10ER Caster Assembly Disassembly

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Feb 19, 2013 2:02 pm

frank81 wrote:Putting aluminum in with steel during electrolysis will cause galvanic corrosion. You will create more pits than already existed under the rust.

THAT would be 'confused' chemistry!!!;)

frank81 · Post by **frank81** » Tue Feb 19, 2013 2:13 pm

[quote="JPG40504"]THAT would be 'confused' chemistry!!!]

Is there any other kind of chemistry?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Feb 19, 2013 2:21 pm

frank81 wrote:Is there any other kind of chemistry?

Organic? Body? Emotional?

fredsheldon · Post by **fredsheldon** » Tue Feb 19, 2013 2:29 pm

So, will it do any harm to dunk the whole thing in evapo-rust overnight. I haven't had any issues with other alum parts that I have dropped into my bucket overnight, (That I'm aware of)

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Feb 19, 2013 2:40 pm

fredsheldon wrote:So, will it do any harm to dunk the whole thing in evapo-rust overnight. I haven't had any issues with other alum parts that I have dropped into my bucket overnight, (That I'm aware of)

I would be less concerned with Evaporust.

I defer to your experience as to any damage to the aluminum part.

If it ain't harmed, it's ok.

The Evaporust will be eventually depleted anyway.

MickyD said that he knows why it is called Evaporust - It 'evaporates' over night in a shallow open container.

frank81 · Post by **frank81** » Tue Feb 19, 2013 3:15 pm

fredsheldon wrote:So, will it do any harm to dunk the whole thing in evapo-rust overnight. I haven't had any issues with other alum parts that I have dropped into my bucket overnight, (That I'm aware of)

Galvanic corrsion requires electricity so that won't happen with Evapo-rust. That was a concern for the steel parts, not the aluminum.

I don't know what's in Evapo-rust but you may get extra oxidation or slight etching and have to work harder cleaning the aluminum up. I work for an aluminum boat manufacturer and when they run the hulls through the acid bath before the primer booth, they get cloudy but it can be buffed out. I would think our acid is nastier than anything they will sell in stores.

kschwarz20 · Post by **kschwarz20** » Tue Feb 19, 2013 4:05 pm

Back to the question of replacing the Pins. I reused most of the ones I took out as they were not damaged, but I did need to replace a few of them. I just bought ones about the same size as the ones I took out.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Feb 19, 2013 8:50 pm

kschwarz20 wrote:Back to the question of replacing the Pins. I reused most of the ones I took out as they were not damaged, but I did need to replace a few of them. I just bought ones about the same size as the ones I took out.

????????????

Truth be told, galvanic 'action' produces electricity.

frank81 · Post by **frank81** » Tue Feb 19, 2013 11:32 pm

After round one of BFH vs. Spring pins the score is one pin removed and 3 punches ruined. Maybe these were Stanley and not Craftsman, couldn't find a logo. Either way, guess I'll be tool shopping during lunch tomorrow.

frank81 · Post by **frank81** » Tue Feb 19, 2013 11:47 pm

JPG40504 wrote:The pins if rusted will be stubborn to get started, but once broken loose, they will come out(still tight though). The freezer trick is not necessary once the pins are cleaned up. I doubt the heat trick will help, as the pins are usually frozen to the rod holes, not the aluminum foot pedal. IIRC, the pins are 1/8", but once the end reaches the steel rod, a smaller punch may be needed to clear the hole in the rod.

Avoid mushrooming the pin end.

I saw another reply to this question for a Mark V 500 that said 5/32" pin. That is the case for my assembly as well, the 1/8" punch was slipping inside of the pin. I have a high serial # er so not sure if it applies to all of them. Just adding that observation if anyone searches for their problem and finds this thread.