Bandsaw Blade Tracking Adjustments Etc.

[caleb]

I backed the cool blocks off all the way to make sure that they weren't influencing the blade in any way. the pictures a just bad sorry.
If I put the two bearings back in the lower guide then the blade stays straight. That seems to be a work around, and at tension and speed of a blade I would rather know that the bandsaw is not under any undue strain.

To me it seems like the angle of the dangle is off. maybe the upper wheel is out of alignment? Did I measure it correctly in my pics. should I measure it with tension on the blade?


Caleb

[beeg]

Try a DIFFERENT blade.

[algale]

This was not easy for me to describe. How would you guys have done it?

Caleb

You described it fine. I'd describe it as ... messed up (except I wouldn't say messed) .

I don't know what is causing the twist but I'd say more pictures are in order. I'd like to see the tension gauge, the blade relationship to upper autotrack bearing (near the tension gauge) and a shot of the whole dang thing straight on with the cover removed.

You can't post video here but a few of us have posted videos to YouTube and linked the vids to the forum so that the members can see/hear a problem. BUT if you do so, I wouldn't run that thing off of the head stock; just turn it slowly by hand.

(By the way, the upper wheel isn't symmetrical front to back and can be installed backwards on its needle bearings. I can't tell from your pix whether yours is installed correctly and I'm not sure if that would explain the blade twist.).

Al

[caleb]

(By the way, the upper wheel isn't symmetrical front to back and can be installed backwards on its needle bearings. I can't tell from your pix whether yours is installed correctly and I'm not sure if that would explain the blade twist.).

I had the same thought so i checked the casting marks on the side of the wheel with the bottom wheel and they are on the same way.

I even matched the blade marks on the wheel when I grease the pin bearings to make sure I was putting it back on the same way it came off.

I have been a little frightened of this thing now for a while. so running it with the cover of really creeps me out.

Caleb

[algale]

I had the same thought so i checked the casting marks on the side of the wheel with the bottom wheel and they are on the same way.

I even matched the blade marks on the wheel when I grease the pin bearings to make sure I was putting it back on the same way it came off.

I have been a little frightened of this thing now for a while. so running it with the cover of really creeps me out.

Caleb

DON'T RUN IT WITH THE COVER OFF, just spin it by hand, slowly.

[dusty]

I had the same thought so i checked the casting marks on the side of the wheel with the bottom wheel and they are on the same way.

I even matched the blade marks on the wheel when I grease the pin bearings to make sure I was putting it back on the same way it came off.

I have been a little frightened of this thing now for a while. so running it with the cover of really creeps me out.

Caleb

Give it the respect that it deserves but don't be frightened by it. When I run without the covers, I stand off to one side when I first turn it on. If the blade is going to come off, that is when it is most likely to happen.

If you look at the back side of the wheel, you will see a series of shallow holes. These were drilled to balance the wheel when it was assembled. Those holes should be on the inside (backside) of the wheel.

PS: Wheel balance has nothing to do with the problem being discussed in this threat. My Bad.

[caleb]

I just checked a picture I have of the upper wheel and I don't see any holes.

ok so this was me being stupid over lunch trying to figure out how to put a straight edge on the upper wheel please only laugh a little at this newbie.

oh hell laugh all you want I can hear you. love the internet.

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[dusty]

I backed the cool blocks off all the way to make sure that they weren't influencing the blade in any way. the pictures a just bad sorry.
If I put the two bearings back in the lower guide then the blade stays straight. That seems to be a work around, and at tension and speed of a blade I would rather know that the bandsaw is not under any undue strain.

To me it seems like the angle of the dangle is off. maybe the upper wheel is out of alignment? Did I measure it correctly in my pics. should I measure it with tension on the blade?


Caleb

If you take the blade off and lay it on a bench or on the floor, do you see any twists in the blade. Laying on a bench, totally unobstructed in any way, the blade should be perpendicular to the bench top.

If the blade is twisted, if you pinch it between a thumb and finger and slowly pull it through your fingers, you'd be able to feel the twist (maybe better than you can see it).

Again, unobstructed by tracking bearings and cool blocks, the blade should come off the upper wheel and travel down to the lower wheel with NO visible twist (even without tension).

[caleb]

Without tension there is no twist. it only comes when I tension the blade up and turn the upper wheel in a clockwise direction. If I turn the wheel counter clockwise(reverse) it twists the other way.

Thanks for the quick reply's

[dusty]

Without tension there is no twist. it only comes when I tension the blade up and turn the upper wheel in a clockwise direction. If I turn the wheel counter clockwise(reverse) it twists the other way.

Thanks for the quick reply's

Do you mean it twists on the other side of the wheels OR the twist rotates in the other direction.


If the twist moves to the other side of the wheel (as the blade off loads from the top wheel) - it would make me suspect the wheel somehow.

Do you have a second wide blade?