Needing a Miter Guage

lightnin · Post by **lightnin** » Wed Sep 26, 2012 11:30 pm

Miterset has some fans here maybe look into it.

marcp1956 · Post by **marcp1956** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:38 am

Mmmm.... another necessity. Very interesting read.

reible · Post by **reible** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 1:44 am

It is my belief that the shopsmith miter gauge with the hold down is one of the best miter gauges out there. While I have several options of miter gauges/sleds I would say that 90% of my work is done with the shopsmith miter gauge.

It wasn't too many years ago that I got an incra 2000 (well maybe it was a while ago at that). I purchased it because I was working on a project that required me to keep changing the settings. That got old real fast so I figured that I'd save enough time by having the positive stops over the time it took to reset the shopsmith one and check it for every change that it would pay for itself. It did but most people are not going to get into such a project ever in their live.

It may take a few moments longer to get the angle set but hey it works. It also has the lock in place feature, works on the bandsaw, belt sander, joint-matic, and all the other shopsmith tools... It is simple, it holds the wood, attachments are easy to make... lots of good things about it.

I think if you have a shopsmith you need the shopsmith miter gauge. If you want to expand later to another one fine but you can go a long way with this one.

Ed

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:23 am

And an extension would be a nice quickie project. Easy to make - cut to size, drill/counter bore two holes - add bolts and thumb nuts (and washers?) and yer done! Only critical dimensions are height and hole locations. The height should be 2x the top of bar to the hole centers dimension to allow reversing(left side/right side). The holes are spaced from the 'blade end' to the miter gauge bolt slots. The over all length can vary.

oldc6 · Post by **oldc6** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 3:12 pm

Today working on a couple of mail truck banks.

need to drill holes in each end of blanks to hold axles and wheels

they must be straight and true. set the SS to horizontal drill, install fence and used miter gauge.....straight[ATTACH]18589[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]18590[/ATTACH] and true

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 5:12 pm

Sharp bit, drill at low speed, clearing chips and debris often.
Just a tip from a pen maker who does this kind of drilling often.

marcp1956 · Post by **marcp1956** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 7:06 pm

Thanks OC6, pictures make things really clear. I have not yet received nor have I ever used a miter guage on a table saw - so some of the information I read goes over my head. Once I start using it things will start making sense. Just from the picture you posted I can see how this will help me in drilling an axle hole for a toy tractor that I am making. THANKS!

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 8:15 pm

As a novice, just be aware that you always want to use a miter gauge (or other fixture like a crosscut sled) when cross cutting stock. Never, never try to cut a board on a table saw/Shopsmith free hand. Also, never use the miter gauge in conjunction with the rip fence when making a through cross cut.

If you don't have a copy of "Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone" by R.J. DeCristoforo, you should get a copy. You can find a used one with google for about a dollar plus shipping.

marcp1956 · Post by **marcp1956** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 10:33 pm

I just purchased the book along with the shopsmith study course.

oldc6 · Post by **oldc6** » Tue Oct 09, 2012 5:01 pm

Drilling hose for steering wheel --mail truck bank[ATTACH]18720[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]18721[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]18722[/ATTACH]

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