idcook wrote:
I’m sure it will be removed, though I may have to resort to the ultimate penetration process — Let’s call it Smith & Wesson oil.
You really need to video this! Post it on YouTube and I bet it will go viral.
On a serious note, I'm really looking forward to hearing that you have the chuck off the spindle.
Don
Mark V (bought new, now sold), Model 520 (1989 510 upgraded)
Bandsaw, Jointer, and Planer
1951 Magna Engineering 10ER (restored for lathe use and sold)
When 'tapping' back on, 'hammer' against the inside 'bottom' of the chuck.
I think twisting while push/pulling will help.
If you are getting rusty oil, that is a good sign that rust is more likely the obstacle rather than a burr. Flushing/penetrating/soaking/p/p twisting - repeat would be my approach. If that 'fails', dere is de last resort!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I WAS able to tap the chuck back up the spindle, but didn’t see much change so far as how far down the spindle it had been in before.
After rotating, tapping it back down and rotating again I zapped it with some more PB, put it in the vertical, more PB, rotated and left it to do whatever it can for a spell.
All the while I could feel my mind working it’s way toward a solution to fend off this problem in the future.
It occurred to me that it isn’t the stick that’s so much the problem as how much work has to be put into undoing it. i.e. — It would be better if the chuck on "in" rather than "on" the spindle…
When this is done I’ll likely try to rig up about a 3/4" collar with a set-screw onto the spindle and connect a spindle-sized bit of bar into the chuck. That way, should I find removing the chuck a problem I’ll only have to deal with about 3/4" of removal from a collar that can be removed from the spindle when the bare spindle is needed.
Make sense?
Anyway, the meantime I’m considering renting (or buying) the fork-like thingy from AutoZone, but I’d really like to evade prying on these things. I’d rather break and replace the entire chuck than beat up the collar.
I WAS able to tap the chuck back up the spindle, but didn’t see much change so far as how far down the spindle it had been in before.
After rotating, tapping it back down and rotating again I zapped it with some more PB, put it in the vertical, more PB, rotated and left it to do whatever it can for a spell.
All the while I could feel my mind working it’s way toward a solution to fend off this problem in the future.
It occurred to me that it isn’t the stick that’s so much the problem as how much work has to be put into undoing it. i.e. — It would be better if the chuck on "in" rather than "on" the spindle…
When this is done I’ll likely try to rig up about a 3/4" collar with a set-screw onto the spindle and connect a spindle-sized bit of bar into the chuck. That way, should I find removing the chuck a problem I’ll only have to deal with about 3/4" of removal from a collar that can be removed from the spindle when the bare spindle is needed.
Make sense?
Anyway, the meantime I’m considering renting (or buying) the fork-like thingy from AutoZone, but I’d really like to evade prying on these things. I’d rather break and replace the entire chuck than beat up the collar.
I WAS able to tap the chuck back up the spindle, but didn’t see much change so far as how far down the spindle it had been in before.
After rotating, tapping it back down and rotating again I zapped it with some more PB, put it in the vertical, more PB, rotated and left it to do whatever it can for a spell.
All the while I could feel my mind working it’s way toward a solution to fend off this problem in the future.
It occurred to me that it isn’t the stick that’s so much the problem as how much work has to be put into undoing it. i.e. — It would be better if the chuck on "in" rather than "on" the spindle…
When this is done I’ll likely try to rig up about a 3/4" collar with a set-screw onto the spindle and connect a spindle-sized bit of bar into the chuck. That way, should I find removing the chuck a problem I’ll only have to deal with about 3/4" of removal from a collar that can be removed from the spindle when the bare spindle is needed.
Make sense?
Anyway, the meantime I’m considering renting (or buying) the fork-like thingy from AutoZone, but I’d really like to evade prying on these things. I’d rather break and replace the entire chuck than beat up the collar.
Almost.
Once you get it off you will see the uniqueness of the flat on that shaft.'
The 'flat' is tapered, and blind.
I do not recommend the spacer.
Once you do get it off, you will not 'store' the chuck on the spindle for long periods of time. JPW will prevent a 'reoccurrence.'
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Placing a shim between the fork thingey and the soft aluminum collar will prevent boogering the collar. Be careful to not allow the fork to booger the exposed shaft.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I’m very sure that the cause of this problem is that the PO, who’d only used it as a drill press for a long while, likely had that chuck connected to the spindle for years.
No biggie. These harrowing episodes are requiring me to become more familiar with the machine and to learn more about woodworking all at once.
I've been following this saga from the beginning. And I can't help but wonder if the previous owner mounted the drill chuck incorrectly on the shaft and as a result has created a burr or "divot" in the shaft because the set screw was not correctly tightened on the flat but on the round. Under stress (which I'll bet occurred while as a drill press for many years) the set-screw will butcher up the shaft keeping the chuck from being removed.
Solution? I don't have a miracle solution other than what has been suggested already. Just an observation.
Good luck with your efforts to remove it to really find out why it stuck.
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1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
That idea had occurred to me, but the chuck was really only a tad out of alignment to the flat of the spindle. Maybe enough to cause a problem but, to the naked eye, there didn’t seem to be anything visible in the immediate region… EXCEPT, oddly enough, though the chuck is rotating more or less freely at the point to which I could move it, it is putting up a heck of a fight to get past that point.
Almost as if the problem lay very near to where the top or bottom of the chuck now sits.
Of course that’s all novice-level speculation. If there’s a burr it could be anywhere in there for all I can tell.
This PB has definitely added some amount of free movement, but not yet enough to get past whatever is stopping it from moving further toward the end of the spindle.