alignment procedures using a dial indicator

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greitz
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alignment procedures using a dial indicator

Post by greitz »

Just came across some procedures for using a dial indicator to align your blade, fence, etc., and measure runout in various ways. They're on In-Line Industries' web site, using their dial indicator system (A-LINE-IT), but the procedures should work with Shopsmith's version also. (These are the same people who make the Dubby cross-cut sled.)

http://www.in-lineindustries.com/shop_tips.html

Gary
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

A dial indicator works great for table to blade alignments with the Mark 5/V. Remember, however, that both trunnions are loose and the entire table moves which changes the readings at both sides of the blade whenever an adjustment is made.

I have abandoned the dial indicator for this particular alignment. There are other much less time consuming methods that are equally accurate.
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pennview
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Post by pennview »

Just make sure before you buy that it will fit the miter slot of the Shopsmith which is narrower than the 3/4" on your typical table saw. You might want to look at the TS Aligner Jr which uses three adjustable bearings instead of a miter bar so it will fit the Shopsmith.
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algale
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Post by algale »

I have the A-Line-It and can confirm the miter bar that comes with it works perfectly in the Shopsmith. It is deliberately undersized but has two adjustable single ball bearings that can be used to get zero slop in the Shopsmith miter slot.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

algale wrote:I have the A-Line-It and can confirm the miter bar that comes with it works perfectly in the Shopsmith. It is deliberately undersized but has two adjustable single ball bearings that can be used to get zero slop in the Shopsmith miter slot.
I never seen a bearing with only one (single) ball.:D
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

JPG40504 wrote:I never seen a bearing with only one (single) ball.:D

So you've never seen a really BAD bearing?:rolleyes:
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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db5
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Why buy one when you can make an alignment jig?

Post by db5 »

Alignment jig made of hardwood and an inexpensive dial indicator. The above jig, consists of a rail that fits snugly in the miter slot and is bolted to a .75" square piece with holes drilled so the rail can be mounted at many positions and the dial indicator mounted at two positions.

This jig allows measuring the distance to the slot of the blade and fence. When measuring the blade distance, it can be used to align the table to the blade, as well as measure blade, arbor, and bearing run-outs. (Picture 1)

Aimed at the fence, it can be used to align the fence to the miter slot. (Picture 2) By attaching an accurate square to the miter gauge in the second miter slot, it can be used to adjust the gauge to a perfect 90 degrees. Once the fence is aligned, it can be moved to the extension table, and the table adjusted so that the fence is square with the main table. (no picture for these).

The jig holds the dial indicator vertical to the surface. This can be used to shim table inserts to be flat with the table, adjust depth of cut of dado blades, and even adjust the depth of router bits. (Picture 3).

Total cost was less than $5 a few years ago.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

If you want/need a jig that will facilitate a quick and accurate Main Table alignment, make yourself one of these.

I can attest that it works fine and takes a lot of the frustration out of this task. However, to be accurate, it needs to be built with near precision.

[ATTACH]18376[/ATTACH]

To use it, simply install it in a miter track on either side of the blade. If the table is properly aligned, one edge of the fixture will be perfectly aligned against one side of the blade. If not, loosen the trunnion bolts so that the table can be moved into the proper position and then tighten the trunnion bolts.

The principle is very simple and probably obvious to every one. The miter tracks are used as the reference to verify parallelism. The jig simply established that parallelism (with the blade) and while doing so, centers the blade in the table insert cutout.
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algale
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Post by algale »

JPG40504 wrote:I never seen a bearing with only one (single) ball.:D
Ok, you got me. I didn't know the correct term for it. Turns out is is a ball plunger kinda like this. http://www.reidsupply.com/sku/W-24/
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Post by JPG »

algale wrote:Ok, you got me. I didn't know the correct term for it. Turns out is is a ball plunger kinda like this. http://www.reidsupply.com/sku/W-24/
Interesting! Maintains pressure against miter track.


Sorry, I was commenting on the ambiguity of our mother tongue, not your description.

Glad I did however since your last post was very revealing!!!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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