Stuck Miter Gauge!
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mountain4don
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Stuck Miter Gauge!
I mounted my miter gauge in the band saw slot to use as a guide for resawing some lumber. After tightening the allen head screw in the bar that expands and clamps the miter gauge in the slot, I had to loosen it to make adjustments. But it wouldn't loosen. It was stuck and the allen wrench turned in the hole. Not good. I finally got the miter gauge out by pouring WD-40 on the bar and letting it sit overnight and then dismantled the top and handle off the miter gauge and driving it out of the slot with a hammer and copper bar so not to damage the steel miter gauge bar. So, now what should I do? I haven't tried removing the stuck expander plug yet. Although now I may be able to turn it out with an allen wrench. Or drill it out and use an easy-out on it. And what should be the maintenance on this expander plug? Is it lubricated with anything? Should I remove it and wire brush it and the hole and put something on it so this doesn't happen again? 
Don, on the hill in Mid-Missouri
First thing I'd do is to dress the end of the allen wrench to make the flats square again. Use some graphite on the screw threads.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
If you tap gently a flat screwdriver or two into the split in the miter bar or either side of the screw that expands the bar, you should be able to spread the bar ever so slightly to easily remove the screw. You'll likely need a replacement if you rounded the female hex-shaped hole in the screw. A bit of wax on the screw may help lubricate it in the future.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
The setscrew is a tapered one and if got too far in the hole it might have gone to a place that a point of no return. It also could be that someone had replaced the set screw with a wrong one.... ie not tapered.
You will have to contact shopsmith for a replacement, hope you need some other items as the postage is going to feel like way too much for a single set screw.
When tightening just go to the point where it is locked and will not move, no farther then that.
Ed
You will have to contact shopsmith for a replacement, hope you need some other items as the postage is going to feel like way too much for a single set screw.
When tightening just go to the point where it is locked and will not move, no farther then that.
Ed
- JPG
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You might try a 4(or 5) mm allen wrench, and if that is too big, file a taper on all six flat so it will wedge tightly into the hex hole. Then apply sufficient rotary force to get it started backing out. Wedging the slot would likely help as suggested.
However if the screw center is no longer hex shaped, an easy out or drilling it out may be the only solution.
Also if not already tried, slip the 5/32" wrench almost up to the bend from the short end and place a piece of tubing over the long end and really apply torque. Do realize that the wrench might break if the screw is 'frozen'. The tube prevents the long end from bending, but nothing protects the short end near the bend.
However if the screw center is no longer hex shaped, an easy out or drilling it out may be the only solution.
Also if not already tried, slip the 5/32" wrench almost up to the bend from the short end and place a piece of tubing over the long end and really apply torque. Do realize that the wrench might break if the screw is 'frozen'. The tube prevents the long end from bending, but nothing protects the short end near the bend.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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mountain4don
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- Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2012 1:06 pm
- Location: Jefferson City, MO
Got wedge stud out
Thanks everybody for your help. I wedged screwdrivers into the slot on each side of the taper screw and got it out. I cleaned up the threads in the miter gauge bar and they look good, but the threads on the taper screw have a line across them like something had been put in the slot against the taper screw and damaged them. So I will order a new one. On another note, my miter gauge is missing the special washer and screw at the end of the bar away from the handel that is inset into the bottom side and rides against the table in the slot. Shown here: http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/part ... xpview.htm
as parts 283 and 284. What purpose do these parts serve? I have been using this for a year now without them?
as parts 283 and 284. What purpose do these parts serve? I have been using this for a year now without them?
Don, on the hill in Mid-Missouri
- dusty
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If you pull the miter gauge toward you (infeed side) so that it is off the table, the washer prevents it from tipping (falling to the floor). As you have discovered, it does nothing to improve normal operation (other than that).mountain4don wrote:Thanks everybody for your help. I wedged screwdrivers into the slot on each side of the taper screw and got it out. I cleaned up the threads in the miter gauge bar and they look good, but the threads on the taper screw have a line across them like something had been put in the slot against the taper screw and damaged them. So I will order a new one. On another note, my miter gauge is missing the special washer and screw at the end of the bar away from the handel that is inset into the bottom side and rides against the table in the slot. Shown here: http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/partscat/mitergaugeexpview.htm
as parts 283 and 284. What purpose do these parts serve? I have been using this for a year now without them?
I have two miter gauges. One with and the other without the washer (and screw). I use them interchangeably.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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mountain4don
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- Location: Jefferson City, MO
Miter Slot
Thanks pennview and everybody else that responded. Both of my Shopsmiths are model 500's so I guess that answers the question why I don't have the screw and washer on the bottom of my miter gauge bar.pennview wrote:Also, you can't use it on a model 500 Shopsmith because it doesn't have the grove for the washer in the miter slot.
Don, on the hill in Mid-Missouri