10 ER ? I'm new...

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beeg
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Post by beeg »

SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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derekdarling
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Post by derekdarling »

beeg wrote:DO KNOT use an old file, it's to BRITTLE and may break easily.
After some research, I stand corrected. I have used old files for hand chisles and gouges without taking into account the micro-cracks that the original process may have introduced. Even annealing the file will not remove these cracks. I stand, once again, corrected and in gratitude of those with superior knowledge. :)

Derek
Derek Darling
Surrey, B.C. Canada
10ERs, other stuff, you know.
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fredsheldon
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Post by fredsheldon »

Intersting looking machine. How do you change speeds. What happens when your shirt tail gets caught in the pulley :eek: There's one on Craigslist today for $1,000, yes that's a thousand.
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

fredsheldon wrote:How do you change speeds. What happens when your shirt tail gets caught in the pulley :eek:
First off, WHY wood ya have loose clothing on when operating machinery?:eek: Speed changes are accomplished by moving the belt up and down the pulleys.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

fredsheldon wrote:How do you change speeds.
Change which set of pulleys the belt uses.
fredsheldon wrote:What happens when your shirt tail gets caught in the pulley :eek:
That's why all my clothes fasten with quick-release tabs in the back.

fredsheldon wrote:There's one on Craigslist today for $1,000, yes that's a thousand.
One zero too many!
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
gypsytinker
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Post by gypsytinker »

Here is the motor I am considering >:)

Image

3 HP Baldor Treadmill Motor - I'll probably remove the flywheel.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

gypsytinker wrote:Here is the motor I am considering >:)

Image

3 HP Baldor Treadmill Motor - I'll probably remove the flywheel.
Why?......
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
gypsytinker
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Post by gypsytinker »

Why on which part, the motor or flywheel?

The motor because I might actually try to lathe some metals on this thing. I've heard the power is one of the short-comings of the 10ER as well.

The flywheel, I may remove because it might cause more stress on the machine if something went wrong.
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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

gypsytinker wrote:Why on which part, the motor or flywheel?

The motor because I might actually try to lathe some metals on this thing. I've heard the power is one of the short-comings of the 10ER as well.

The flywheel, I may remove because it might cause more stress on the machine if something went wrong.
On most DC motors, there are fins/ridges on the flywheel needed for cooling the motor. If not, then you would be OK. Many treadmill motors are not continious duty motors which can overheat and destroy the motor and controller when operated too long.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

gypsytinker wrote:Why on which part, the motor or flywheel?

The motor because I might actually try to lathe some metals on this thing. I've heard the power is one of the short-comings of the 10ER as well.

The flywheel, I may remove because it might cause more stress on the machine if something went wrong.
I doubt that would be a problem.

Now as for bits etc. . .

10ER 'power' due to small motors and single v-belt.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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