Push Stick Options

[bobw1953]

I have used home made push sticks for years and also have the Shopsmith versions. I find them all very good and have experienced no problems using either. The idea of Rubber has some real merit though, I think I will try that.

[dusty]

I would imagine that this was a bare handed (no push block) ordeal - on an 8" jointer no less.

I wonder if he was taking a 1/16" cut or was he going for the whole enchilada.

May he heal rapidly and have no psychological problems as a result. When I had my accident with the shaper, I was not about to use it again. I am just now thinking about trying it.

[osx-addict]

...When I had my accident with the shaper, I was not about to use it again..

Should I even ask...

[fjimp]

Today I visited the (groan) local Sears store. It was the only place in town that had the yellow, Craftsman Table Saw Push Shoe in stock. Sears is selling them for $12.99. I would far rather pay Shopsmith for something similar. Jim

[reible]

I would imagine that this was a bare handed (no push block) ordeal - on an 8" jointer no less.

I wonder if he was taking a 1/16" cut or was he going for the whole enchilada.

May he heal rapidly and have no psychological problems as a result. When I had my accident with the shaper, I was not about to use it again. I am just now thinking about trying it.

Hi,

It takes a bit of reading but the whole thing gets explained and even what he does for a living and the fact he is a safe woodworker. He even posts towards the end. Well worth the educational read.

Certainlly things will have changed in his life, and those around him... and I hope in some of you. Safety really needs to be job one and if this event will keep more of us safe then at least we have that good coming out of it.

Stay safe and watch it out there in the shop.

Ed

[charlese]

I would imagine that this was a bare handed (no push block) ordeal - on an 8" jointer no less.

I wonder if he was taking a 1/16" cut or was he going for the whole enchilada.

May he heal rapidly and have no psychological problems as a result. When I had my accident with the shaper, I was not about to use it again. I am just now thinking about trying it.

Here's an excerpt from one of the postings from the link from reible:
"...Here is what happened, &#8221]
The error is clear! "left hand near the front of the stock" NEVER - NEVER have a hand or finger closer than 3" from the cutter head. Kirby says 6"!

The feed side of the jointer is the push side & the outfeed side is the pull side. Downward pressure should have been applied to the leading edge of the board with a stick (a pad is best). But at first the piece is pushed. When the leading edge of the board is clear of the cutters, and in a position to grasp (or use a push pad) - then pull it on through from the outfeed table. During the pulling the right hand shifts from a pusher to a downward holder.

BTW a later post said the board was 16" long. Length doesn't matter if hands are close to the cutterhead!

[Ed in Tampa]

The current issue of Wood Magazine issue 183 page 20 shows the author dipping push sticks into plastic/rubber coating. He mentions he also does the handles for a softer and firmer grip.

One thing the article mentions is on push blocks to rough up the push surface before coating it to give better slip resistance.

The article recommend several coats of the Plasti Dip.
Ed

[berry]

Nice looking shelf - I'd be interested in learning more about it too.

- Chris

Do you have any details on your "Accessory Tray 1" I like the fact that it lowers the center of gravity. How did you attach it? Does it interfere with the casters?

Paul & Chris - you had interest in the accessory shelves I added to my SS. Here’s how I remember making my accessory shelves. The sizes are actual. The rails are hardwood (cherry) and the shelf bases are ½” OSB (plywood or mdf would work).

My ’83 unit had 4 holes pre-drilled in each of the legs – 2 on each side. I reasoned they must be there for me to mount a shelf so that's what I did. The stock for the upper was 2 5/8 x 1. Overall width is 13 ½ “. After cutting the rails to size, I clamped the first rail in position and carefully marked the 4 hole locations. Then I repeated for the other side. Where marked, I drilled these to accept threaded inserts. Then, using my stacked dado head, I cut a groove in each side to accept the shelf. The table has to be tilted, about 10 degrees to accommodate the splay of the legs. (The rails fit flush to the legs.)

I added the threaded inserts and test fit the rails. I cut the shelf to the correct length and then ripped to approximate size knowing I’d trim it to fit exactly as I went. I attached one of the rails and tried to fit the shelf base and second rail. I repeated until I had a tight fit.

I added a couple of extensions to the upper unit. One is on the non-operator and the other on the operator side. These extend just a couple of inches into the knee-knocking zone, and at least for me, are rarely a problem.

The lower shelf unit ‘rides’ on the steel rod that connects the casters. (Not the bar that turns the cam raising and lowering the casters, but the other one. See the detail picture.)The overall width of the lower unit is 10 1/2“. The rails are 1 x 2. The length of the rails is the distance between the 2 ‘axles’ plus 1” on both ends. I started with a 1 x 4 and drilled a hole at each end of the board, just a bit larger than the 'axle', centered on the 4” dimension and spaced apart the distance between the ‘axles’. Next, I ripped that board in half. After that I made a groove in both halves to accept the shelf base.

This does not interfere with the casters other than it’s more of toe operation rather than using the ball of the foot.

That’s it. Here are the pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/berry63/

[paulmcohen]

My &#8217]pre-drilled[/U] in each of the legs – 2 on each side. I reasoned they must be there for me to mount a shelf so that's what I did. The stock for the upper was 2 5/8 x 1. Overall width is 13 ½ “. After cutting the rails to size, I clamped the first rail in position and carefully marked the 4 hole locations. Then I repeated for the other side. Where marked, I drilled these to accept threaded inserts. Then, using my stacked dado head, I cut a groove in each side to accept the shelf. The table has to be tilted, about 10 degrees to accommodate the splay of the legs. (The rails fit flush to the legs.)

The top holes are for an accessory shelf that normally sticks out from the unit and holds many of the items in fixed location. I have one on my 520 if you need a picture or you can look on the Shopsmith site. I need to study you bottom shelf more, that is the one I am interested in.