Suggestions to remove a stuck chuck?
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- idcook
- Gold Member
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Wed Mar 06, 2013 4:48 pm
- Location: New York (Alley cat country), New York
Suggestions to remove a stuck chuck?
They say that one good turn deserves another and, as some may have noted, my initial difficulty with this Mark V chuck have returned to possibly have a hand in the machine not turning at all by way of a broken Gilmer belt.
To be completely fair that may have more to do with my decision to rig up a shaft to fit to the arbor and drill chuck because … I CAN’T GET THIS BLASTED THING OFF! (The chuck, not my rigged doohicky)
The previous owner told me that he’d only used it as a drill press for the last however many years. I’d suspect that was a sideways clue that he’d had the same problem, but he’d also said that he did use the saw function during the earlier stage of his possession.
Anyway, anyone got any ideas as to how I can remove this here stuck chuck so that I can connect the saw blades as originally intended?
Thanks for any suggestions/solutions offered.
To be completely fair that may have more to do with my decision to rig up a shaft to fit to the arbor and drill chuck because … I CAN’T GET THIS BLASTED THING OFF! (The chuck, not my rigged doohicky)
The previous owner told me that he’d only used it as a drill press for the last however many years. I’d suspect that was a sideways clue that he’d had the same problem, but he’d also said that he did use the saw function during the earlier stage of his possession.
Anyway, anyone got any ideas as to how I can remove this here stuck chuck so that I can connect the saw blades as originally intended?
Thanks for any suggestions/solutions offered.
Can ya post a pic? Where is the set screw, in relation to the flat on the spindle? WHAT have ya done in the past to get it off?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Gotta tell us just what is stuck. Is it the set screw that you can't loosen? Or is it the chuck frozen onto the spindle after the set screw has been removed? Or is it something else?idcook wrote:They say that one good turn deserves another and, as some may have noted, my initial difficulty with this Mark V chuck have returned to possibly have a hand in the machine not turning at all by way of a broken Gilmer belt.
To be completely fair that may have more to do with my decision to rig up a shaft to fit to the arbor and drill chuck because … I CAN’T GET THIS BLASTED THING OFF! (The chuck, not my rigged doohicky)
The previous owner told me that he’d only used it as a drill press for the last however many years. I’d suspect that was a sideways clue that he’d had the same problem, but he’d also said that he did use the saw function during the earlier stage of his possession.
Anyway, anyone got any ideas as to how I can remove this here stuck chuck so that I can connect the saw blades as originally intended?
Thanks for any suggestions/solutions offered.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21371
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I assume you have removed the set screw and can see the drive shaft in the bottom of the screw hole. Is that right.idcook wrote:They say that one good turn deserves another and, as some may have noted, my initial difficulty with this Mark V chuck have returned to possibly have a hand in the machine not turning at all by way of a broken Gilmer belt.
To be completely fair that may have more to do with my decision to rig up a shaft to fit to the arbor and drill chuck because … I CAN’T GET THIS BLASTED THING OFF! (The chuck, not my rigged doohicky)
The previous owner told me that he’d only used it as a drill press for the last however many years. I’d suspect that was a sideways clue that he’d had the same problem, but he’d also said that he did use the saw function during the earlier stage of his possession.
Anyway, anyone got any ideas as to how I can remove this here stuck chuck so that I can connect the saw blades as originally intended?
Thanks for any suggestions/solutions offered.
If so, my guess is that you are fighting rust and corrosion on the shaft.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Again?
This seems to be a recurring theme with older machines that haven't been used recently. You might try the search link on the forum as I know I've read about this more than once. Usually it turns out to be a problem with corrosion (rust) or spalling (is that the right term for scratched up metal shavings jamming a chuck on the spindle?).
'55 Greenie #292284 (Mar-55), '89 SS 510 #020989, Mark VII #408551 (sold 10/14/12), SS Band Saw, (SS 500 #36063 (May-79) now gone to son-in-law as of 11-11), Magna bandsaw, Magna jointer 16185 (May-54), Magna belt sander SS28712 (Dec-82), Magna jigsaw SS4397 (Dec-78), SS biscuit joiner, Zyliss (knockoff) vise, 20+ hand planes, 60s Craftsman tablesaw, CarbaTec mini-lathe, and the usual pile of tools. Hermit of the Hills Woodworks, a hillbilly in the foothills of the Ozarks, scraping by.
