problem w/ horizontal way tube lock

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jeeperjohn
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Post by jeeperjohn »

dusty wrote:Bill,

Is it possible to assemble with the way tube set and the bench tube set reversed.

This would make the total span 3/4" shorter than it should be. Would the dimensions even allow the bench tubes to then be inserted where the way tubes should be.

It seems that it would certainly make the tie bar not seat properly in the head rest.
Yes it is possible. Not that I did it putting mine back together. ;)
osx-addict
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Post by osx-addict »

Thanks everyone for the great suggestions and for the photo's Dusty! The problem is on the headrest lock end of things and I believe several of you are correct in the fact that it's likely that the tubes are not fully seated where they ought to be causing the head rest lock to not fully engage (the "V" shaped groove is pretty well chewed up). Anyway, I'm thinking that I'll need to go over this machine with a fine tooth comb to see what other gotchas are there... I know at this point that I'm missing the drill press chuck and some of the allen wrench tools (since replaced with a trip to the local Ace H/W store -- the allen wrenches that is)..

What's the best way to clean up the sanding disc? Mine is gunked up with lots of old glue -- am I better off just sitting it in a shallow tray of mineral spirits for a day or two to loosen the old stuff off? Thx!

-- Rick
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Gampa
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Post by Gampa »

There are two suggestions I have seen, heard of, and or used for removing old sanding paper from the disc. Place the disk in a just warm oven for a few minutes to soften the glue or place the disk in hot water to soften the glue and then pull the old sand paper off. I used the oven method and it worked great just be sure to have a hot pad ready. Then clean the disk with mineral spirits or paint thinner to remove any remaining glue before applying the new sand paper or (seeing as how your disk is now clean) this would also be a great time to upgrade to the velcro backing and sand paper system.
Enjoy a little sawdust therapy

Walt
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osx-addict
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Post by osx-addict »

Grandpa --

Thanks for the reply.. In my case, the disc has no paper on it -- just a mess of old glues in varying layers.. I'm concerned that if I just glue on another paper disc that there will be non-flat spots here and there where the glue build-up is beneath the paper.. I guess I could just pitch it and get the newer velcro model if the cost isn't too high.. Although I do have 5-6 brand new sanding papers that came with it..
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Don't pitch even if you buy new ones. I have five (two are conical). It's a lot easier to change disks than it is to change paper.

You'll be able to clean it up. Heat, mineral spirits and some elbow grease. Don't scrap it. Keep it as smooth as possible.

Unlike most everything else Shopsmith - don't wax it.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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nuhobby
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Post by nuhobby »

I had a stubborn old one last winter.... I put it in the Tailstock via the tailstock arbor, and brought my newer sanding-disk to bear on it, removing the adhesives and getting the high spots knocked down as well.

Enjoy,
Chris
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Post by osx-addict »

Thanks guys! I'll do as you suggest (not throwing it out) and will see what I can do to remove the crap.. I'm sure leaving it in some mineral spirits over night can't possibly hurt it at all :).. If it gets some of the crap off then that's a bit less to scrape off..

I've learned the hard way that stuff needs waxing.. Unfortunately, nobody told me that when I bought my older model Delta table saw or my Jet jointer.. Both have mild surface rust on the non-painted decks.. I've also got to clean them up before they find new homes (I've got the maximize my return afterall!)
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

After I use heat to remove old discs, I use lacquer thinner to remove the old sanding disc adhesive residue.
Rob in San Diego
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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

osx-addict wrote:Thanks guys! I'll do as you suggest (not throwing it out) and will see what I can do to remove the crap.. I'm sure leaving it in some mineral spirits over night can't possibly hurt it at all :).. If it gets some of the crap off then that's a bit less to scrape off..

I've learned the hard way that stuff needs waxing.. Unfortunately, nobody told me that when I bought my older model Delta table saw or my Jet jointer.. Both have mild surface rust on the non-painted decks.. I've also got to clean them up before they find new homes (I've got the maximize my return afterall!)
Hi osx-addict,
Do a search. There are a couple of threads here somewhere, with some alternate methods, that will be helpful to you. Do not "pitch" it. It will clean, and replacing it wll be in the neighborhood of $40.
Tim

Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

osx-addict wrote:hi all...

I found that the horizontal way tube lock isn't engaging properly due to the way tube appearing like they're too long to allow the lock to function properly.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachm ... 1205184979

I THINK I might know what your problem is, and if not it still needs to be adjusted. The latch screw seems to be adjusted out to much, mine only sticks out maybe a eighth of an inch.

Close the latch, tighten down the screw till it's JUST snug. Open and close the latch a couple times to see how it feels. Adjust accordingly, it should open and close fairly easily.

IF you use a scraper on your disk sander, use a PLASTIC one, so it won't scratch/gouge the disk. Might want to use a rough cloth on it instead, that is after you've soaked it with paint thinner for awhile. It will come clean.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
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Bob
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