[quote="Eric"Shop"Smith"]Any recommendations on a long straightedge, then? For a limited amount of use, is it important to spend $250 on a nice True-Trac system? Would an 8' board, run through a jointer and nailed to a piece of MDF, produce good results? I occurs to me that a piece of plywood might be less likely to bow than a board, but I have read that you shouldn't put it through a jointer. Would simply having it cut on the Lowe's panel saw produce a straight enough edge?[/quote]
For at least 20 years I've used a simple extruded straight edge that measures approx. 10 ft. but has a slip fit jointer in the middle to break it down for storage or shorter stock cuts. Cost $20 for the set-up. I forget the name but sometimes see them for sale at hardware stores. To hold the straight edge, I use larger snap clamps. Works perfect and is all one needs.
That said, I've also used the fancy, nice engineered, German brand Festool and saw of which works well and quick but NOT WORTH the expense.
Ripping on a 10ER Table Saw
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My lumber yard hardware store sold me my 8 foot ruler for about $25.00.
It is made by Johnson in the USA.
the markings are J96 and then 40-0574
Keep in mind that if you get something too tall, you will be limited by the depth of cut from your circular saw due to the motor over hanging your straightedge.
Which is why I prefer this set up clamped to the wood with 2 small (but strong) C clamps. Just my 37.5 cents worth.
It is made by Johnson in the USA.
the markings are J96 and then 40-0574
Keep in mind that if you get something too tall, you will be limited by the depth of cut from your circular saw due to the motor over hanging your straightedge.
Which is why I prefer this set up clamped to the wood with 2 small (but strong) C clamps. Just my 37.5 cents worth.
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Hiding in a Joshua Tree.