way lot less. I wouldn't be concerned about using even a used breaker since unless they show signs of burning I have never encountered a bad one. If I get a chance I will try to find out where I got mine.
That's it for now.
