No, Gene, I haven't found anything special when it come to sawing really hard wood. Lenox is a good brand and I would have expected that the bi-metal variety would last better, so I guess the only really decent one would be carbide. I think that the Shopsmith because of the 11 inch wheels prevents us from using thicker (.032 or .035") blades, which I'd expect would last a bit longer.
Here's a guy in North Carolina that welds up Lenox blades at a decent price (you need to buy five to get the best price) -- http://www.woodcraftbands.com/index.htm
I bought blades from this guy some 10-15 years ago, but since then I've picked up quite a few blades at auctions, etc., so have not needed to order from him more recently.
Bandsaw Blades
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- dusty
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Gene, is mesquite infested with silicon (desert sand)? Is that why it is so hard to cut and so destructive on saw blades?Gene Howe wrote:I use a Lenox bi-metal 4 TPI blades to resaw mesquite. I'm satisfied with the cut quality. I am NOT satisfied with how fast it dulls. But then, it is mesquite.
If so, maybe a blade that is intended for metal would last longer.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
lv2wdwrk wrote:I think that is 72" +- 1/2
and it doesn't hekp when a blade from a different manufacturer comes in a package labelled 72 1/2.
Which, when you stretch out and unwrinkle the wrapper you see it really says 72" (space space space) 1/2" blade.
;-)
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
Yes. Wood Slicer. Plus one more.wood2turn wrote:Anyone use any other brand of bandsaw blades?
...
Most of mine are Shopsmith blades which I consider excellent when purposed. Thus I have a few, all different ('cept one dup of the 1/4 "Standard").
One for heavy re-saw. One for 'fine' re-saw. One fer tight fine curves. One fer... you get the idea. Use 'em for what they're meant for and they perForm. (I've gotten 'em over time when on sale, in case you were wonderin.)
But I have one odd one. Got it from Woodcraft, only because it was on sale. 72" and I think it was even marked 'for SS'.
But what's odd about it is that it's 1/4, .025, 14 tooth, okay, But it's not the typical "Raker" tooth pattern- left, right, raker, left right, raker, etc.
This one is a left, raker, left, right, raker, left, raker, etc.
It's almost a version of the Smooth 5/8" Re-saw SS blade that has variable 3-4 teeth to eliminate harmonics (discussed recently on the forum).
The teeth are smaller too, by way of much shallower gullets. This "feature" will clog up if the feed is at all aggressive, but used properly produces incredibly Un-biased and amazingly smooth (joint ready) cuts, cross- , rip or re-saw (under 4").
When I realized I was wearing this out 'cause I was using it for dang near everthing I went back to Woodcraft to get another. (sigh) I've never been able to find another like it again.
This brings me to suggest something, along with something I noticed in the SS catalog yesterday. If you find a really good "outside" blade, buy a spare. It may not be there later. This is true of SS blades too. Not all are still available. And some are very very good.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;