I'm not saying to run out and buy a live center. The dead center will work, just not as well. By the way, any Morse Taper #2 live center will work. It doesn't have to be a SS live center.
The Shopsmith live center has one huge advantage you can extend it which comes in extremely handy when you eventually get the lift assist or Universal Tool Rest. If you decide to purchase the Shopsmith one make sure you purchase two extenders they are only a few dollars.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
I have both the Universal Tool Rest and a lift assist on my Shopsmith and I still do not understand why some of you need, what you are calling, extenders. I do a lot of woodturning and I have yet to need an "extender".
Is what you are talking about a #2 Morse extender? If you are using two of them back to back and then putting your live center in the end of one, you are certainly doing something that is not safe, as the more you stack those things up, the weaker and more sloppy the wood will spin on the lathe. I strongly advise against taking that approach. It's much safer to extend the quill to take up the space/slack.
I've been turning wood for 14 years now, the last six on my Shopsmith, and I have never needed an extender. I don't think I ever will, but it might help others if you can describe one in more detail. I do not know if Shopsmith sells these extenders as I haven't seen them in the catalog.
As for using the Shopsmith spur drive center and dead center, they a perfectly good accessories if you use them properly. I'm not sure what they mean when others are say they are not using a spur drive center anymore, and instead using a chuck for spindle work. You always need a spur center to start a spindle until you at least turn a spigot on the end of the workpiece, so you can mount the piece in the chuck. Even with a chuck, you need to install a spur center in it until you have got this part finished.
A lot of confusion on here about getting started in the world of turning. Your best bet is to find someone local who can give you some advice, and at least buy a book on the subject so you have an idea on how to get started. The chapter in the Shopsmith book is very vague and not that well written on how to get started. The illustrations and descriptions leave a lot out.
Find out if there is a woodturning club in your area. There are chapters all over the country. Check out the "American Association of Woodturners" website for a list of all the clubs/chapters. You can sort them by state so it's not that difficult to find one nearby. Most members of these chapters will help someone get started. Some these guys have been turning 40 years or more, and have seen and done it all. Its worth checking into.
Got anymore questions, just post them here.
I use Stebcenters as well. I have real Sorby and the clones. They offer the most options for mounting and for general use. For those who use a chuck, they-Sorby- and the cloners offer one with 4 flats for use in a chuck. I have one of those on the way. For a novice, they are forgiving.mt
1983 Mark V- beltsander, jigsaw, Stripsander,jointer, bandsaw-double carriage and tables with molders and drums, Over Arm Pin Routers(Freestanding x 2)Second Mark V.
Just something else to consider which could be causing your problem and that is your chisels. You need to sharpen them which is another skill you will need to learn in regards to turning. Generally they just have a factory edge on them when you get them unless you purchase them from someplace that offers a sharpening service. It is very important to ride the bevel which you will learn by either taking a class or from some good turning videos. There is a bunch of free info out there on the web in regards how to turn. Personally I like some OJT with an experienced turner showing me and watching me. I took my first turning class at woodcraft several years ago and was quite satisfied. The easiest turning is spindle and pens then from those skills you can move up to more skillful items. My avatar is an example of what you can do once you get things figured out. Hope this helps you out.
Some of this is an "extension" of several old posts. Some of you might want to do search and look back on what has been said and shown. I think if you want a general idea of why "extenders" this post shows it quite well: http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... stcount=12
It is too bad we can not connect all the good discussions on a subject together...
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Some of this is an "extension" of several old posts. Some of you might want to do search and look back on what has been said and shown. I think if you want a general idea of why "extenders" this post shows it quite well: http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... stcount=12
It is too bad we can not connect all the good discussions on a subject together...
Ed
Ah but they do get connected! Wit the good help we get from you and others who know what's around! Good work guys!!!:D Another "Atta Boy"
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
woodburner wrote:I have both the Universal Tool Rest and a lift assist on my Shopsmith and I still do not understand why some of you need, what you are calling, extenders. I do a lot of woodturning and I have yet to need an "extender".
Is what you are talking about a #2 Morse extender? If you are using two of them back to back and then putting your live center in the end of one, you are certainly doing something that is not safe, as the more you stack those things up, the weaker and more sloppy the wood will spin on the lathe. I strongly advise against taking that approach. It's much safer to extend the quill to take up the space/slack.
I am not talking about a #2 Morse extender (at least not more than 1), Shopsmith sells a small sleeve designed to be installed between the shaft and the bearing and you can safely use up to 2. One comes with the lathe duplicator. They are needed to turn small objects where the fully extended quill does not come close enough to the tailstock center to hold the work.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC