Bandsaw fence
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Bandsaw fence
I am new to woodworking and new to Shopsmith (I purchased a used 2007 Model 510 several weeks ago). Rockler has a special now for a Kreg bandsaw table fence with resaw guide for $107 (with no shipping charge) (see http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page ... ign=V2098). This Kreg fence seems to attach only on the front of the table.
Is anyone familiar with this Kreg fence? Any advice as to how well it work with the Shopsmith bandsaw table? Any comparisons to the Shopsmith $90 bandsaw fence (555645)?
Thanks.
Hank
Is anyone familiar with this Kreg fence? Any advice as to how well it work with the Shopsmith bandsaw table? Any comparisons to the Shopsmith $90 bandsaw fence (555645)?
Thanks.
Hank
- dusty
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I have no real experience with the Kreg fence so I will not comment on that. However, be aware that there is a difference between Kreg fences. Kreg makes one specifically for the Shopsmith. I do not know if a generic Kreg fence will work.hjlssfor1 wrote:I am new to woodworking and new to Shopsmith (I purchased a used 2007 Model 510 several weeks ago). Rockler has a special now for a Kreg bandsaw table fence with resaw guide for $107 (with no shipping charge) (see http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11304&utm_source=NL&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=V2098). This Kreg fence seems to attach only on the front of the table.
Is anyone familiar with this Kreg fence? Any advice as to how well it work with the Shopsmith bandsaw table? Any comparisons to the Shopsmith $90 bandsaw fence (555645)?
Thanks.
Hank
Welcome to the forum.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
When Kreg first started offering their miter gauge, I was able to have one modified to fit the SS. Later, they quit offering that service.
I simply use the Kreg gauge with it's 24" adjustable fence, just like using the stock SS miter gauge. Except, I have to clamp it.
All that being said, it's rare for me to use a fence for anything other that cutting narrow pieces to consistent length. I have very few blades that do not have a "lead". So, for resawing, I use a pivot fence an follow a line. Adjusting a fence to compensate for a blade's lead has never worked well for me.
I wouldn't spend the money for either fence. But that's just me.
I simply use the Kreg gauge with it's 24" adjustable fence, just like using the stock SS miter gauge. Except, I have to clamp it.
All that being said, it's rare for me to use a fence for anything other that cutting narrow pieces to consistent length. I have very few blades that do not have a "lead". So, for resawing, I use a pivot fence an follow a line. Adjusting a fence to compensate for a blade's lead has never worked well for me.
I wouldn't spend the money for either fence. But that's just me.
Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
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foxtrapper
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- robinson46176
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foxtrapper wrote:I don't see where this fence has anything over the use of the 500 fence.
And neither have anything over a bit of straight wood spring clamped to the table.
Often times the more simple the better. We sometimes forget that here.
.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
foxtrapper wrote:I don't see where this fence has anything over the use of the 500 fence.
And neither have anything over a bit of straight wood spring clamped to the table.
Sometime back, a fellow posted how he made inserts for the grid under the table (old style, iron). Makes for easier and more secure clamping.
Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
According to Shopsmith the Kreg version gives greater ripping capacity (because the fence rails extend beyond the table's surface (unlike the Shopsmith version and unlike a piece of wood clamped to the surface). Whether this is an advantage worth paying for depends on how you use your bandsaw. It would not be difficult to add a couple of wooden or aluminum rails extending beyond the table and then clamp a piece of wood to these rails to get the added rip capacity offered by the Kregfoxtrapper wrote:I don't see where this fence has anything over the use of the 500 fence.
And neither have anything over a bit of straight wood spring clamped to the table.
- rlkeeney
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Now that is just plain silly. A few years back I ripped a stack of 16 foot siding using a piece of 2x4 for a fence. That one project paid for the Shopsmith.algale wrote:According to Shopsmith the Kreg version gives greater ripping capacity
For me, the only reasons to have one of these fences is ease of adjustment or ease of use. For example if you can turn a little knob and move the fence a tiny bit that's a lot easier than moving a piece of wood clamped to the table. Being able to make fine adjustments quickly means that I get to spend more time on the project instead of messing with clamps.
They are referring to the width of the rip not length.rlkeeney wrote:Now that is just plain silly. A few years back I ripped a stack of 16 foot siding using a piece of 2x4 for a fence. That one project paid for the Shopsmith.
For me, the only reasons to have one of these fences is ease of adjustment or ease of use. For example if you can turn a little knob and move the fence a tiny bit that's a lot easier than moving a piece of wood clamped to the table. Being able to make fine adjustments quickly means that I get to spend more time on the project instead of messing with clamps.
- dusty
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I don't see this claim in the Shopsmith ad. It seems to me though that rip capacity is limited by the size of the opening and that the fence (any fence) is unable to increase that dimension.algale wrote:According to Shopsmith the Kreg version gives greater ripping capacity (because the fence rails extend beyond the table's surface (unlike the Shopsmith version and unlike a piece of wood clamped to the surface). Whether this is an advantage worth paying for depends on how you use your bandsaw. It would not be difficult to add a couple of wooden or aluminum rails extending beyond the table and then clamp a piece of wood to these rails to get the added rip capacity offered by the Kreg
This limited capacity (with or without a Kreg Fence) is a only negative factor that I can find with my band saw. Bigger would be better but that I have no room for bigger.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.