Ripping Miters?

markap · Post by **markap** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 2:40 pm

Hi,

For a turning project I wanted to rip 60 degree miters on some strips of wood about 2 inches wide, 1 inch thick and 7 inches long. Couldn't figure out how to safely do it on the Shopsmith. Any suggestions? Has anyone built a jig for this sort of situation?

Thanks,

Mark

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 3:07 pm

Something like that was the one time I launched a big ol' Kickback on my SS tablesaw. I won't do it that way again

.

I would rough-cut them with a bandsaw and then touch up with a handplane or even a basic 12" sanding-disk jig of some sort.

If you're able to assemble these stave-elements in stages, then of course you can build up a couple of 'semi-cylinders" which can be "trued" against a sanding disk, for a final gap-free total cylinder glue-up of the 2 halves.

Good luck, let us see your "beaut" when done!

curiousgeorge · Post by **curiousgeorge** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 3:29 pm

Mark, I would start with a full piece of wood the correct thickness and at least 4" to 6" wide by whatever length will give the amount of 7" long pieces you need. Rip the 60 deg. edge on the full board. Then you can rip to desired width safely and then cut to length. The safest way I can think of.

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 3:46 pm

Let's be clear about the terminology here.

Miter is typically a cross cut I see no problem with taking a 60 degree miter cut if you use a sled to hold everything fast. Depending on how much stock you have to hold on to. I've never heard of anyone losing a finger when a clamp is doing the holding.

If you mean making a 60 degree bevel cut the length of the stock, then I would not do it.

Reason 1: 7 inch stock is much too short for ripping on any 10 inch table saw. Not just a SS. You're just asking for disaster IMHO. Tried with straight cuts on stock that short and got very very lucky that I did not lose a finger.

Reason 2: I'm pretty much averse to bevel cuts on my SS. I just don't feel comfortable doing bevel cuts. I've had kick back cutting bevels.

For stock this small I would go straight to a hand plane. Much better result and much safer.

markap · Post by **markap** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 7:30 pm

Sorry about the misuse of terminology. The wood is "rainbow wood" that I'm using to make ice cream scoops. Using some sacrificial wood to maintain an offset, my feather boards and a couple push sticks I was able to make 45 degree cuts with no problem and sand them to exact fit. Unfortunately the handle is only 4 pieces instead of six that I planned to use. I don't think I could manage to plane (within a reasonable time frame) accurately enough for the flush fit I needed before glue up. I'll post some picks when I get a chance. Maybe it's time for a small dedicated table saw - just need to find room for it.

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 7:38 pm

Personally, I find that sharp hand tools are much faster for small pieces than power tools. Just a personal observation. I'm actually starting to move away from using machines for smaller items. I find that they they just let me make bigger mistakes much faster.

Wood turning is whole different story though. Although, I may yet make a treadle lathe, just to give it a try.

J R in MO/TX · Post by **J R in MO/TX** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 1:26 pm

Yes you can, with a table sled. Make Simple Sled. Remove Lower Saw Guard, now set table tilted to the 60 degree for Bevel/Rip cut. Remove the table insert, the sled becomes the Zero Clearance Insert. Now bring Table down or Saw Blade up to cut the correct angle through sled for the project.
Now is the time to square a 2X4 back fence to blade. With back fence square to blade, make the Rip Fence, using scrap piece same thickness of project material fasten to down side of sled, snug against to lower portion of blade. On the top this Rip Fence, glue a few ¼ X 1” X 4” “Tabs”. This will be the hold downs for your work. They will be cut to correct length on first test cut.
Simple as mud Yes? Using this principle I make small diamonds, cut at 30 degree miters to make the 6 (six) point Snowflakes as demo by WoodWorkingMereMortals.
I too am a newbie with less than 20 hours on my used but new to me ShopSmith Mark V.
J R

randyrls · Post by **randyrls** » Thu Mar 07, 2013 9:46 am

markap wrote:Hi,

For a turning project I wanted to rip 60 degree miters on some strips of wood about 2 inches wide, 1 inch thick and 7 inches long. Couldn't figure out how to safely do it on the Shopsmith. Any suggestions? Has anyone built a jig for this sort of situation?

Thanks,

Mark

Mark; Have you thought of the bandsaw? If tuned properly so it cuts straight, make the cuts on the bandsaw and then touch up with the sanding disk or hand plain / sandpaper.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Mar 07, 2013 10:06 am

A '60 degree' bevel to the table, is a '30 degree' bevel to the fence. Feed the 'edge' like you would if jointing the edge.

That short length is a disaster waiting.

I also would prefer the band saw!

Hand* sand using 12" disk for gooder fit.

* Not rotating.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Mar 07, 2013 10:12 am

[quote="JPG40504"]A '60 degree' bevel to the table, is a '30 degree' bevel to the fence. Feed the 'edge' like you would if jointing the edge.

That short length is a disaster waiting.

I also would prefer the band saw!

Hand* sand using 12" disk for gooder fit.]

unless you develop some sort of fixture to hold the work piece.