Edge Gluing

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:34 pm

Titebond also makes a couple of "extend" wood glues -- the regular and Titebond II Extend. Both have longer open time than the regular versions. And then there is always slow set epoxy.

danscot · Post by **danscot** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:42 pm

I had this issue with a solid oak table top a couple of years back. The wood surface was so smooth that I was loathe to get involved in any major surface surgery after assembly!

I sandwiched the glued up table top between 2 sheets of ply - I do recollect having fun getting all the clamps in place

My biggest worry was that glue might squeeze out onto the ply & I'd end up with an interesting laminate effect

I am pleased to report that it worked perfectly!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:58 pm

I use TiteBond III Ultimate Wood Glue almost exclusively. It has a reasonable open time and it cleans up well with water. Residue that does not get cleaned up well, however, is very visible after staining.

I have developed a method of getting rid of squeeze out that seems to work very well, at least for me. I have dedicated a 1 1/2" wide wood chisel as a glue removal tool. After allowing the squeeze out to begin to harden (1/2 to 3/4 hour), I use this dedicated chisel to remove the residue. It scraps right off and if I am careful I don't even gouge the wood.

On this veneer, if I am not careful.....

bffulgham · Post by **bffulgham** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:34 pm

dusty wrote:I use TiteBond III Ultimate Wood Glue almost exclusively. It has a reasonable open time and it cleans up well with water. Residue that does not get cleaned up well, however, is very visible after staining.

I have developed a method of getting rid of squeeze out that seems to work very well, at least for me. I have dedicated a 1 1/2" wide wood chisel as a glue removal tool. After allowing the squeeze out to begin to harden (1/2 to 3/4 hour), I use this dedicated chisel to remove the residue. It scraps right off and if I am careful I don't even gouge the wood.

On this veneer, if I am not careful.....

I've used the same method as you for removing the semi-congealed glue using a chisel. But, I'm sometimes a bit careless/klutzy with the chisel and found that this paint scraper works better for me and edge glue-ups.
[ATTACH]17292[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]17293[/ATTACH]
Still have to be very careful with the corners on it as well.

algale · Post by **algale** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:58 pm

I think hide glue, including the premade Titebond version, may be just the thing. I understand one of the big advantages of hide glue is that it can easily be undone and redone as many times as necessary. Thus if you get a bad glue up, just reactivate the glue, relalign your parts and try again. I admit, however, that I have not worked with it and so you should seek out advice of others (Shipright are you listening?)

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 5:09 pm

algale wrote:I think hide glue, including the premade Titebond version, may be just the thing. I understand one of the big advantages of hide glue is that it can easily be undone and redone as many times as necessary. Thus if you get a bad glue up, just reactivate the glue, relalign your parts and try again. I admit, however, that I have not worked with it and so you should seek out advice of others (Shipright are you listening?)

I was exposed to hot hide glue in high school. A while back I got a chance to spend some time with shipwright and I learned that he uses hot glue. I have not done so but I do intend to acquire a hot pot and give it another try.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 5:15 pm

bffulgham wrote:I've used the same method as you for removing the semi-congealed glue using a chisel. But, I'm sometimes a bit careless/klutzy with the chisel and found that this paint scraper works better for me and edge glue-ups.
[ATTACH]17292[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]17293[/ATTACH]
Still have to be very careful with the corners on it as well.

I appreciate all of the comments here and I will pay attention to what I am being told.

I even dug out an old paint scraper so hopefully I can sharpen the chisel and put it back where it belongs.

[ATTACH]17294[/ATTACH]

This is my last glue for the project that is currently in work. No glue has been applied yet. I don't expect the scraper will work quite that well.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 5:34 pm

Being a little old fashioned I am fond of tongue & groove glue joints. I prefer a tapered T&G over a square cut one.
This is a straight cut T&G:

[ATTACH]17296[/ATTACH]

This is a tapered cut T&G:

[ATTACH]17295[/ATTACH]

I think that the tapered cut will start together better and will then always line up when clamped.
And of course always work with the veneer side against the table / router base etc.

Not saying that is the right way, just how I would approach it...

.

dan1999 · Post by **dan1999** » Thu Apr 26, 2012 7:34 pm

Dusty, the easiest method of doing this is to use white glue on the material receiving the veneer and then use an hot iron to get it to adhere. Once it starts to adhere move on to the next four inches in a continous motion. Then use a block of wood to smooth it out and then let it sit to dry. I used to run a veneer press and handle veneer for over 2 years this is very easy.

reible · Post by **reible** » Thu Apr 26, 2012 11:13 pm

dusty wrote:I have used splines before but with mixed success. Splines, if cut perfectly, work great. If there are any errors to start with, the splines tend to make them permanent.

The same with biscuits which I am using this time. If biscuit slots are off just a little bit that little bit reveals itself on the surface.

I guess these are the issues that make skilled craftsmen skilled - which I am not.

I have three pieces glued up now. Of the three, I have one that I am pleased with. In baseball, one for three is a respectable average. In woodworking - not so respectable.

Of the other two, I think that one may be close enough to be sanded smooth. The third one - well maybe I can find a location in the finished project to bury it. If not, I'll have to recut and reglue. Fortunately, I can just rip right down the glue line and reuse the lumber (no materials lost).

I got eight more pieces to go. I hope my average improves some. Slow and deliberate may be the trick but for me that challenges my patience. Patience is definitely one of my short suits.

Projects like this one cause me to have a much greater respect for anyone who builds furniture.

Hi Dusty,

If you are still having issues and are still using biscuit then remember that you can redo a biscuit joint as long as you haven't glued things up yet. You simply glue a biscuit in the hole that is off, let it dry then re-cut.

Every once in a while I have that happen and the correction only slows you down for as long as it takes for the glue to dry.

I've posted this method somewhere here before, perhaps with pictures but at the moment I don't know where it is.

Ed