Headstock slide lock doesn't work

[JPG]

I escaped disaster. I got lucky. Now I just try to never apply force to the locks. If I am not going vertical, I barely lock the locks. Just tight enough to keep the carriage and headstock from moving.

I spin the levers finger tight and then about 1/4 turn.

That should be more than enough. The wedges really do wedge into the tubes and a very small wedge movement creates considerable clamping force.

That 1/4 turn(or less) guarantees removal of all slop in the clamp.

FWIW IMHO excessive clamping force also increases cold flow/wear of the wedge causing binding of the wedges to the tube.

[mountain4don]

JMHO Insufficient lubrication and gorilla hands.

You mean I should be using a smaller hammer when I beat on my Shopsmiths? I have noticed that the more I use one of my Shopsmiths the easier it is to turn everything and it works better all the time. And I occasionally clean up and vacume and blow out and lube everything as described in the books. But when I leave one set up to do one job for a long time, and run it almost every day in this mode, the things I don't move have the problems. So it looks like the best thing would be to start the Shopsmith up and move all controls on at least a weekly basis to keep every thing free to move.

[dusty]

You mean I should be using a smaller hammer when I beat on my Shopsmiths? I have noticed that the more I use one of my Shopsmiths the easier it is to turn everything and it works better all the time. And I occasionally clean up and vacume and blow out and lube everything as described in the books. But when I leave one set up to do one job for a long time, and run it almost every day in this mode, the things I don't move have the problems. So it looks like the best thing would be to start the Shopsmith up and move all controls on at least a weekly basis to keep every thing free to move.

It is my opinion that movement on that frequent a basis would not be necessary. I can't speak from recent experience because none of my Shopsmith functions go unused for that long a time.

However, I do blow out and lubricate on a very frequent basis. Much more frequently than any official recommendation to do so.

When I know (or suspect) that the Shopsmith is going to set idol for any length of time, I release the carriage, quill and table locks. The last time that I practiced that was when I had my last colonoscopy. You just never know. The night I went in with the arrhythmia, I did not. Furthermore, I did not even give it a thought until four days later when my wife and daughters brought me home. I tried to do it then but they set up a body barricade to prevent me.

[mountain4don]

I have wondered why these parts are on that list. I have has only one incident with the headstock lock and it was the direct result of using the table saw to cut aluminum and then not cleaning up adequately.

Somehow, aluminum shavings got between the rod and the wedges.

I worked on the rod using vise grips in the middle of the rod rather than using the lock handle. In this way, I could apply a bit more force than I could have with the lock handle.

I haven't cut any aluminum on the table saw since.

Here is the situation I am in also. I had the disk sander set up for a long time and was using it to sharpen the lathe chisles. And the tree branch shears. And the wood chisles. I bet a piece of it got in the rod threads somehow.

[dusty]

Here is the situation I am in also. I had the disk sander set up for a long time and was using it to sharpen the lathe chisles. And the tree branch shears. And the wood chisles. I bet a piece of it got in the rod threads somehow.

I would not question that theory. The metal shavings (dust), just like saw dust will penetrate everywhere. It is for this reason that I sharpen somewhere, anywhere other than on the Mark V.

Now having said that, I must think through some recent changes I have made. I moved my belt sander to the left end of the Mark V. It was on a Power Stand. Attaching the DC is a NO NO.

Glad I did not get rid of the Power Stand.

[mountain4don]

After putting some penitrating oil on the threads of the clamping rod yesterday, this morning I went out and it was free to move. No problem! So I played with the knob for awhile moving it back and forth through its full range while I vacummed out the rod inside and outside of the headstock, getting hopfully all the oil off of it, and then relubed it with graphite and it seems to be working without any problems again. Except that I have graphite blown all over everything inside and outside the headstock and on my clothes and hands and arms. And on my shirt. So now its back to my attempt to duplicate stair rail spindles with the Shopsmith Lathe Duplicator that I just received!

[beeg]

GREAT ya got it to work for ya. I recently replaced my two wedges and the rod. The left(front) wedge was the one that was messed up. I cut the wedge in half and found aluminum in the steel threads.

[JPG]

After putting some penitrating oil on the threads of the clamping rod yesterday, this morning I went out and it was free to move. No problem! So I played with the knob for awhile moving it back and forth through its full range while I vacummed out the rod inside and outside of the headstock, getting hopfully all the oil off of it, and then relubed it with graphite and it seems to be working without any problems again. Except that I have graphite blown all over everything inside and outside the headstock and on my clothes and hands and arms. And on my shirt. So now its back to my attempt to duplicate stair rail spindles with the Shopsmith Lathe Duplicator that I just received!

PBTG PTL ABP !!!!! And any other deity of your choice!

Sometime when otherwise bored take the rod etc. out and clean off all rust/corrosion/gunk/crud/whatever from the threads and wedges.(practice with the carriage clamp which is much more accessible). Then penetrol as Ed mentioned and(next day) lube with graphite and put back in place.

Hopefully you will never have it happen again(file the wedge clamping surface flat while disassembled).

[stickthrower]

Well, I am glad I stumbled on this. I was just going to post a question on it. My headstock, and the sliding one neither one is staying put. Driving me nuts. Was trying to do some cuts for a box, and they kept moving. Hadn't realized it and once I had, had ruined half a board of wood.

Looks like I have a project for the weekend!

[fixit]

mountain4don

Did you ever get the lower hub removed from the shaft on the left side of the headstock? You must do that in order to remove the belt cover and gain access to the inside of the headstock to do such things as replace the belts (OR work on the wedge locks ). Sometimes it helps to install the sanding disk on the quill and use vise grips to hold the lower hub while applying torque in both directions with the sanding disk. Be careful not to damage the hub. I would wrap the hub in electricians tape to prevent damaging it.

You might want to make sure it can easily be removed now so you won't have any problem getting to the inside next time you need to do so.