Some of the jigs we use ride in the miter slot and it is nice if the edge of the jig just touches the saw blade. As I am sure others have before me, I solved the problem with a simple stop block that stops the table carriage the same distance from my PP case every time. I tend to use ZCI and this means no jiggling the table to get the blade through the slot cleanly.
Forrest
Setting saw blade the same distance from miter slot
Moderator: admin
Setting saw blade the same distance from miter slot
Forrest
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
I find the rubber ring on both of my shopsmith machines works perfectly and I don't need to be concerned about damage from a wooden block hitting the headstock or table. Jim
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
rubber ring
Yeh, mine used to do the same thing but over the last 30 years it pretty much disintegrated. To lazy to buy a new one? but this will last a really long time and, being wood, won't damage either item IMHO.
If for some reason you want the table to be a bit further away from the headstock this would work by making it the thickness needed.
Forrest
If for some reason you want the table to be a bit further away from the headstock this would work by making it the thickness needed.
Forrest
Forrest
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
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terrydowning
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1678
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
Not to mention the older machines never had the rubber ring.
Clever idea Forrest.
Clever idea Forrest.
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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
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robinson46176
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
Looks like it should be fine. It could be made narrower and faced with firm rubber if you wanted some give under impact.
The old Mark VII had table positioning built in and adjustable...
.
The old Mark VII had table positioning built in and adjustable...
.
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
The Mark 5 Gilmer had a bolt that protruded from the carriage and butted against the headstock. At least until the first time one forgot to secure the headstock prior to raising to vertical.
The later Poly-v Mark 5 had a plastic ring spacer. Mine still does.
As Farmer stated, the Mark VII had a long shaft with index grooves attached to the carriage that allowed it to register to more than one position(remember, it has the dual blade slots). This also allowed the carriage to move with the headstock.
The rubber spacer was evolved with the larger table systems.
Can anyone verify what the early SS Inc. model had?
The later Poly-v Mark 5 had a plastic ring spacer. Mine still does.
As Farmer stated, the Mark VII had a long shaft with index grooves attached to the carriage that allowed it to register to more than one position(remember, it has the dual blade slots). This also allowed the carriage to move with the headstock.
The rubber spacer was evolved with the larger table systems.
Can anyone verify what the early SS Inc. model had?
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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foxtrapper
- Gold Member
- Posts: 439
- Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:05 am
OK, that's good for ensuring the relationship between the table and headstock stays uniform, but since the quill can still be moved, the saw blade isn't consistent.
I made the jump that you'd made up a simple jig that fits into the table groove, always centering the blade in the table at the same spot. Which seems like darn usefull jig. So, congratulations to you for coming up with the notion!
I made the jump that you'd made up a simple jig that fits into the table groove, always centering the blade in the table at the same spot. Which seems like darn usefull jig. So, congratulations to you for coming up with the notion!