OK, if you can get to the drive pulley on the back of the quill, (WARNING, do this with the power UNPLUGGED!) grab it with your left hand, and grab the chuck with your right hand.
Try twisting in either direction. If you get movement, work on that.
(Note, I've only played with the E or ER models, and they have exposed belts. But, the process is the same.) Also, make SURE the setscrew is out of the drill chuck. Squirt some penetrating oil down the setscrew hole, as well as the base of the quill, where the chuck hits it.
The tolerance on that fitting is so tight, that I've seen the chuck (or any other device mounted on the quill) move to the left, just from compressed air, behind the fitting. Also heard an audible "pop" when removing something from the quill. Clearances are TIGHT!
steve
Try twisting in either direction. If you get movement, work on that.
(Note, I've only played with the E or ER models, and they have exposed belts. But, the process is the same.) Also, make SURE the setscrew is out of the drill chuck. Squirt some penetrating oil down the setscrew hole, as well as the base of the quill, where the chuck hits it.
The tolerance on that fitting is so tight, that I've seen the chuck (or any other device mounted on the quill) move to the left, just from compressed air, behind the fitting. Also heard an audible "pop" when removing something from the quill. Clearances are TIGHT!
steve
- idcook
- Gold Member
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Wed Mar 06, 2013 4:48 pm
- Location: New York (Alley cat country), New York
The Stuck Chuck:
[ATTACH]20580[/ATTACH]
A little to the right of the flat but, basically, where it’s supposed to be … I think.
beeg — I purchased it with the chuck already installed. Have never tried to remove it until a few days ago.
charlese — the chuck is frozen to the spindel.
dusty — I’ll try to see if I can locate any sign of corrosion, but what I can see now looks pretty clean.
fiat — spalling? Interesting. Looks clean, but I hadn’t considered that.
skou — I’ll give that a shot. Will 3-in-1 oil serve the purpose?
[ATTACH]20580[/ATTACH]
A little to the right of the flat but, basically, where it’s supposed to be … I think.
beeg — I purchased it with the chuck already installed. Have never tried to remove it until a few days ago.
charlese — the chuck is frozen to the spindel.
dusty — I’ll try to see if I can locate any sign of corrosion, but what I can see now looks pretty clean.
fiat — spalling? Interesting. Looks clean, but I hadn’t considered that.
skou — I’ll give that a shot. Will 3-in-1 oil serve the purpose?
- Attachments
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- StuckChuck.jpg (200.23 KiB) Viewed 9889 times
- Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 5830
- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
I would fill the set screw hole with penetrating oil. Let is sit until the hole is empty I would then tap on the chuck lightly but firmly a few places around it and lastly on the front of it. If the chuck is still stuck I would try to pry between it and the collar with something. Again lightly is key here. Done go after the thing with a wrecking bar.
If you have a heat gun I might try that but I suspect the size of the chuck will cause the arbor to heat up with the chuck, so there won't be a great temperature difference.
If you have a heat gun I might try that but I suspect the size of the chuck will cause the arbor to heat up with the chuck, so there won't be a great temperature difference.
Ed in Tampa
Stay out of trouble!
Stay out of trouble!
- terrydowning
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1678
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
If you do wind up trying to pry against the collar; Use 2 or more evenly space tools and do your best to apply even pressure. Uneven pressure may get it stuck even further.
Removing the stuck chuck is doable.
Removing the stuck chuck is doable.
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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
I'd put it in drill press mode, attach a sanding disk to the backside spindle. Squirt in some penetrating oil through the set screw hole till it reaches the bottom of the hole. Come back a couple hours later, hold onto the chuck and grab the sanding disk and rock it back and forth. See if it's loosened up any.
BUT I'd almost bet JPG's life on it that there's a burr causing it to be stuck on the shaft.
BUT I'd almost bet JPG's life on it that there's a burr causing it to be stuck on the shaft.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob