dusty wrote:Why does the opening need to be wider. If you secure an uncut insert into the table and simply lower the table unto a running blade, the blade will cut the kerf that it needs. All that is necessary BEFORE doing this is make certain that the blade comes up in the cutout where you want it. I typically try to center the kerf in the opening.
Same as a 90 degree ZCI except that it is cut with the table at the required angle.
If the blade on the ss raised and lowered like the delta, I understand. However the ss lowers the table vertically only(does not follow the angle set).
The 'width of a blade' positioned at an angle is is wider than the kerf.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:If the blade on the ss raised and lowered like the delta, I understand. However the ss lowers the table vertically only(does not follow the angle set).
The 'width of a blade' positioned at an angle is is wider than the kerf.
OK!:o Lowering the table with the table tilted is actually the same thing.
Resultant opening will be wider than the saw kerf, but will be correct for the angle set.
Too much thinking about irrelevant details.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I'm not sure I understand your thinking, but the kerf will be the same size as the saw blade, not wider than the blade. It would be wider if the blade itself were tilted, but it is not, it is vertical and the table drops straight down onto the blade regardless of the angle it is set to.
pennview wrote:I'm not sure I understand your thinking, but the kerf will be the same size as the saw blade, not wider than the blade. It would be wider if the blade itself were tilted, but it is not, it is vertical and the table drops straight down onto the blade regardless of the angle it is set to.
After cutting a kerf in an insert that was installed in a tilted table (at the time the kerf was cut), the kerf appears to be slightly wider. This allusion occurs because you are seeing the kerf on an angle.
If not that, JPG has had one too many cool ones.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:After cutting a kerf in an insert that was installed in a tilted table (at the time the kerf was cut), the kerg appears to be slightly wider. This allusion occurs because you are seeing the kerf on an angle.
If not that, JPG has had one too many cool ones.
Ok!
Depends upon yer vantage point(or how you hold yer 'scale'(engineer speak for ruler!)).
The width of the 'kerf' measured perpendicular to the blade sides will indeed be the same as the blade kerf(by definition!).
The width of the slot cut into the ZCI as measured parallel to the face of the ZCI will be wider.
The blade being vertical can be thought of as the horizontal base of a 30-60-90 triangle. The face of the ZCI will be parallel to the hypotenuse.
How for sure, the hypotenuse is indeed longer than either 'other' side.
No cool ones yet! It is half past noon and has just now made it up to 70.
The devil is in the 'details'. Or maybe the choice of words(kerf/slot)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
dusty wrote:I am beginning to understand why all of my years working as an engineering technician were so stressful.
A 3/16" thick saw blade cannot cut a kerf that is any wider than the 3/16" saw blade unless it has a whole lot of wobble. Cove cuts don't count.
Yes, you are absolutely correct as engineers go.
Question is, . . . . . is kerf the blade width, or the width of the slot it produces(and is it 'always' measured perpendicular to the blade sides).
Yes you are absolutely correct as techs go.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
The process will be a little different for the Shopsmith, but will show you the basic idea.
Thanks for the link, that was informative and pretty cool...going to have to watch more stuff from this guy. Looks like I may have to make one these inserts for my Craftsman table saw. Also noticed he used a Shopsmith belt sander, could not tell if it was hooked to a mini power station or if it was a regular Mark V.
Todd (Canton, TX)
1962 Magna Corporation Mark V Goldie (Serial #379277); 1983 Shopsmith Mark V Model 500 (Serial #165199, w/bandsaw & joiner), Shopsmith 20" Scroll saw w/stand (Serial #030191), and Shopsmith DC3300 dust collection system. Taking my time, learning all I can and making a big mess!
Or maybe the choice of words(kerf/slot)
