How do you drill a clean hole in sheet goods?

paulrussell · Post by **paulrussell** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 1:25 pm

I am making some shop tool stands, and am making every project a bit fancier than needed to practice woodworking skills on my shop furniture. One thing I've been doing is countersinking screws and making wood plugs.

However, I've had trouble drilling nice clean holes and countersinks in the middles of sheet goods where the drill press doesn't reach. I do it in two steps, 3/8 countersink hole with brad bit first, and follow with twist bit to make through hole for screw centered in brad point.

However when I try to do this with the hand drill, I have troubles getting countersink depth right, and sometimes end up with less-than-round countersinks which don't plug well.

I can think of two possible solutions (I'm sure there are more) the first being getting those combination drill bits with tapered countersinks, or getting one of those jigs to guide a hand drill (Such as the General Tools "Accudrill")

But before I start tossing money at the problem, I thought I'd ask what the folks here recommend.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 1:39 pm

A couple of possibilities, Paul. If you have a self centering dowling jig like this one -- http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page ... te=ROCKLER -- you can simply place it over the spot you need the hole and drill away. If not, you could take a piece of 2x4 and drill an appropriately sized hole on the drill press and use that as a guide for keeping the hand drill vertical.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 2:57 pm

pennview wrote:A couple of possibilities, Paul. If you have a self centering dowling jig like this one -- http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=857&site=ROCKLER -- you can simply place it over the spot you need the hole and drill away. If not, you could take a piece of 2x4 and drill an appropriately sized hole on the drill press and use that as a guide for keeping the hand drill vertical.

Twist drill bits make crummy countersink holes.

A recent thread discussed that.

I will try to find it.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... ountersink

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:06 pm

I think Paul said he was using a brad point bit, which does make nice neat holes, but a forstner would likely do better.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:12 pm

pennview wrote:I think Paul said he was using a brad point bit, which does make nice neat holes, but a forstner would likely do better.

Hoookay.

The subject is counter bored holes, not counter sink holes.]especially[/B] when using a hand held drill.

paulrussell · Post by **paulrussell** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 8:52 pm

Okay, bored not sunk.

Thanks!

sailseahawk · Post by **sailseahawk** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:33 pm

Paul,
I concur with Pennview; use scrap wood guide block to keep your drill vertical and steady. An unsteady hand or a damaged bit are the only things I can think of that would cause your counterbore to be elongated.

Twist bits are better for "construction" grade projects than "furniture" grade. I use Brad points for all my "serious" wood projects, and twist for drilling pilot holes in walls and such.

For depth, stop collars are nice, but a couple wraps of masking tape around the bit will provide a good depth stop indication.

You can always find a piece of scrap and practice drilling steady and perfecting your technique. It does take practice to develop.

Jigs are nice but for many projects may not be necessary after you practice.

Let us know how you progress.

Seahawk

paulrussell · Post by **paulrussell** » Thu Oct 25, 2012 3:54 pm

I knew I could count on this crowd for good answers. I really like the idea of drilling a 2x4 as a guide block. As I've been setting up my new workshop, I've tried to look the other way as much as possible, but my wallet is noticeably thinner, and anything that keeps me from having to spend bucks is great.

BTW, I found a bunch of paperwork from the original owner of my Shopsmith ... the regular price for the Mark V was 1299, and the demo special price was 999.

I'll be sure to post pics in the very near future of my shop projects. Thanks again to all who replied.

garys · Post by **garys** » Fri Oct 26, 2012 12:26 pm

pennview wrote:I think Paul said he was using a brad point bit, which does make nice neat holes, but a forstner would likely do better.

That's what I use. I drill one side with a forstner bit until the point just comes through. Then I flip it and finish from the other side. The larger the bit, the easier it is because the larger bit self aligns itself so a hand drill makes quick and easy work of it.

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Fri Oct 26, 2012 1:22 pm

When you say "hand drill" are you talking about a electric drill, or a brace? I find it difficult to stay perfectly square with a brace. Much less so with an electric drill.

I'm not sure I'm understanding you on switching from a brad bit to a standard twist bit. A brad bit cuts far cleaner than a standard twist bit will, with less effort, and doesn't wander the way a twist bit will. Given the choice, I would drill the hole with the brad bit for better results.

Now maybe you're just using the twist bit for countersinking after you drill the through hole. And if the hole is 3/8", a twist bit tends to chatter a bit and not make a uniform hole. A shouldered or sleeved countersink bit will do the job far better. As for depth, a bit mounted stop works quite well.