Two Bandsaw Fence Solutions

db5 · Post by **db5** » Sat Aug 11, 2012 6:01 pm

The picture shows two solutions to a fence for a cast iron table. One that I used for years is the magnet bar used to hold knives. I also use two of these to hold handsaws. The second, which uses clamps that I picked up at a garage sale 20 years ago for 25 cents each, is better because I can loosen one clamp and make a minor adjustment, whereas with the magnet bar I have to adjust the entire bar.

I drilled holes in the corners of the table and attached the clamps on the inside holes (not snugged down) so they would swivel to accommodate different width fences. Hex bolts are used to attach them. I don't know if I will ever use the outside holes but they are there if I come up with an application.

anmius · Post by **anmius** » Sun Aug 12, 2012 11:33 am

I have never had to worry about a special fence for my cast iron band saw table. I have always had good success using the miter gauge with an auxiliary fence attached as detailed in the band saw section of Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone. Always worked like a charm for me.

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Tue Aug 14, 2012 7:49 am

I've also had fine results with a strip of something straight, and two clamps to hold it to the table. Be it spring clamps or screw clamps.

Works just as well on the drill press as a locating guide when I want to poke holes repeatedly, and as a faux router or milling machine, when I want to slide things past.

algale · Post by **algale** » Tue Aug 14, 2012 8:32 am

foxtrapper wrote:I've also had fine results with a strip of something straight, and two clamps to hold it to the table. Be it spring clamps or screw clamps.

Works just as well on the drill press as a locating guide when I want to poke holes repeatedly, and as a faux router or milling machine, when I want to slide things past.

+1 on this solution. I have the newer aluminum table (but not the fence). I have used two spring clamps to hold a piece of 1 x 1 "angle aluminum" I got at Home Depot for a few bucks. My rips are straight as long as I am careful to make sure I set the fence up parallel to the blade. If I did a lot of ripping or resawing on my bandsaw I would think about investing in one of the fences Shopsmith offers but I don't do it enough to justify the expense.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Aug 14, 2012 8:54 am

algale wrote:+1 on this solution. I have the newer aluminum table (but not the fence). I have used two spring clamps to hold a piece of 1 x 1 "angle aluminum" I got at Home Depot for a few bucks. My rips are straight as long as I am careful to make sure I set the fence up parallel to the blade. If I did a lot of ripping or resawing on my bandsaw I would think about investing in one of the fences Shopsmith offers but I don't do it enough to justify the expense.

When using the fence on a bandsaw to rip, why does the fence need to be parallel to the blade. Since nearly all blades have some degree of drift, I would think that this setup would not require that.

Maybe you can tell. I don't use the rip fence on my bandsaw. Free hand or table saw for rip cuts.

algale · Post by **algale** » Tue Aug 14, 2012 10:03 am

dusty wrote:When using the fence on a bandsaw to rip, why does the fence need to be parallel to the blade. Since nearly all blades have some degree of drift, I would think that this setup would not require that.

Maybe you can tell. I don't use the rip fence on my bandsaw. Free hand or table saw for rip cuts.

Dusty, I know a lot of people have drift and spend time skewing the fence to correct for the drift, but on the few occasions I have used the bandsaw to rip, I haven't observed any drift on my bandsaw. So I just continue to set my improvised fence parallel to the blade.

Keep in mind I'm no bandsaw expert so this lack of drift isn't anything I've done and must be plain old dumb luck. I also should say that the only blade I have ever used is 1/4 inch Olson blade (this is not quite true; there was another 1/4 blade mounted when I bought the bandsaw from the previous owner; as soon as I tried it I realized it was duller than a butter knife so I replaced it with a new Olson 1/4 and that's been the only blade ever since).

On the other hand, and totally off topic, within a few seconds of start up, my bandsaw makes one heckuva weird noise ("whooo whooo whooo"). This will continue UNTIL the wood makes contact with the blade. As soon as the wood touches the blade, the "whoooing" noise stops; it starts up again within a few seconds of the blade coming out of the wood. I recently got the idea that this might be a dry upper wheel needle bearing so I lubed the upper wheel needle bearing. It made absolutely no difference.

Bandsaws are weird.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Aug 14, 2012 10:49 am

[quote="algale"]Dusty, I know a lot of people have drift and spend time skewing the fence to correct for the drift, but on the few occasions I have used the bandsaw to rip, I haven't observed any drift on my bandsaw. So I just continue to set my improvised fence parallel to the blade.

Keep in mind I'm no bandsaw expert so this lack of drift isn't anything I've done and must be plain old dumb luck. I also should say that the only blade I have ever used is 1/4 inch Carter blade (this is not quite true]I am, by no means, an expert at any of this but my band saws are anything but quiet. I have spent a lot of time trying to make them run quiet but with very little success.

The bearings can, one at a time be stopped from rotating and by doing so can be identified as "cause or no cause". Furthermore, if you find a noisy bearing, replacing it will quiet the band saw somewhat but believe me - the noises will return in a relatively short period of time.

Another theory (mine) is that the noise is the result of the band sliding on the bearing (metal to metal). I have lubricated the exterior to the bearings (where the blade meets the bearing) and this sometimes quiets the noise somewhat, sometime.

Face it, I have, the band saw does not run quiet and if it is mounted on a power station there is even more noise to ignore.

algale · Post by **algale** » Tue Aug 14, 2012 7:13 pm

dusty wrote: The bearings can, one at a time be stopped from rotating and by doing so can be identified as "cause or no cause".

Cause identified: lower bearing. Solution: ignore or turn up music.

mrhart · Post by **mrhart** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 9:59 am

On the other hand, and totally off topic, within a few seconds of start up, my bandsaw makes one heckuva weird noise ("whooo whooo whooo"). This will continue UNTIL the wood makes contact with the blade. As soon as the wood touches the blade, the "whoooing" noise stops; it starts up again within a few seconds of the blade coming out of the wood. I recently got the idea that this might be a dry upper wheel needle bearing so I lubed the upper wheel needle bearing. It made absolutely no difference.

Bandsaws are weird.[/quote]

You speak the gospel. I think we are using the same bandsaw....

I did try holding a candle against the back of the blade with it running to see if that made a diff...sort of..maybe..no.

brad_nalor · Post by **brad_nalor** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 10:52 am

If you're one not wearing ear protection and want to reduce the bandsaw noise, use what car audio builders install on the door insides, something like Dynamat and apply to the SS plastic cover.